Builds Shipwreck (23 Viewers)
- Thread starter SuperBuickGuy
- Start date
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Your fuel pump... I'm wondering if it's overly noisy because (most) external pumps are pusher pumps.... when too far (or even close enough but they have to work harder) they can get really noisy. I had the same problem in my old boat that I had to go with an external pump.... once I put it literally inches from the tank, once primed you couldn't hear it at all. Before that... very obnoxious...
It's as close as I could fit it without being inside the cab. I am guessing 12" of hose, maybe a little more, and it is behind the tank about even with the bottom edge of it.
I know what you mean. I had to play around with placement to mount it as close as possible. There is the length of hose required to go from the tank to the floor where it goes right into a filter then right to the pump. The pump is about 2" from the floor board which doesn't help the noise any. I have enough room for a sound blanket above it. I have have not hunted for one yet. I will try to remember the next time I order from Summit.
I know what you mean. I had to play around with placement to mount it as close as possible. There is the length of hose required to go from the tank to the floor where it goes right into a filter then right to the pump. The pump is about 2" from the floor board which doesn't help the noise any. I have enough room for a sound blanket above it. I have have not hunted for one yet. I will try to remember the next time I order from Summit.
- Thread starter
- #1,204
Mine is already insured. This isn't a commercial because I honestly think that all the collector-car insurance companies are awesome - but Hagerty has treated me right. For me, once the body is mounted on the frame, that's when I get insurance. Before it's mounted, it's just parts and covered by your homeowners/renters insurance (presuming you have garage coverage).
- Thread starter
- #1,205
I debated on this issue - I like the aeromotive in-tank pumps, and I've adapted a pump from a 1993 Chevy truck for another car's tank... I went with external because I don't want to be tied to one make or manufacturer. You certainly can't hear it over the motor, and its mounted to the frame so there's no drum-effect noise generated. Another consideration was putting the pump inside the tank would put it inside the vehicle and risk have RF interference with my radios (a reminder - I do Search and Rescue)...
I think part of my issue is the pump is so close to the floor that it might enhance the sound. The whine is louder than my wife and son combined. I want to try some sound blankets above it when I can find some. On the 40, not on my wife and son.
- Thread starter
- #1,207
a trailer for your w&s?
Maybe I need to remove my passenger seat...
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- #1,209
side marker/signal led
- Thread starter
- #1,210
I still have an issue with the right side marker light, but at least there are now signals
Did you find three wire lights?
- Thread starter
- #1,212
I did.... though there's an issue with them - they work as signal or marker, but when the marker lights are on they won't work as a signal.... oh well.
That is quite odd. I would think a 3 wire light would allow both elements to be used at the same time.
- Thread starter
- #1,214
I should have known better - the LED is the same as the cheap ones but with a do-hicky wired in
Are you running LED tail lights? Just curious about your blinker relay.
Maybe you can drill the housing for two 2 wire LEDs, one turn and one running.
Maybe you can drill the housing for two 2 wire LEDs, one turn and one running.
- Thread starter
- #1,216
I have a retrofit blinker relay (one that has a ground). I really need to change the emergency flasher one as well, but since the front signals are normal bulbs, the standard relay kind of sort of works in a haphazard manner
You could wire them with a relay on each? When one is turned on (or blinks) the other turns off..... if you have blinkers up front, they would run opposite, but they would still work (technically you wouldn't need a 3 wire, though)
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- #1,218
did I ever mention I hate wiring? I can do monkey stuff (connect a to b) but anything else makes my head hurt
- Thread starter
- #1,219
Air cleaner, I don't like plastic and I found yet another problem that answers a few questions
someday I'll have my own roller... until then...
so this jams shut and since there's no heat riser, it makes the vehicle run rich....
it's gone now and now I have to set the timing (again)
someday I'll have my own roller... until then...
so this jams shut and since there's no heat riser, it makes the vehicle run rich....
it's gone now and now I have to set the timing (again)
It's been a while since I did this..... and I *think* this is right (you could test with a cheapo 1157 housing/bulb on the bench if you have one)....
30 = Positive wire originally headed to running light (now source of + signal for running lights)
87a = Positive wire headed to actual running light
85 = Positive wire tapped into turn signal wire
86 = Ground
I'm trying to remember - but what this effectively does is allow the "turn on" to be normal for running lights - and when you hit the blinker, it uses the relay to cut power to the light (and when the flasher kicks off, the relay would then kick back on... effectively acting as a blinker).
However... something in my brain is telling me this would only work so long as the running lights are on..... (hence why I'm thinking a bench test might help)