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Or else use a true three wire element :)

toyotaspeed90 said:
It's been a while since I did this..... and I *think* this is right (you could test with a cheapo 1157 housing/bulb on the bench if you have one)....

30 = Positive wire originally headed to running light (now source of + signal for running lights)
87a = Positive wire headed to actual running light
85 = Positive wire tapped into turn signal wire
86 = Ground


I'm trying to remember - but what this effectively does is allow the "turn on" to be normal for running lights - and when you hit the blinker, it uses the relay to cut power to the light (and when the flasher kicks off, the relay would then kick back on... effectively acting as a blinker).

However... something in my brain is telling me this would only work so long as the running lights are on..... (hence why I'm thinking a bench test might help)
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srgould41 said:
Or else use a true three wire element :)
Click to expand...

Yes you could - and unless you spend big(ger) bucks on something that is a turn light (in the size you want) and has dual brightness LED's (like a tail/brake light), then the circuitry built in is doing the same thing as a relay, but using resistors/diodes at a lower power level. It's why you can use things like the "blinker genie" with LED lights..... but those types of circuitry add ons are in the $20-25 ea range, where a bosch relay is 1/4 the price.
 
Hey, it's only money, right? It's not MY money I am spending here, it's SuperBuickGuy's! o_O



toyotaspeed90 said:
Yes you could - and unless you spend big(ger) bucks on something that is a turn light (in the size you want) and has dual brightness LED's (like a tail/brake light), then the circuitry built in is doing the same thing as a relay, but using resistors/diodes at a lower power level. It's why you can use things like the "blinker genie" with LED lights..... but those types of circuitry add ons are in the $20-25 ea range, where a bosch relay is 1/4 the price.
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Wouldn't a diode be better suited for this purpose than a relay? Certainly simpler and much less wiring.
 
I looked into making a standard led into a brake(same as turn)/park light and from my research it takes two diodes and one resistor. the diode allows power only to go one way so you don't have any backfeed, and the resistor just drops voltage so the park is not as bright.


Here is decent video.



and some written words.....

Wiring Fexiable LED strip to Turn signal
 
I wonder at the diodes. LED's ARE diodes.

2fpower said:
I looked into making a standard led into a brake(same as turn)/park light and from my research it takes two diodes and one resistor. the diode allows power only to go one way so you don't have any backfeed, and the resistor just drops voltage so the park is not as bright.
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srgould41 said:
I wonder at the diodes. LED's ARE diodes.
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Yes, but....

A diode allows current to pass through and not backfeed. There is 1 in, 1 out and they're directional.

If you provide 2 signals to the same "in" leg then they could backfeed to one another at that connection. You would use a diode on each wire to isolate the input signals to the LED.
 
Ah.. Now I understand what you are after. I diode would work for that situation for sure.

I am working on a project to add a trans gear indicator for my 4L60. One option was a 14 element LCD. Because the indicator switch is mechanical I would have needed a diode for every element in each gear position so they didn't back feed other connected elements. It was ugly.

toyotaspeed90 said:
Yes, but....

A diode allows current to pass through and not backfeed. There is 1 in, 1 out and they're directional.

If you provide 2 signals to the same "in" leg then they could backfeed to one another at that connection. You would use a diode on each wire to isolate the input signals to the LED.
Click to expand...
 
You could easily do that with a mini board of sorts... I'm not a fan of having electricAL components exposed (or wrapped) off of a board and is why I recomended a relay first. It would be pretty easy to build a mini board for about $10-20 that took the 3 signals in (parking, left turn, right turn) and spit out the necessary 2 signals, but that's usually out of the scope of most wanting just a simple relay install.
 
Which was my first reply suggestion. :rolleyes:

So when we going wheelin? I am itching to get out on Saturday. Even have approval from the :princess:.

SuperBuickGuy said:
I love the discussion - which is why I didn't immediately post my solution... I'm simply going to bore another 3/4" hole and run the signal through that one (yeah, I know - anyone can do it the easy way ;)
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Yes, wheeling on Sat.... but after noon.... best might be meet at your place at 1?

yeah, I hear you on the light thing. I'm thinking cubes like I have on top of my H3. What I am thinking at this point, though, is fog lights. After that night a few years ago up on Pilchuck; I've been pretty adamant about something low to cut through the fog. I'm also thinking about a single-row 50" bar across the top of the windshield.
 
The windshield bars at the top always throw me for a loop.... especially wheeling around here, they're just asking to be smacked by low hanging branches or trees when the trail gets a little off kilter....

Have you considered to see if one would fit at the bottom of the windshield (at whatever angle you want) but still fit under if folded down?
 
I've got a light bar on my H3... it's never been an issue. The problem with the bottom of the windshield is altitude. The further up the light bar is, the better it works.

With the 40, I'll put the light bar's top level with the top of the windshield. When the hard top is on, it will actually be higher up than the light
 
Center console


some modification needed - Jeep TJ center console.... Chevfotoyoeep.... the Land Cruiser is silent ;)

found a better way to run the fuel line


- for those without sense of humor and trolls - that's a joke. I'm replacing the stainless line with hard line

worked on the brush guard


 
I am so glad to see that you are bolting the brush guard on. I cringe when I see them welded and think of all the effort that adds when you need to tear stuff out to work on front. Do you have any plans to triangulate it? Bars angling forward or backward?

We gonna head to Elbe then? It's just under 1.5 hours from my house. That should give us time to hit most, if not all of the trails except for Busywild.
 
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