- Thread starter
- #201
maybe now we can get back to talking about modifying toyotas? just sayin'
Builds Shipwreck (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter SuperBuickGuy
- Start date
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The parts don't care what they are on. Tube rear fenders should work as is. Tube front fender design could be copied/adapted to a FJ40 pretty easily
http://www.genright.com/ProductInfo.aspx?productid=TFR1000#.VM46fdLF95c
http://www.genright.com/ProductInfo.aspx?productid=TFF2700#.VM46xdLF95d
- Thread starter
- #203
you've convinced me, this is what I'm getting
I figure if it's not long enough, I can simply extend the top (straight is easy to lengthen)....
thanks for the input!
I figure if it's not long enough, I can simply extend the top (straight is easy to lengthen)....
thanks for the input!
- Thread starter
- #204
out with the old
mockup
so the black area is what I'm thinking I'll cut out once I get the 4" flares...
mockup
so the black area is what I'm thinking I'll cut out once I get the 4" flares...
- Thread starter
- #205
If that becomes the final spot, the driveshaft will be 18" and the u-joint angles of both the rear and the transfer case will be 7 degrees
- Thread starter
- #206
anyway, more considerations
the line is where the wheel is moved forward.
stella is not sure that moving the wheel forward 2" is a good idea
still not sure and is stepping away from the guy with the camera
Kensie is just here for the treats
moved forward a bit
this is ride height
squaring holes
the line is where the wheel is moved forward.
stella is not sure that moving the wheel forward 2" is a good idea
still not sure and is stepping away from the guy with the camera
Kensie is just here for the treats
moved forward a bit
this is ride height
squaring holes
This is my favorite cut quarter panel for a stretched wheel base:
http://s43.photobucket.com/user/ZoieAmos/media/DSC08875.jpg.html
I think 2" isnt bad up front personally. But if you have the shackles up front it will take out the fender under compression.
http://s43.photobucket.com/user/ZoieAmos/media/DSC08875.jpg.html
I think 2" isnt bad up front personally. But if you have the shackles up front it will take out the fender under compression.
- Thread starter
- #208
I'm going with all-linked suspension.... it's why I was interested in doing this build. I like building things that push the envelope of what I know - and then I came across a 4x4 right at the time I was considering my next step of cars. Right now I use my DD H3 as a do-everything vehicle, and it is perfect for overland camping, SAR transportation, it's okay for rescue work, and kind of stupid as a DD (I don't believe that zombies will attack without warning - meaning, I'll have time to get the guns and the zombie rig)... thus, this one needs to do okay at overland camping, but be perfect at all facets of SAR - both hauling and getting to remote places, and, of course, be zombie proof. My DD will be a vehicle to be determined later (and could either be something I have now, or a yet-to-be-determined-pick).
the truth is I should push the rear backwards a couple more inches - and I might - so that I get as long as possible driveshaft... but in measuring today, I can get a driveshaft that will handle how it is right now, and I like the looks with the wheel a bit forward...
longwinded way of saying - no shackles
the truth is I should push the rear backwards a couple more inches - and I might - so that I get as long as possible driveshaft... but in measuring today, I can get a driveshaft that will handle how it is right now, and I like the looks with the wheel a bit forward...
longwinded way of saying - no shackles
I like the wheel opening centered on the quarter panel. To me, that looks the best.
Have you considered raising/moving the front fenders? ....stretching on the down slope, pushing the front up and forward. I think the front fender needs to stay over the front tire.
Have you considered raising/moving the front fenders? ....stretching on the down slope, pushing the front up and forward. I think the front fender needs to stay over the front tire.
- Thread starter
- #210
I kind of like the wheel being proud of the fender - though a few trips where I'm cleaning the roof because it threw stuff up there.... I also need the space under the hood for the air compressor and welder/inverter I'm putting in there.
I didn't think about losing under hood space.
- Thread starter
- #212
this is the interesting stuff to me - it's a lot of bookish crap; but it truly is, to me, the stuff that makes or breaks any car.
On Pirate is a calculator that Dan BarCroft created in 2004.
this kind of thing you get by using it
Four wheeler has a pretty detailed article that kind of gives baselines with where to start.... of course, it helps to have done a suspension or twenty in the past...
http://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/suspension-brakes/131-0307-four-link-suspension-part-2/
as you know by my roll bars, I'm more visual than paper - so get the baselines and put them on the floor to see if it works
then transfer the "optimal" measurements to the frame to see if it will work.... I think I'll be fine if I can drill a hole through the transfer case.... bright side is the top mount is in a great place.... only everything relies upon stuff fitting... the solution is to raise the frame 2" or so... which works out pretty good because the transfer case cross member, is 2" lower than the frame... I honestly don't plan this, but the reason it's tacked rather than bolted is because I was afraid I was going to have to move it....
this is what it will look like in the vehicle
anyway, tonight I verify, and tomorrow as well, Wednesday I get the upper support and so Thursday I can burn it in.... I may weld the lower brackets and the cross member in place along with the frame mounts.... presuming, again, that the numbers work out
On Pirate is a calculator that Dan BarCroft created in 2004.
this kind of thing you get by using it
Four wheeler has a pretty detailed article that kind of gives baselines with where to start.... of course, it helps to have done a suspension or twenty in the past...
http://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/suspension-brakes/131-0307-four-link-suspension-part-2/
as you know by my roll bars, I'm more visual than paper - so get the baselines and put them on the floor to see if it works
then transfer the "optimal" measurements to the frame to see if it will work.... I think I'll be fine if I can drill a hole through the transfer case.... bright side is the top mount is in a great place.... only everything relies upon stuff fitting... the solution is to raise the frame 2" or so... which works out pretty good because the transfer case cross member, is 2" lower than the frame... I honestly don't plan this, but the reason it's tacked rather than bolted is because I was afraid I was going to have to move it....
this is what it will look like in the vehicle
anyway, tonight I verify, and tomorrow as well, Wednesday I get the upper support and so Thursday I can burn it in.... I may weld the lower brackets and the cross member in place along with the frame mounts.... presuming, again, that the numbers work out
- Thread starter
- #213
Here's my tentative starting point - all of this is subject to change after professional review... but since I've yet to design the front suspension, this at least gives me some numbers to fill in the blanks on the front design.
4 Bar Linkage Calculator v3.0
Vehicle CG 40.00
Sprung Mass CG 49.00 in
Anti-Squat CG 43.42 in
Suspension Geometry:
Upper Links x y z
Frame End 23.000 15.000 26.000 in
Axle End 0.000 4.500 26.000 in
Vector 23.000 10.500 0.000 in
Length 25.283 in
Unit Vector 0.9097 0.4153 0.0000 1.0000
Intercept -9.8571 4.5000 26.0000 in
Roll Point -9.8571 0.0000 26.0000 in
Force 6183.439 lb (Tension)
Force Vector 5625.000 2567.935 0.000 lb
Vertical Slope 0.4565 in/in
Horizontal Slope 0.0000 in/in
Lower Links x y z
Frame End 33.000 3.750 21.000 in
Axle End 3.000 15.500 18.000 in
Vector 30.000 -11.750 3.000 in
Length 32.358 in
Unit Vector 0.9271 -0.3631 0.0927 1.0000
Intercept 42.5745 16.6750 17.7000 in
Roll Point 42.5745 0.0000 21.9574 in
Force -8446.958 lb (Compression)
Force Vector -7831.325 3067.269 -783.133 lb
Vertical Slope -0.3917 in/in
Horizontal Slope 0.100 in/in
Geometry Summary:
Anti-Squat 68.179 %
Roll Axis Slope -0.0771 in/in (Roll Understeer)
Roll Center Height 25.240 in
Roll Axis Angle -4.409 degrees (Roll Understeer)
Instant Center X-Axis 83.000 in
Instant Center Z-Axis 26.000 in
4 Bar Linkage Calculator v3.0
Vehicle CG 40.00
Sprung Mass CG 49.00 in
Anti-Squat CG 43.42 in
Suspension Geometry:
Upper Links x y z
Frame End 23.000 15.000 26.000 in
Axle End 0.000 4.500 26.000 in
Vector 23.000 10.500 0.000 in
Length 25.283 in
Unit Vector 0.9097 0.4153 0.0000 1.0000
Intercept -9.8571 4.5000 26.0000 in
Roll Point -9.8571 0.0000 26.0000 in
Force 6183.439 lb (Tension)
Force Vector 5625.000 2567.935 0.000 lb
Vertical Slope 0.4565 in/in
Horizontal Slope 0.0000 in/in
Lower Links x y z
Frame End 33.000 3.750 21.000 in
Axle End 3.000 15.500 18.000 in
Vector 30.000 -11.750 3.000 in
Length 32.358 in
Unit Vector 0.9271 -0.3631 0.0927 1.0000
Intercept 42.5745 16.6750 17.7000 in
Roll Point 42.5745 0.0000 21.9574 in
Force -8446.958 lb (Compression)
Force Vector -7831.325 3067.269 -783.133 lb
Vertical Slope -0.3917 in/in
Horizontal Slope 0.100 in/in
Geometry Summary:
Anti-Squat 68.179 %
Roll Axis Slope -0.0771 in/in (Roll Understeer)
Roll Center Height 25.240 in
Roll Axis Angle -4.409 degrees (Roll Understeer)
Instant Center X-Axis 83.000 in
Instant Center Z-Axis 26.000 in
Think about using upper frame mounted link brackets that have multiple mounting holes so u can fine tune the antisquat.
- Thread starter
- #215
I don't know what I'm going to do about that yet - the brackets I bought are exceptionally strong but not adjustable. As I've designed it with squat, I'm thinking about adjusting the squat with spring rate or with compression adjustment on the shocks... the issue was balance, right now, the point where the two lines converge is just under the oil sump - which is the heaviest point of the truck. One thing that isn't part of those equations - is weight bias, and that will affect whether or not the vehicle actually squats. The other issue is room above the differential; at this point, I'm starting to get concerned that I'm going to have an interference problem with the top links and the floor - if that's true, then I have to lower the bump stops, then raise the suspension to get adequate compression - which would change that number to greater anti-squat (higher percentage)... adjustability would be nice - though at the moment I've not figured out how to do it.
- Thread starter
- #216
flares came in today, they're going to work perfect... pictures @ 11
- Thread starter
- #217
not yet 11, at least not here but what the heck...
flares - Jeeps make for good donor vehicles
so I don't know what I'm going to do with the rear edge... at this moment, I think it would look best if I decreased the rear, upper radius - but that would be a bit of work.... I could just shorten it...
flares - Jeeps make for good donor vehicles
so I don't know what I'm going to do with the rear edge... at this moment, I think it would look best if I decreased the rear, upper radius - but that would be a bit of work.... I could just shorten it...
What does it look like if you raise the flare a little higher?
- Thread starter
- #219
at this point the flare is even with the inner fender - though moving it up would actually work with a mod that I've been considering. I'm going to put sliders on this, and someone here (can't remember who to give credit for such an excellent idea) cut the side rail up then welded in 2x4 tube. I'm going to pull the body off soon, so having those body-welded sliders in place would help maintain rigidity and give a great lift point (not to mention it'd create all sorts of hubris when I use my hi lift to lift on that rail after it's all painted)... if I do that style of rail, I could move it up... since these are build with an inner plate - it really wouldn't look bad at all.... I'll do more pictures of that tonight...
the other issue for consideration is how to get the bedlining off these flares... though, if I do simply move them up, then I can paint over and leave the lining on for rust protection...
the other issue for consideration is how to get the bedlining off these flares... though, if I do simply move them up, then I can paint over and leave the lining on for rust protection...
- Thread starter
- #220
I moved one up at lunchtime - I think that will work, if I cut the bottom of the body (funny because I looked long and hard for a rust-free body), then do a 2" square plus a round (like the flare) rub rail - the it will all look like it was planned or something.... might even leave it all bedlined black because it's a non-slip surface - and that will look good with the color I think I'm painting it...
kind of sort of the bronze on the tank
kind of sort of the bronze on the tank