Builds Shipwreck

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Looking good mate
 
Stuff, I'd love something like that!
 
tonight was go backward, I guess... oh well, now is the time to fix this - not be embarrassed by it later

The transfer case is leaking - I guess "blind bolt" to Jeep doesn't, actually mean, separate from the fluid.... so it was leaking out the bolt... and from that cute cast pan. So I pulled it apart

but first, a congratulations - the locking hubs fit.... a bit tight, but they work and I'm glad that saga is done.



so there is A drop on the floor... schmucking gall darn it.



and apart it comes


and then problem 2 arose.... I thought, when I put it together last time that it didn't seem the male shaft was long enough for the female hole.... I measured it, and I was right... it's just a bit too short


that's a problem, though, I need at least 1/4" but it seems the best way to do this would be to take the adapter completely apart and re-fit it. Have I mentioned there are times when it would be really nice to have a lathe (again)?

schmuckity schmuck schmuck schmuck ah well, I know people so I can do this.
 
in the end, I simply cut it apart and pressed it back together a bit narrower




I shouldn't show this since I don't know how to weld (heh)




commercial break... the color flat olive/brown


and finally getting to the driveshaft hoop/divot to allow full drop




sure looks like a shipwreck to me :flipoff2: of course, the judging comes from the short bus - so there is that :cookie:




now that the paint's dry

you can tell I narrowed it because it's now black ;)






and it looks like I need to take just a bit out of this cross member


this actually is a red letter moment... for the first time since I owned the vehicle there is a direct connection from the crank to the front axle
 
time to put it together











and start on the rear


and there's the thought process... center a receiver, to the right one of two tow clevises, then the tail light then reverse lights


I'm going to put hidden structure around the tail gate so that I can hang a 42" tire, a cooler, and a couple 5 gallon gas cans... I should probably put a reverse camera rather then a rear view mirror because seeing around the tire will be problematic. Anyway, more on that another day.

and weld a bit then let it cool
 
Some fantastic work happening in this thread... I've got a long way to go, but this type of stuff keeps me in the shop learning. Thanks for sharing!
 
finished welding the fenders






and with only maybe one wave.... I can fix that pretty easily

metaltech points to an article on Pirate (which does a nice job of laying out how these go together) but, given Pirate's penchant for pretty welds - it's a bit ironic that those fenders had so many waves that it was either in a parade or would make a sailor seasick... lol
 
it's like grouse hunting, you can't shoot at the bird - you have to lead it... same with a build you head to where you want to go and if something happens, doesn't work, or something better comes along you adjust.

The color I got from Summit... it looks really close to the color of mr. jits '40 - and the more I see that color the less I like it. I'm really, really considering getting the color you painted yours... which would fit with my history of either light blue or tan FJ40s... did you go full flat or is it a matte finish?
 
SuperBuickGuy said:
it's like grouse hunting, you can't shoot at the bird - you have to lead it... same with a build you head to where you want to go and if something happens, doesn't work, or something better comes along you adjust.

The color I got from Summit... it looks really close to the color of mr. jits '40 - and the more I see that color the less I like it. I'm really, really considering getting the color you painted yours... which would fit with my history of either light blue or tan FJ40s... did you go full flat or is it a matte finish?
Click to expand...
If I were to do it again (and it looks like I will be soon), I'd go with the dune beige, the robins egg blue, or personal preference, mustard yellow. The sage green on my 40 looked good, but in retrospect is too "Icon". The original colors are too good to pass up.
 
I really like and respect what Icon does (heck, I own not one, but two vehicles that are what Icon did - see picture below) - but I'm 100% with you on that, I don't want mine to look like theirs. I also don't want a (another) dark colored vehicle simply because I don't like getting burned when I touch it. Years ago I had a flat-bottom jet boat that was yellow with a black rail. I don't know how many times I'd get burned by that blasted rail...

the other iconic car


I like cars that look true to what the original designers did, but updated with a badass mechanical. Still, the balance I like is where it looks like something was done with the suspension but takes a second look to realize that it's a substantial change. An example is swapping sides on the HP Dana 44. I didn't have to - it really wasn't more work - but keeping the differential on the passenger side follows my build philosophy... and will get me all sorts of snickers when I hear someone authoritatively say that's a stock FJ40 front end.
 
That's pretty clever
 
I'm concerned about the exhaust going through those holes. While welding the frame has stiffened the frame, you may still get a little frame flex which the pipe may hit on the hole. The other thing is that your motor is likely to vibrate and move, in guessing around a half inch as it applies torque to the drivetrains. If that pipe hits the hole, it could crack your headers.
 
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