Since my engine is 200+ I have to think yours is a bit more. Lots of people run manual timing, I just think having them synced up by a computer will allow for more power. There are ways of cheating the knock sensor for loud valve trains.
Builds Shipwreck (6 Viewers)
- Thread starter SuperBuickGuy
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
- Thread starter
- #2,622
at these hp levels, close counts - my Buick motors (boost) or the Corvette motor (high compression)? yes, it's a huge deal but with cast pistons being conservative with the timing is really the only solution.... and having one less thing to not fail is good as well. Not just that but it's a $200 'feature' that I don't think is necessary (for this build, the FI tech on the Corvette has full timing control, as does the megasquirt for the TT 430 Buick motor).
I run the stock tbi with a 96 vortec engine and a few other things . No problems with mine. I had brian at tbi chips.com burn a custom chip. After about 3 revisions I had a very usable tune. I dont have vss so sometimes stopping from hi rpm with want to make the motor stall. I just bump the gas if the rpms drop that low.
- Thread starter
- #2,624
continuing on updates
this is me saying "I don't have time to resolve the TBI's issues" technically speaking, this should pretty much bolt in place of what's there
https://i.imgur.com/***pTveh.jpg
I'm also going to change the dash a bit and put a different light controller in place...
and time to fix the heater hoses
this is me saying "I don't have time to resolve the TBI's issues" technically speaking, this should pretty much bolt in place of what's there
https://i.imgur.com/***pTveh.jpg
I'm also going to change the dash a bit and put a different light controller in place...
and time to fix the heater hoses
- Thread starter
- #2,625
the TBI runs out of steam at about 3800 rpm, couple that with the constant lean issues when cold and the ever present timing issues.... I'll put this stuff on a shelf and may use it later but for now, this is the quickest way to not losing too many wheeling weekends. I'm glad I used it and learned a ton about old EFI systems so as far as I'm concerned it was a good system, but like old computers - updating can really help....
- Thread starter
- #2,628
before I get the inevitable correction - I bought the one with timing control (though probably won't use it).... it was actually cheaper then the one without timing control
- Thread starter
- #2,630
I haven't taken it apart yet, however, the only entertaining I'll be doing is the children's story (and yeah, how wrong is that they let me tell the kids stories?)
- Thread starter
- #2,631
it works
ish
for some reason the trigger only works 95% of the time - had it not left the torch on and cut a bone in half - that'd be a cute little skull and cross bones
One thing for certain is I need to fill the table up closer to the top - it blows the water out from under the piece, either that or make shorter stands.
ish
for some reason the trigger only works 95% of the time - had it not left the torch on and cut a bone in half - that'd be a cute little skull and cross bones
One thing for certain is I need to fill the table up closer to the top - it blows the water out from under the piece, either that or make shorter stands.
- Thread starter
- #2,632
I had a bunch of other things to do today (like my motorcycle trailer), so I only spent a bit and extended the list of to dos.
I've never been happy with the clutch - but since I'm a one-man-band getting underneath to eyeball what's going on was difficult at best... that said, I had help for a bit - and finally started diagnosing the issues... yeah plural. First, wrong size master cylinder, a comment on Summit racing that the correct size MC was 7/8 not 3/4 - sent me googling for answers, and finally found it. That would fix one problem - not enough throw. It doesn't fix the other issues, the MC is moving on the firewall - so I need to build a brace. Also the slave cylinder bracket is moving as well, so that needs to be strengthened. I am concerned that there's something in the throw on the throwout bearing, but that's after I get the first parts done...
I do keep thinking about an automatic, but the benefits of the manual for engine braking and more gear options so far keep me there (for those who don't know, when I built the adapter, I made the entire trans/adapter/bellhousing length the same as a 4L60e). I do need to finish the e-brake (or put a 3 position switch (momentary-off-on) on the line lock...
and that adds to the list that includes
- straps on the new mufflers
- rewire the light controls
- swap in FI tech
- build new center section of the dash
- make the HAM radio so it can be heard
- add the harness bar
- find the fuel smell
- put a rear box/rear seat in
I've never been happy with the clutch - but since I'm a one-man-band getting underneath to eyeball what's going on was difficult at best... that said, I had help for a bit - and finally started diagnosing the issues... yeah plural. First, wrong size master cylinder, a comment on Summit racing that the correct size MC was 7/8 not 3/4 - sent me googling for answers, and finally found it. That would fix one problem - not enough throw. It doesn't fix the other issues, the MC is moving on the firewall - so I need to build a brace. Also the slave cylinder bracket is moving as well, so that needs to be strengthened. I am concerned that there's something in the throw on the throwout bearing, but that's after I get the first parts done...
I do keep thinking about an automatic, but the benefits of the manual for engine braking and more gear options so far keep me there (for those who don't know, when I built the adapter, I made the entire trans/adapter/bellhousing length the same as a 4L60e). I do need to finish the e-brake (or put a 3 position switch (momentary-off-on) on the line lock...
and that adds to the list that includes
- straps on the new mufflers
- rewire the light controls
- swap in FI tech
- build new center section of the dash
- make the HAM radio so it can be heard
- add the harness bar
- find the fuel smell
- put a rear box/rear seat in
- Thread starter
- #2,633
So the first fix the clutch issue... it stopped disengaging. I replaced the master cylinder with a 7/8" bore and slave seemed to be leaking down so I replaced it as well - which appears to be updated over the prior one...
old
new
why it blurred? I dunno
it works well now, hopefully this itineration will last more then 3k miles
old
new
why it blurred? I dunno
it works well now, hopefully this itineration will last more then 3k miles
Ha ha ha, heard that one before. 3k miles or until you drive it out of your driveway, which ever comes first.
- Thread starter
- #2,635
Ha ha ha, heard that one before. 3k miles or until you drive it out of your driveway, which ever comes first.
not a prediction, rather a shade towards the old... the slave cylinder's design is quite different then before. Clutch is a bit firmer but it's not bad either....
@SuperBuickGuy - quick question on your fender flares (since I ripped half of one off last weekend on the trails). I think somewhere I saw you mentioned they're metal Jeep flares. I've read through numerous debates as to whether rigid metal flares will "glance off" blows or whether they will act as damage multipliers by distributing the weight of a hit across the quarter panel and denting the whole thing. Obviously, rubber flares don't have this issue, but also offer little in the way of protection to the quarter panel in the first place. They just won't crack like my fiberglass ones did.
Just curious if you've actually "tested" the metal flares by running them into something, or, for more details in general - ie how they're mounted, reinforced, etc.
Just curious if you've actually "tested" the metal flares by running them into something, or, for more details in general - ie how they're mounted, reinforced, etc.
Sorry to jump on Buick's question. My quarter panels were taking a beating from trees and rocks. I bought some Smittybilt Jeep TJ rear fender flares and modified them to fit my openings. They line up with the wheel well tub which helps greatly to spread the load of hits. I used some steel backing plates where I could and even put a cross bar from my rear cage tie-in to the rear edge of the flare (the rear corner of my wheel wells was always getting bent under when coming off rocks). Zoom in and you can see the tie-in I mention. They have held up great against many a tree and rock and have not multiplied any damage.
Yep - I thought about a similar tie-in because that's exactly where my panel crunched. Just wondered how that would affect the already plush ride - having the frame tied to the tub.
I never noticed a difference between before and after. I originally had a few ideas for rubber isolators, but it would have been too much effort and everyone advised that stiffer is better off road so I went with solid mounts.
- Thread starter
- #2,640
Mine are smittybilt TJ flares - that I shortened and chopped the center out..... much like Steve did after he saw mine*.... I used them at Walker as a turning point around a bollard.... the worst was getting the damn yellow paint off.... it did nothing to the vehicle. the key is it's distributing the weight across the panel and that's right at the point where the inner fender meets the side panel - so it's pretty strong. Your comment makes me chuckle, though, about distributing the blow - if you damage a side panel through these, you'll have far more trouble than just a dented panel. One thing to be aware of, they can trap dirt and moisture so the should either be well sealed or open enough to wash dust out from behind them....
*what Steve (srgould) didn't tell you, his side panel had more waves then a parade - when he bolted the flare on, it straightened the side out..... which is kind of the opposite of what some might be saying