Thanks, at a glance and online they appear like a good middle ground between stock (LJ in my case) and a full on race seat. I need to keep folding seats for a few more years. I appreciate your critical eye, which is why I asked.
Builds Shipwreck
- Thread starter SuperBuickGuy
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #502
not much done tonight
pulled the rear axle out and stripped the running gear from the frame
one thing I need to fix is this - these are too short, no, it'd probably never be a problem but it's so easy to fix now...
'
took the front axle to have the gears installed... ever onward
pulled the rear axle out and stripped the running gear from the frame
one thing I need to fix is this - these are too short, no, it'd probably never be a problem but it's so easy to fix now...
'took the front axle to have the gears installed... ever onward
What is the driver's side lower link hitting/ resting on?
- Thread starter
- #504
In things to come... rear shocks - King 14" (so tempted to do 16" since at least 1 1/2" is safety margin)
and this
A Dakota digital dash. The reason behind this is several fold - but the biggest one is by shortening the output on the transfer case, I'm committed to an electronic speed sensor...
and this
A Dakota digital dash. The reason behind this is several fold - but the biggest one is by shortening the output on the transfer case, I'm committed to an electronic speed sensor...
- Thread starter
- #505
it's hitting on the bottom of the mount - I have to do a bunch of clearancing on those mounts because they also don't clear the zerk fittings ... ah well, it's a lot easier to remove metal than it is to add it...
- Thread starter
- #506
for those who think I'm perfect, let me dispel that notion right now
same number, right? yeah, wrong side of the post..... yet that wasn't the worst of it
notice how I have the center just to the left of the yoke? it's 3/4" off... oops
so my day was redoing this
you can see where it was, now where it is... and yes, I'm boxing this and triangulating it a bit more
and finally to what I started out doing - which was finish welding
and a bit of a start on another table
same number, right? yeah, wrong side of the post..... yet that wasn't the worst of it
notice how I have the center just to the left of the yoke? it's 3/4" off... oops
so my day was redoing this
you can see where it was, now where it is... and yes, I'm boxing this and triangulating it a bit more
and finally to what I started out doing - which was finish welding
and a bit of a start on another table
- Thread starter
- #507
I know this doesn't seem LC related, but it is... I need a way to move the body - and I also need a fabrication bench that has a lower height then the 36 or so inch height on my current table
these came from my brake - I don't do stamping, and I needed to be able to swap dies so I took these off and bought a bed for my brake... of course, throwing away 400 lbs of flat, steel plate simply isn't in my genetic makeup.
so here's the basic shape...
these came from my brake - I don't do stamping, and I needed to be able to swap dies so I took these off and bought a bed for my brake... of course, throwing away 400 lbs of flat, steel plate simply isn't in my genetic makeup.
so here's the basic shape...
What do you think it will weigh when your finished, there's a fair bit heavy steel in this build?
- Thread starter
- #509
500#
- Thread starter
- #510
So I really haven't gotten much done on the '40 this week. In a couple weeks I'm headed out to the NW Overland Rally, so I need to focus on getting the tunes situation solved in my H3. I mention this here because this might be the solution for the '40. I was thinking of using a Surface to control the stereo, engine computers, provide navigation, and control the HAM radio... Technology moves fast enough that I think I can do all of it from an integrated stereo...
the Pioneer 4100 NEX
simply put, it's a display and stereo. It integrates with either Android Lollipop or iPhones, and allows you to do anything on the stereo that your iPhone or Android can do. Because it's both wired and bluetooth (it has two USB ports), you can use it as a display...
got the wiring, Painless has a heck of a deal going. you get $50 back on their wiring harnesses, along with, if you buy from Summit, another $50 of Summitbucks... that's $100 off
for a water-resistent (they say "proof" but it's not) wiring harness
I'm such a geek - getting this made me way too excited
As I said before, I'm shortening the transfer case, at the expense of a mechanical speedo... given my propensity to speed, I figured it'd be a good idea to have a speedometer. I still think GPS isn't good enough to be reliable, so electronic it is.
If I were still a bachelor, this would be my coffee table - I apologize to the too-sensitive-ones for a sports car peeking its lights out in this picture, I'll do better to keep it out of further pictures
waiting on wheels, but it's pretty much done
the Pioneer 4100 NEX
simply put, it's a display and stereo. It integrates with either Android Lollipop or iPhones, and allows you to do anything on the stereo that your iPhone or Android can do. Because it's both wired and bluetooth (it has two USB ports), you can use it as a display...
got the wiring, Painless has a heck of a deal going. you get $50 back on their wiring harnesses, along with, if you buy from Summit, another $50 of Summitbucks... that's $100 off
for a water-resistent (they say "proof" but it's not) wiring harness
I'm such a geek - getting this made me way too excited
As I said before, I'm shortening the transfer case, at the expense of a mechanical speedo... given my propensity to speed, I figured it'd be a good idea to have a speedometer. I still think GPS isn't good enough to be reliable, so electronic it is.
If I were still a bachelor, this would be my coffee table - I apologize to the too-sensitive-ones for a sports car peeking its lights out in this picture, I'll do better to keep it out of further pictures
waiting on wheels, but it's pretty much done
I think in dash decks are going to go the way of the dodo bird. Small tablets for a stereo are far more powerful, cheaper, take up much less dash space, removable so it doesnt get stolen or rained on, and when it gets old and out of date you just put a new tablet in its place. Check it out, its pretty cool what people are doing with tablets and they seem to be a great option for 40s.
- Thread starter
- #512
I must have been channeling you, I bought a Surface 3 yesterday (despite my saying I wasn't going to). My first impressions have been quite positive.... not 100% mind you, because for some reason it won't fully charge, and typing on your lap (like you can do with a laptop) is impossible since there's no support to hold the back up)... but, I like it. The fully charge issue has two solutions and I'm trying the first one as I type. The back-support issue... I dunno.... what I like the most about it is it seamlessly attaches to my phone via bluetooth.
I think you're right, but I think this style of stereo will be that last hurrah - it uses Android Auto and iPhone to both display content and control both the stereo and phone. I like listening to my CDs, and until they get a file compression that doesn't audibly change the music - I'll always want one in a car.... plus, when zombies attack (or people get lost in the woods), I need to watch my DVDs
now to come up with a clever yet simple way to integrate it into the dash.
- Thread starter
- #513
for the record, I bought the double din player for my H3 to replace the non-displaying, cd eating unit that's in there. The putting it in another vehicle would occur after I sell the H3 (years from now)...
*edit
the thing that keeps me from going all plug in is my laziness to load all my CDs onto a computer. The problem will, to an extent, solve over time because I buy all my CDs from Amazon - an Amazon provides a CD AND already-stored cloud access to all of the music that I've bought from them....
*edit
the thing that keeps me from going all plug in is my laziness to load all my CDs onto a computer. The problem will, to an extent, solve over time because I buy all my CDs from Amazon - an Amazon provides a CD AND already-stored cloud access to all of the music that I've bought from them....
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #514
cool, this worked
the area in red I'm cutting out and making another glovebox, but this one will have all of the electronics inside with cooling fans and the ability to seal in case of flooding. On the front, the panel will be removeable, but it will have a surface 3 or simply a touch screen with a computer inside that does mapping, music, HAM, and the computer controls for the motor. That said, this is a work in progress. I may start this thing on a carb then update and upgrade over the course of time.... but for now, there will be a box here on the front will be control switches for lights and the HVAC system.
the area in red I'm cutting out and making another glovebox, but this one will have all of the electronics inside with cooling fans and the ability to seal in case of flooding. On the front, the panel will be removeable, but it will have a surface 3 or simply a touch screen with a computer inside that does mapping, music, HAM, and the computer controls for the motor. That said, this is a work in progress. I may start this thing on a carb then update and upgrade over the course of time.... but for now, there will be a box here on the front will be control switches for lights and the HVAC system.
rusty_tlc
Dain Bramaged Member
Just a suggestion, you seem to be pretty techie, why not seal the electronics compartment up water tight and use a peltier junction device to move the heat out?
I don't have your budget but I did score an old Coleman 12v cooler. I scavenged the peltier junction along with the heat sinks and fans. I plan to mount my HAM radio in an ammo can and use the cooler from the Coleman to move heat out of the can while still keeping it hermetic. I plan to use mil spec circular connectors to pass the feeds, as a bonus the metal cover caps will make the radio EMP proof when not in use.
I don't have your budget but I did score an old Coleman 12v cooler. I scavenged the peltier junction along with the heat sinks and fans. I plan to mount my HAM radio in an ammo can and use the cooler from the Coleman to move heat out of the can while still keeping it hermetic. I plan to use mil spec circular connectors to pass the feeds, as a bonus the metal cover caps will make the radio EMP proof when not in use.
- Thread starter
- #516
I'm sorry I gave you that impression, I'm anything but - but I have several friends who are e-geniuses, what you saw was my poor reflection of their abilities... I saw this set up (the water proof box) on my grandpa's IH and always thought it was neat because of its simplicity and backyard ingenuity. I'm more aiming for water-resistant, but also doing it because it makes it a lot harder to steal.
- Thread starter
- #517
back to a bit of work.... a reminder
at least they were cheap
so... there will be some rebending...
ah well, eventually they'll also be blackened.
at least they were cheap
so... there will be some rebending...
ah well, eventually they'll also be blackened.
rusty_tlc
Dain Bramaged Member
Theft protection is a motivator in mounting my HAM in an ammo box.
I like the idea of a double din mobile PC but really can't justify it for my FJ40. If I hit the lottery the 98 UZJ100 might get that kind of love.
I like the idea of a double din mobile PC but really can't justify it for my FJ40. If I hit the lottery the 98 UZJ100 might get that kind of love.
- Thread starter
- #519
One very annoying thing about SAR is that you leave your vehicle in places where the tweekers and the methheads roam... so you find their lost buddy, and get your car broken into or stolen while you're up rescuing him... this has happened about twice a year for awhile now... we do get reimbursed by the State for losses, but who replaces the year or two it took to build the vehicle?
anyway, by making it look stock(ish), and taking the shiney bobbles away, I hope to at least reduce the number of druggies who would find it attractive...
tonight's fun
bent tube
for door bars
the decision point is do I then bend the tube down in front of the fuel tank? thinking that those would then work well as seat supports... but then I'd have to pull the cage to get the fuel tank out...
anyway, by making it look stock(ish), and taking the shiney bobbles away, I hope to at least reduce the number of druggies who would find it attractive...
tonight's fun
bent tube
for door bars
the decision point is do I then bend the tube down in front of the fuel tank? thinking that those would then work well as seat supports... but then I'd have to pull the cage to get the fuel tank out...
Frankly I wouldn't put those tubes in, they look cool but I think they will get in the way too much to be worth it. I guess if you plan on rolling it hard they will be needed though. I had a tough time figuring out seat mounts, eventually I made stronger mounts but in the same position as the factory.