Builds Shipwreck (1 Viewer)

[SuperBuickGuy]

I suspect you'll be done first.

 

[chappysfj40]

Hi ya.

Can you explaine what you mean by compression in this application. I guess I am not getting it.

notice that everything is in compression? while I do trust my welds, I also know that it's really easy to make it doubly secure by compressing the forces



thanks for lurking [/QUOTE]

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

look at each joint and where the forces are directed... example
this joint

close up


if you look at the direction of the expected force, it goes up towards the frame and back. By putting the cross member behind the bracket, I'm directing the forces up and into the frame - in a manner of speaking, the weld simply keeps things in place. I've seen this joint fail on other vehicles when there is nothing behind the bracket because it tries to tear off the frame (sometimes successfully). In this case, the force travels either up or back- - if it travels back the forces then go through the cross member, back through the arms and back into the ground... nothing is held in shear. While it is true that the upper mount on the front axle is held in shear, if it breaks it's not deadly merely annoying.

and that's the bit on the upper arm too, it's not perpendicular to the direction of travel, thus not all the force is directed straight back, rather it triangulates to the frame and puts some of its load (other than rotational) on the lower arm.

 

[chappysfj40]

Holly crap. Thats deep. its the way I would have done it but I would not know why.


Thanks for the explanation.

Cheers

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

any time, thanks for asking

back to welding.... some more.... with the same amount of "looks like I did something"

when I did the mock up - some (this blog is simulcast to other blogs) - they were concerned the motor mounts wouldn't be strong enough... this should give them peace and let them get back to their orca *






and yet others, who normally are focused on rust,* were concerned about the shock towers.... this isn't finished, but it's a downpayment on how strong the entire structure will be





anyway, I've flipped the frame over and will continue on it tomorrow night....

*I appreciate, kidding aside, that people pay attention - while it's not often I miss something, there have been a few times where what I missed was pretty important... so really, thx for lurking.

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

a bit more work




now I just need to make the slots a bit bigger

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

bought some extra doors so that I can make one set half-doors


cross member now done


added a winch plate


and did buckets for the rear springs..... now a cross member and it's done... then grinding, then painting... lol done.

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

so more work accomplished


the optical illusion on this is pretty cool, that brace is nearly vertical




just enough clearance for steering


and then some quality time welding links

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

plugging away.... but I'm getting pretty close to paint, just rear shock mounts (which will be pretty easy)
I cheated in the lay out


doesn't look level, yet it is


when tacking on, don't weld the removable bit


couple extra braces in front


and a brace for the steering box


and welded links


I also got grinding done on the top of the frame.... this thing is getting a bit heavy to flip over....

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

Believe it or not, I'm getting close to starting the final mechanical assembly....
shock mount


drill through

I observed something interesting. I have a 3/8" B&D corded drill and my makita got too warm so I went to use the B&D... not 50% of the power of the cordless Makita... though I may have injured it drilling 4 2" holes

welded in


My corvette dolly works as a FJ40 dolly as well


and some green on the inside of the frame rails


I would have gone with black however there's like a month-wait... and I'll spray the frame black which will cover the green nicely. Sunday the plan is to paint most of the frame. I can't do all of it because I'm not done with the rear shocks... so I'll tape that off and paint it later... I can paint it under the vehicle, so it's really not a big deal...

anyway, shipwreck is getting there

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

well I goofed.... I read the instructions. The KBS coating that I'm using has a main coat and a top coat for stuff exposed to sunlight. Not only that but it uses its own thinner (and I'm brushing this on). So no paint this weekend (even though it'd be perfect weather for doing so since it is supposed to be 90* on Sunday). Oh well, I'll finish up the cage, etch it, and the corners so I can paint all of it at once. Maybe I'll even make the frame perfect rather than close enough... I have plenty to do (such as finish the spring mounts on the rear diff and put it together).

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

Today's fun... etching the frame
but first, how to turn the frame over... I could drive to Portand (7 hours there and back) and borrow my dad's rotisserie or I could make one or I could hum a few bars and do something that should work




and it works


yeah, so I didn't get it perfectly balanced... oh well
so then the phosphate acid bath begins




since I plan on painting the cage at the same time... it's time to remove it




I guess I'll post pictures of the actual removal tomorrow... and of what I'm going to do with the paint on the tub (once I decide what I'm going to do - I need to remove the red because it's not adhering well enough to paint over.... but I'm loathe to strip it)

 

[White Stripe]

So I guess you decided the seat mounts were good as is? How does the metal etching primer process work? Im not much of a paint n body guy.

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

I don't know what I'm doing with the driver's side.... the tentative plan is I'm putting a safe under the seat and mounting the seat to the safe.... seemed like a safe plan (hehehe - get it, "safe" plan? ). Of course, that means identifying and buying the safe - and that is its own issue since the ones that are the right size are house safes (read, not waterproof and/or has electronics to open the door)

But it does inform on the reason I'm painting the cage rather then powder coating it.

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

and I'm thinking about building my own safe... I don't think a drawer would be able to fully open; and I think a door isn't weather-tight enough. I'm thinking something in a clamshell out of 1/4" plate.

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

also, in other news, I need a clever way of removing the dash (from door post to door post).... I want the entire dash to be removeable to aid in fixing and to make it easier to seal it against the weather and people.

 

[rusty_tlc]

and I'm thinking about building my own safe... I don't think a drawer would be able to fully open; and I think a door isn't weather-tight enough. I'm thinking something in a clamshell out of 1/4" plate.

You might want to look at how ammo cans are sealed, very effective and time proven. It's a basic O-ring seal with a compression latch.

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

You might want to look at how ammo cans are sealed, very effective and time proven. It's a basic O-ring seal with a compression latch.

they are, and the howitzer shell boxes are even roughly the right size - the problem is they're stamped steel (thin), hinging them to open in a manner like the stock box, and the space isn't square.

 

[rusty_tlc]

they are, and the howitzer shell boxes are even roughly the right size - the problem is they're stamped steel (thin), hinging them to open in a manner like the stock box, and the space isn't square.

I wasn't suggesting you use an ammo box just use the seal design. Be right back.

 

[rusty_tlc]

.250 plate sides. .375 top, .25 wide slot .125 deep. .125 dia o ring in the groove compression clamps and lock hasp to seal.