Builds Shipwreck (5 Viewers)

[SuperBuickGuy]

anyway, maybe a half step forward, they're in but they all have to move .... the frame mounts need to go up, the cross member mounts need to go out to about the centerline mark






funny thing is I guessed at what the spacing of the cross member brackets was that I'd decided on last night. Those are the marks on the outside, if you look at my numbers you'll see they should be 16" apart... which wasn't the number I decided on last night... turns out that number was the right one... anyway, there could be a bit of a break since I have stuff going on the next two nights - but hopefully I can squeeze an hour in to put the mounts where they belong then work on making the cross member actually bolt in place rather than tacked

 

[Wilson]

Tubes press out after drilling or blowing out the plug welds.

This bracket:
http://www.artecindustries.com/Adjustable-Inner-Frame-Bracket-single_p_295.html

I've used these on a couple 40's:

http://www.artecindustries.com/Dual-4-link-Bracket-pair_p_253.html

Ruff stuff's version(s):

http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/ADJFMLB10.html
http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/ADJFMLB30.html

One I made on my first buggy 10 years ago, before there was all of this cool DIY stuff

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

I've been considering since you said adjustability... next time I get on this, I'll see if I can modify and drill holes in mine... I think there's room.

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

a bit more work
first, the cross member will be bolted on - yes, it will be a bit of a pain to pull the transmission and transfer case, but I think it makes for a cleaner install


moved the brackets over, and marked for some adjustability of the upper control arms



it's good anyway, there a slight interference with the zerk fittings and the mounts - so trimming them back does many good things

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

On Pirate, 90% of the keyboard jockeys were certain it was impossible to build a 4 link on less than a 100" wheelbase.... as usual, they're wrong.

welded up the outer brackets


oh damn, what's this...


you know, that sure looks like a 4 link...


yes, yes it is a double triangle 4 link




and look at that, the axle isn't where the trailer hitch mounts


oh well, the naysayers do love their short bus.

and I apologize for gloating, of course, I'll be twice as bad once the front is done....

 

[Mudder]

So not having much background on link suspension what's the advantage of 4 link over 3 link?

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

strength - if you have room for a 4 link, you put it in. The front of this is getting a 3 link... which is kind of a misnomer because if you include the required panhard bar, it's 4 link as well...

overall, using a linked suspension - this is not a complete list - but there are several advantages
1) it's easy to get progressive spring rates
2) it packages in a smaller area and gives you better departure angles
3) it can be tuned to give you better traction
4) you can get more travel from the suspension
5) it tends to be better on washboard roads because you can tune the suspension...
6) on short wheelbase vehicles, it can really help with u-joint or cv joint angles.

 

[White Stripe]

Nice

 

[CreeperSleeper]

Congrats on getting links to fit! I can't wait to hear how it all works when she is done.

Oh, and good idea leaving the leaf spring mounts, just in case.

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

Congrats on getting links to fit! I can't wait to hear how it all works when she is done.

Oh, and good idea leaving the leaf spring mounts, just in case.

Thanks for noticing - I was thinking of doing a floating leaf-spring suspension (KIDDING)... sheesh

I must have moved that stupid thing 5 times on my lift to get it level and to move a lift arm out of the way of whatever I was doing until I realized that simply using the leaf spring mounts would accomplish all I needed... and make it a lot easier make the rig level. Originally, I didn't cut them off because I'm a lazy ass and I hate grinding and grinder dust - now I have a good reason, but I'm still a lazy ass

 

[CreeperSleeper]

LOL! I'm lazy enough that mine will probably stay there too. I will make up something when people ask about it. Custom overload mounts? Rock crawling e-brake? Meh, I'll think of something.

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

LOL! I'm lazy enough that mine will probably stay there too. I will make up something when people ask about it. Custom overload mounts? Rock crawling e-brake? Meh, I'll think of something.

funny, this morning my wife asked me what the worst cock-n-bull story that I got someone to buy was (no, telling her that she would get worse mileage in her Prius after I installed electric seats wasn't it).... I think it was convincing a church leader that a mutual friend, who is a pastor, had just died in a whorehouse in Nevada after he was stabbed by the hooker's jealous husband would probably be in the top 10.

thus, I'm thinking of leaving them now... call them air spring mounts or something.

 

[Flipper1938]

Put the bolts back in and call them tie down points

 

[onemanarmy]

thanks for sharing all the ups and downs of this build....i'm following along.

would have been nice to save the rear quarters. Thats what gives FJ40s their iconic look and character, not to mention they are worth more uncut.

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

there's nothing to save, there's at least 1/4" of bondo making up the left rear corner, the right side doesn't appear to be any different. The biggest tell something is amiss with an FJ40 - there's no spot weld spots left in the side (they glaze them over). If these fenders were saveable, it'd be little trouble to save them since I'm replacing them with new metal anyway but again, they're not... lots and lots of bondo

my personal style, I like preserving the outward appearance/style of what I build - meaning, that I get a lot of people who come up to me and say "I've never really liked those, but yours looks really good" - which is cool since most of the vehicles I do are rarely ever stock (e.g. chopped top, flares,etc).

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

I will mention this here - if anyone has 8 lug, 16" solid steel wheels .... I'd be interested. my ultimate goal on the wheels for this rig is poverty caps over the 8 lug wheels. worst case, I'll simply have aluminum ones made... but that will be the last resort.

again, 8 lug 16" NOT 16.5 solid steels.

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

didn't get a lot done tonight... and will have to circle back and fix something I probably should have addressed awhile ago.

first, if you ever want to see how much crap is floating around in my shop after an evening, this picture should clear that up...

yeah, a lot

I cycled the suspension and the pinion is staying centered - which is what I was aiming for... granted, this is a huge amount further down then it will live - but it's nice to know if I want 24" of travel, it's there for the asking


so the guy who sold me the FJ is coming by tomorrow night to get the springs and some tires that were given to me by a really nice guy on MUD, and (honestly) I wanted to show off by having the tires on it


but there's a problem
on this side, the nut that holds the hub on has an issue


I knew the new spindle was machined tight - and frankly I should have taken it to any of a couple friends with lathes to turn it down one c-hair. I didn't... and now the spindle nut tries to cross thread rather than spin on - I'm hoping that my friend who's doing the front axle has a die to redo the threads... we'll see tomorrow. Ah well, some days I'm a shining example, most times, however, I'm simply a really good warning. Don't get in a hurry kids, it'll bite-cha.

Good thing I don't do this for a living.

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

tires and springs are back to the former owner for use on his FJ40 and FJ60. recycling at its finest

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

I've still not decided, so I'll throw this out there. Coil overs with dual rate springs would work, but it's really not the intended purpose, coil springs would work, but still have the same issue.... I do SAR, and one of the big benefits of doing a FJ40 is the short wheelbase coupled with the ability to haul 7 close friends (they may not be close before, but on the seats they would be). This creates a unique challenge, since the rig goes from Buick and I (call it 200# each) plus gear (Buick travels light, I don't) of about 50# for me and tools of another 100# or so. All in, with fuel, tips the scales at an estimated 5500 lbs. Now, add 5 more people, granted all won't likely be 200 lbs, but figure 200 lbs total per person and my rig goes to a portly 8000 lbs, all of that over the rear. With coil or dual coil springs, I don't get overloads. I could add air bags, but that would reduce travel (okay, not absolutely, but our intents yes because it's space limited to put the bags)...

so, what if I used coil springs and fox air springs? the issue, as I understand it, is the air springs don't have the capacity I'm looking for; however, if I take the dry load with the coil springs, then use the air springs to handle shock-absorbing and overload duties... that would work? right?...

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

this is the shock I'm talking about - normally speaking, you'll see these on rock buggies and they don't have coil springs at all - the air suspends the vehicle; their downside is they're for light vehicles.... thus the idea of using ordinary coil springs as the primary weight-bearing device.