Builds Shipwreck (9 Viewers)

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POR-15, great stuff, but not UV stable. To weld after is a pain, not sprayable (yeah, I know others have had success, but with this one I didn't have any success other than to be spotted black for a month).
Eastwood - UV stable, but not as tough as POR-15 since it's basically just enamel, sprayable. Because it's just paint, welding on the frame later wouldn't be a big deal

KBS paint, POR-15 tough and UV stable, sprayable, same weld issues as POR 15
Magnet paint - POR-15 tough, not UV stable, sprayable, but comes in a huge array of colors, same weld issues as POR 15


okay, so that's my research - thoughts? Frame painting my FJ-40, so sunlight will hit it. Magnet paint makes the comment that if sunlight does hit it, the black turns to a pewter color (which, I'm not sure, would be a bad thing).
 
SuperBuickGuy said:
POR-15, great stuff, but not UV stable. To weld after is a pain, not sprayable (yeah, I know others have had success, but with this one I didn't have any success other than to be spotted black for a month).
Eastwood - UV stable, but not as tough as POR-15 since it's basically just enamel, sprayable. Because it's just paint, welding on the frame later wouldn't be a big deal

KBS paint, POR-15 tough and UV stable, sprayable, same weld issues as POR 15
Magnet paint - POR-15 tough, not UV stable, sprayable, but comes in a huge array of colors, same weld issues as POR 15


okay, so that's my research - thoughts? Frame painting my FJ-40, so sunlight will hit it. Magnet paint makes the comment that if sunlight does hit it, the black turns to a pewter color (which, I'm not sure, would be a bad thing).
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How bout galvanize it? Ive heard its only like 300 bucks
 
Installed the new springs



and they may be wrong, I ordered them with a 4" compression and 8" drop for a total of 14 inches (plus one inch on either end for safety sake). I think they reversed those numbers


and with a 4" lift spring in back


it's not I couldn't run it 4" taller, I actually designed it so I had some flexibilty; but the taller it is, the less stable it is. Fortunately, it's just a spring issue so I can swap springs for free to dial in the ride height (which, actually is the reason I went with filthy motorsports)... need to call them anyway to get rear shocks... that is if metal tech calls me back with a status on my front roll cage. Don't know what's happening with them...

and I worked on the box
 
well, the news is I get the cage tomorrow... so tonight was a bunch of minor tasks
I needed to finish the hole for the shifter. My first FJ40 had its shifter in the location about where this one is; and it has this really neat trick - if you went through a puddle, you'd have a geyser through that hole.... which was pretty funny when one of my friends was riding with me, however, a cute girl that I took on a date didn't find it amusing at all. Personally, I thought it was pretty cool how they would get drenched and not a drop would get on me - I attribute their dislike to their misunderstanding of how cool physics is.


so I have fixed the hole and once a rubber boot is on the shifters, all will be good


I fixed a hole I created in fitting the transfer case


with paint


so the holes are plugged and I could spend more quality time on the box... looks the same? believe it or not it's completely moved - still not happy with the location and I'm questioning whether or not it's going to give me too tall of a riding position


gratuitous shot of the front suspension


first of the permanent steering mounts - stainless tube is probably overkill, but it's what I had in 2" ID pipe.
 
SBG PSA
I'm not naming names, this is a general statement.

If you sell products, sell anything, do not lie about delivery. If you say "I'll send it Friday" you either send the part Friday or you send an email Friday saying the bad news along with when you expect it to be sent. Do not compound your error by ignoring phone calls, it only gets worse if you do.

Yes, some might be upset - but if you are honest, I may do business with you again... if not, not only will I not do business (because you're untrustworthy) but I will also be sure to let my friends know that you should be avoided. Schmidt happens, it does. No one expects perfection (we would certainly like it). If the customer gets upset and says bad words - that is not your problem, that is theirs - it's a general rule that the ones that get most upset are the ones who have the least control of their lives (and who screw up exponentially more than you just did).

In that vein, if your computer program screws up the order - repeat after me "it is not the customer's fault" it is your fault for picking lousy software.

that is all.
 
SuperBuickGuy said:
SBG PSA
I'm not naming names, this is a general statement.

In that vein, if your computer program screws up the order - repeat after me "it is not the customer's fault" it is your fault for picking lousy software.

that is all.
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More and more, less people take responsibility for their actions. Sadly I fear accountability is becoming a lost art form.

That being said: I've been lurking for a while and love following your build. Thanks for taking time to share!!
 
07240-lr-jpg.1076120


so I'm thinking about these lights (suggestion from elsewhere, but I'm not going to pollute someone else's thread with this discussion). However, they are $175.00 a pair (ouch)....

I'm also concerned they aren't bright enough, I don't want lights that suggest to the person that they stop, I want lights that are so bright that they will incinerate them if they get too close.

Also, in lights. I put side-roof lights on my H3 and I think I'm going to do the same-ish thing on my FJ40. I can't believe how often I use those lights on and off road. My thought is either replace the side markers with LEDs or blend in larger lights. For side marking, I'm probably going to use Jeep jk mirrors that will have signal and markers contained in them.



but I'm open to more suggestions.
 
I would just use stock tail light housings and put bright led bulbs in them, you can't go wrong with the look of the stockers. I don't think your 40 is military looking enough for those military lights to look good. As far as mirrors go, I would go with stock 40 mirrors as well. I don't think the jeep mirrors will look period correct. Too much modern looking type stuff on a 40 makes it more fjcruiserish rather than fj40ish. Kinda like putting square tail lights on a vette.
 
I think you're right on the tail light, but I'd say they're not square enough. Problem with the stockers is twofold, there is going to be a bar that wraps around the corner from where the flares are - and they'll take 1/2 the space that normally would be lights; and I want flush mount lights that aren't exposed to the elements. To that end, I'm going to create storage boxes on the back half of the wheelwell - ostensibly to protect the tail light wiring, but also to create speaker boxes for the stereo.

As for the mirrors, I don't know - if I don't find what I like, I'll simply build my own. I like heated mirrors because of the safety they bring when you're out on a mission in the middle of the night. I also want signals in the mirror housings and/or functional flood lights. I plan on having both half-doors and full doors for this and the mirrors will mount to both. I've done the mirror on the windshield and simply don't like them.

I do my best to preserve the style, but form follows function
 
carrying on with the last picture, I built a stainless plate in the shape of the stock mount. I'll put o-rings between the column and the tube to seal it, and seal the mount to the firewall


I should grind it to make it pretty, but honestly I simply don't care.


time to start test fitting some electronics. I think I'm going with the Dakota digital dash (especially since I am using an electronic speed sender)... so I don't know how involved I'll get with radio gear. I'll obviously have a CB, a HAM radio, a radio and some kind of navigation (which informs why I needed more room behind the dash).

 
I finally got my roll cage from Metal Tech, I must of misunderstood - when he said Friday, he meant "a" Friday... ah well, alls well when I get the parts - and honestly they were worth waiting for.



bonus post - if you run a LS motor and the 'book' calls for a PF48 filter, this is the interchange that GM recommends now (on the left).


first I thought "okay, I'll cut it out... then I thought "dumbass" why not simply slice the pillar and weld it to the plate? one missing bit was there are not backing plates for this, so I need to solve that before this actually hits the road




so one thing I don't like but I don't think I can change is I wish the bars bent out at the door post.. still, I don't think there's enough material there to actually get my dies on it to push it so I'll leave it...


I will add door bars and a lower-dash bar. I may even run braces to the coil-over mounts from the roll bar... anyway, this weekend will be a fun-filled time sitting in classes to learn how to save people who get in over their heads in the outdoors - so this has to be put back on the back burner for a couple days.
 
SuperBuickGuy said:
07240-lr-jpg.1076120


........


but I'm open to more suggestions.
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I'm going with the cheap oval LED lights. They are easy to change and can be picked up at any truck stop for a few bucks. That way when I bust one backing into a rock it will be cheap and easy to fix. But that's just based on my wheeling style.
41ddm3G74kL.jpg
 
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