chappohj47
Chappo Built
She's looking good mate keep it up
Builds Shipwreck
- Thread starter SuperBuickGuy
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #442
Starting to order coatings.... I got Durabak for the under body and KBS paint for the frame, links, etc.... still not 100% sure what I'm going to do on the inside (whether just paint it body color before I put sound deadener on, or I go with something more durable (I'm thinking I'm going to carpet the interior with removeable sections)....
Make sure your doors close b4 you weld in the cage tubes-don't ask how I learned to do this. Also durabak sucks from my experience. It chips fairly easy. I would go with raptor or something of that caliber. Make sure you cover all the spot welded seems or it will rust out badly. Im not a fan of spray on liners on cruisers or any truck, usually moisture finds its way underneath it somehow and rust spreads terribly.
- Thread starter
- #444
I won't ask, but I did give a "d'oh" in your honor. I understand that I have to watch out for the window crank, and the bolts that hold the roof rails to the windshield, I'll add "door" to the list. I seriously considered going through the dash with the roll bar, but that is such a pain to do right and the cage can't be removed once its in place. On the car I did that before (cut an oval slot in the dash and fed the bar through), full weld was actually a class requirement - but I'm not racing this. What I do need to figure out is how to tie this to the frame in a manner that doesn't rattle or squeak. It is a good thing I have other things to do this weekend, it'll give me a chance to ponder how to do this.
I plan on sealing the underside of the tub before I coat, and everywhere that will have the opportunity for rock assault will be coated with the KBS coating rather than the durabak. I used the durabak on roof of my wife's JK and liked its stability and how well it flowed out. Thus, the underside of the floor and the firewall get this coating (I'm not doing another black underside on a vehicle I expect to work on - trying to find an oil leak then a water leak on my Corvette on race day was beyond annoying). Wheelwells get KBS, which will be a new experience for me. It's supposed to be as tough as POR15 but UV stable...
- Thread starter
- #445
hmmm... funny thought, since I'm building a box for the inner wheelwell on the tub (to protect the tail light wiring), perhaps I'll simply build it as a liner and in stainless...
rusty_tlc
Dain Bramaged Member
The best interior I ever had in a 40 was a mat in the cargo area made out of 1/2" conveyor belt and front floor mats made out of the same material. Very easy to remove for cleaning, added sound deading overall, and some heat insulation on the fire wall and the cargo area over the exhaust. This one upgrade I will make to my current FJ40 if I can find a source for material.
jstncse
Crawling over something
The 1/2" horse stall mats from tractor supply work great for that.
- Thread starter
- #448
Someday I'm going to build a (should say "another") boonie basher... this one isn't it. It gets carpet, a/c, etc. It really is meant to be ICON turned up to 11 by running a larger tire, air compressor, welder, decent water capacity, built-in work lights, converter...
and I actually thought I had the rig for doing this - a 2002 extra cab 4x4 s-10. it really was perfect, salvage title, needed the suspension gone through, 4.3, auto... pull the t-case out and put a 208 transfer case and Toyota small truck axles under it... but alas, someone saved it from that fate by offering me more than it was worth to me.
at this moment the decision process is how far I want to go with the dana 300. at this moment, I've only convinced myself that a billet cover, and novak 32 spline output is all I need to do. It would be nice to do 4:1, but around here, rocks really aren't the staple they are south of the Oregon border... snow is its primary diet, along with sand and mud.... so I am pondering that issue.
and the tail light issue - it's like the Supreme Court said "We know it when we see it," what those lights will be are still ill-defined. I like the idea of easy, truck-stop lights - but they just aren't bright enough (and I think they look cheap too - which isn't a bad thing, but not this thing).
and I actually thought I had the rig for doing this - a 2002 extra cab 4x4 s-10. it really was perfect, salvage title, needed the suspension gone through, 4.3, auto... pull the t-case out and put a 208 transfer case and Toyota small truck axles under it... but alas, someone saved it from that fate by offering me more than it was worth to me.
at this moment the decision process is how far I want to go with the dana 300. at this moment, I've only convinced myself that a billet cover, and novak 32 spline output is all I need to do. It would be nice to do 4:1, but around here, rocks really aren't the staple they are south of the Oregon border... snow is its primary diet, along with sand and mud.... so I am pondering that issue.
and the tail light issue - it's like the Supreme Court said "We know it when we see it," what those lights will be are still ill-defined. I like the idea of easy, truck-stop lights - but they just aren't bright enough (and I think they look cheap too - which isn't a bad thing, but not this thing).
rusty_tlc
Dain Bramaged Member
If you plan to actually use the rig and you are in Oregon carpet might not be the best choice. I don't think Weathertech makes floor matts for the FJ40 and you are going to get a boat load of mud, sand and melting snow into your rig. Trust me, I've trashed my 100 series interior overlanding it.
I'd use the word "Industrial" rather than "cheap" to describe the truck stop tail lights. It sounds more chic.
One thing you might want on the list for a real overland rig is on board hot water, probably one of the most under appreciated features an overland rig can have until you experience it. Even two days on the trail and I'm ready for a hot shower. If you set it up to run creek water you can make a lot of friends.
When you say converter do you mean "inverter"? Based on real world experience a small inverter is all you need. We have one that plugs into the cigarette lighter and will charge the laptop and my wife's digital SLR batteries, it has been all we have needed for many miles and days of overland travel. Most everything we use runs on gas, propane or 12V. You are far better off putting the effort into an auxiliary battery than an inverter since you would need that to run an inverter anyway. In the old days I would have said get a deep cycle battery, but some of the new AGM batteries work pretty well as both starting and deep cycle. I haven't read the whole thread so I don't know if this has come up but one thing you will never regret having is a 12V freezer/fridge, with that comes the need for an Aux battery.
I'd trade more fuel capacity for more water capacity, even in Nevada water is easier to come by than gas. We have an MSR water filter that will fill a 1 liter bottle in 5 minutes with pure odor free water from the nastiest source you can imagine. Range is everything in overlanding. Aside from not being able to find gas it is typically priced according to how far you are from civilization. 400 to 500 mile range would be ideal. I can just about get 300 with 10 gallons in cans and a comfortable safety factor (50 miles or so) this has been the source of many disappointments.
Just a few things to consider.
rusty_tlc
Dain Bramaged Member
Thanks, good to know.
- Thread starter
- #451
all good points.
yes, inverter
gas is easier then water, actually - not because there isn't a lot of water about, but there isn't safe water - so when I do rapid response, I don't have time to stop and boil water. That said, my grandpa used to live in Tecopa Hot Springs California - and I've stomped around the hills with him there - but he did NOT like heights, so now that he's got his wings, I want to go make some runs in Death Valley - so fuel capacity will be something I need to consider for those extraordinary trips... dunno yet, I'm still wondering if I shouldn't re-engineer the floor and put a large by huge tank under the seats and back to the step. Or, I could add some additional capacity and a sump on the driver's side... or perhaps I'll figure out something slide-in for the long journeys.
That's a good idea about the hot water shower. As for making friends, umm... lol - as you can see here, I'm excellent at forming opinions. The reason for hot water would be to make my wife less whiny.. and that's always a good thing.
Since I am using the same roll bar set up as you - can I convince you to take pictures of where you ran your down-legs and where you tied into the b-pillar bar?
rugged, industrial, chic... all good words in their space.
I'm not in Oregon, I'm almost in Canada - to the point I catch myself saying "aboot" with annoying frequency. That said, I use a Hummer H3 for SAR and for Overland now - carpet really isn't a problem for me, but they are going to be washable and completely removeable (most Model A roadsters use carpets like I'm going to do. What I like about carpet is the comfort, quiet, and the ability to take my shoes off... yeah, I'm weird, but I'm comfortable with it.
I may buy an ARB refrigerator - but to be honest, it used to be that dried foods were awful. That isn't the case anymore, plus I don't drink alcohol, so having a cold beverage simply isn't a necessity nor is refrigeration. With that said, I do plan on forming up a military-type trailer and putting my RTT on it. Leaving all the gear at the campsite is something I think would be good... when I do that, I'll have a refrigerator and a stove along with a locked food locker. And with that said, things are not set in stone - when I bought my RTT, I didn't have Buick. Buick can't climb ladders and he's a huge coward if dad isn't within 5 feet - so, either I need to figure out an crane system or lower the tent to ground level again... and if I do that, a tear drop trailer might be a better option. One step at a time. I need this thing to be SAR ready by October, the other stuff, I have my H3.
yes, inverter
gas is easier then water, actually - not because there isn't a lot of water about, but there isn't safe water - so when I do rapid response, I don't have time to stop and boil water. That said, my grandpa used to live in Tecopa Hot Springs California - and I've stomped around the hills with him there - but he did NOT like heights, so now that he's got his wings, I want to go make some runs in Death Valley - so fuel capacity will be something I need to consider for those extraordinary trips... dunno yet, I'm still wondering if I shouldn't re-engineer the floor and put a large by huge tank under the seats and back to the step. Or, I could add some additional capacity and a sump on the driver's side... or perhaps I'll figure out something slide-in for the long journeys.
That's a good idea about the hot water shower. As for making friends, umm... lol - as you can see here, I'm excellent at forming opinions. The reason for hot water would be to make my wife less whiny.. and that's always a good thing.
Since I am using the same roll bar set up as you - can I convince you to take pictures of where you ran your down-legs and where you tied into the b-pillar bar?
rugged, industrial, chic... all good words in their space.
I'm not in Oregon, I'm almost in Canada - to the point I catch myself saying "aboot" with annoying frequency. That said, I use a Hummer H3 for SAR and for Overland now - carpet really isn't a problem for me, but they are going to be washable and completely removeable (most Model A roadsters use carpets like I'm going to do. What I like about carpet is the comfort, quiet, and the ability to take my shoes off... yeah, I'm weird, but I'm comfortable with it.
I may buy an ARB refrigerator - but to be honest, it used to be that dried foods were awful. That isn't the case anymore, plus I don't drink alcohol, so having a cold beverage simply isn't a necessity nor is refrigeration. With that said, I do plan on forming up a military-type trailer and putting my RTT on it. Leaving all the gear at the campsite is something I think would be good... when I do that, I'll have a refrigerator and a stove along with a locked food locker. And with that said, things are not set in stone - when I bought my RTT, I didn't have Buick. Buick can't climb ladders and he's a huge coward if dad isn't within 5 feet - so, either I need to figure out an crane system or lower the tent to ground level again... and if I do that, a tear drop trailer might be a better option. One step at a time. I need this thing to be SAR ready by October, the other stuff, I have my H3.
rusty_tlc
Dain Bramaged Member
I mentioned the MSR water filter, fast and effective for all water born pathogens. It's worth having one in your truck even if you carry plenty of water.
I'll try to get some pictures of the cage tie in fire you later today.
I'll try to get some pictures of the cage tie in fire you later today.
- Thread starter
- #453
Water purification... ugh - if you want to start a fight in SAR, tell them what you use for purification. We carry just about every type known to man - I even have a few in my desk drawer. The MSR is my 2nd least favorite... too many bits, heavy, expensive, and needlessly confusing (anything that uses a light bulb is my least favorite because they'll kill you). I carry purification tablets for quick work (tastes awful, but light and effective) and I have what's basically a filtered straw called a LifeStraw. I like Grayl Quest as well - though I admit that what sold me was watching the company owner pull water out of a toilet, purify it, then drink it....
rusty_tlc
Dain Bramaged Member
Interesting, I find the MSR to be very easy to use just screw it to my Nalgene bottle drop the pick up in the water source and pump. I also like that the filter is field serviceable, and I didn't find those directions overly complicated. The quality of the filtered water is much better IMHO than chemically treated. Weight isn't really an issue for overland use, for backpacking I use bleach or boil water. Bleach has the least objectionable flavor for me and a single dropper bottle will last a very long time.
- Thread starter
- #455
I carry my search and rescue backpacks (I have a 24 hour pack and a 3 day pack) with me in my 4x4 since I get called out on missions at any hour of the day or night. Overlanding for me is an offshoot of that - thus, about the only real difference between what I travel with during any day and overlanding is I may have the RTT on my rig. But for that minor change, I eat the same food, drink the same water, sleep in the same sleeping bag.
It's a style thing... there really is no wrong way to be prepared except by not being prepared.
It's a style thing... there really is no wrong way to be prepared except by not being prepared.
rusty_tlc
Dain Bramaged Member
On all these you will notice the elliptical scab plates used on the frame.
Front tie in
Rear
Front tie in
Rear
rusty_tlc
Dain Bramaged Member
So 'splain to me how this is an extreme overland build then?
- Thread starter
- #458
Overland uses fire roads, where extreme overland goes, we don't need no stinkin' roads.
that said, could I rename it, I'd call it shipwreck.
plus, my impression of Overland forums is "how do I wire these lights I got from O'reilly's" and "what is the right wax to use on my vehicle, can I use it on my legs" and I ran low air pressure of 32 psi (when the manufacturer recommended 36 psi) for 20 miles.... do I need to buy new tires?
that said, could I rename it, I'd call it shipwreck.
plus, my impression of Overland forums is "how do I wire these lights I got from O'reilly's" and "what is the right wax to use on my vehicle, can I use it on my legs" and I ran low air pressure of 32 psi (when the manufacturer recommended 36 psi) for 20 miles.... do I need to buy new tires?
- Thread starter
- #459
I like the braces, did you put rubber between the pad and the body?
rusty_tlc
Dain Bramaged Member
You have no clue about the overland community.
Overland uses fire roads;
My 100% stock UZJ100
My slightly modified 1984 FJ60
I could also link literally thousands of pages of highly technical discussions about suspension geometry, tire reviews, and any other technical aspect of building a vehicle capable of driving from the southern tip of South America to Prudhoe bay.