Well said Matt!!
Builds Shipwreck (11 Viewers)
- Thread starter SuperBuickGuy
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Well said Matt!!
- Thread starter
- #802
ADD strikes again, I'm on the brakes and air system... and promptly stopped. It hardly seems worth the effort to update...
fitment issue
my goal is to finish the brake lines, run the main power cables, brace the battery hole, and then put the body on for real. we will see...
fitment issue
my goal is to finish the brake lines, run the main power cables, brace the battery hole, and then put the body on for real. we will see...
- Thread starter
- #803
fair enough. that is the first I've heard anyone say they found something constructive about the thread of this vehicle on Pirate... moving on...
- Thread starter
- #804
The long dark teatime of the FJ40
Tonight was the classic start, find a missing piece, stop, go to something else, repeat 3x...
first on the agenda was cutting the flares down
stopped there because too hot and need flap disk to finish
onto mounting the tank... I got more fittings and started aiming towards solution
I got the fittings for the compressor and spent some quality time being sure the out really was the out
but got stopped because some parts that were supposed to be here Tuesday still aren't... oh well, I should probably have the tub mounted to put the oil/water separator on
I got my exhaust clamps, but quickly realized that the pipe from the header to the cat was damaged more than I originally thought - so another 2 days waiting for 2 1/2 stainless tube stopped that
built my battery cables (negative), but then couldn't find a stainless bolt to weld into place for the ground...
I also need to build the box and that requires argon - which I ran out while tacking together a box for my wife....
I did get my holley fuel mat but the tank is in the body - and I still don't have the last pieces (the bulkhead fitting) so even if I dug it out, it'd be another bit sitting
Tonight was the classic start, find a missing piece, stop, go to something else, repeat 3x...
first on the agenda was cutting the flares down
stopped there because too hot and need flap disk to finish
onto mounting the tank... I got more fittings and started aiming towards solution
I got the fittings for the compressor and spent some quality time being sure the out really was the out
but got stopped because some parts that were supposed to be here Tuesday still aren't... oh well, I should probably have the tub mounted to put the oil/water separator on
I got my exhaust clamps, but quickly realized that the pipe from the header to the cat was damaged more than I originally thought - so another 2 days waiting for 2 1/2 stainless tube stopped that
built my battery cables (negative), but then couldn't find a stainless bolt to weld into place for the ground...
I also need to build the box and that requires argon - which I ran out while tacking together a box for my wife....
I did get my holley fuel mat but the tank is in the body - and I still don't have the last pieces (the bulkhead fitting) so even if I dug it out, it'd be another bit sitting
I can tell that you are detail oriented, so here's a suggestion that you may likely already know. My local Ace Hardware has brass plugs that take an Allen wrench. They tend to seat flush and much lower profile than the standard wrench type plugs that you used on your air tank.
- Thread starter
- #806
The only Ace local to me is right next to a a neighborhood that where the cheap homes start at 10 million - they boast about their lattes and how they can mix the perfect pastel 
However, we have a couple places up here that are probably similar to your Ace (I've seen decent ones) McClendon's Hardware and Tacoma screw. thanks, finding fittings can be a pain - as evidenced by my continued lack of the T for my brake line.
However, we have a couple places up here that are probably similar to your Ace (I've seen decent ones) McClendon's Hardware and Tacoma screw. thanks, finding fittings can be a pain - as evidenced by my continued lack of the T for my brake line.
- Thread starter
- #807
thoughts?
Digital Guard Dawg - PBS-TR
I think, rather then brake-pedal activation that I'd simply put a button on the dash to push since having to hold the brake when you're using the starter to move the vehicle would kind of defeat the purpose....
and I'd either put a slot in the dash or the sensor in the driver's seat....
and those who refuse to relinquish their keys - a daily activity in my house is my wife looking for the keys for her Jeep (granted, if I had a Jeep I'd lose the keys too) and more to the point, this card would float - which is more than I can say about the keys from my boat that a soon-to-be-ex threw from the boat to me .... anyway, I think this could work pretty well and make the vehicle more secure (especially since all the controllers for the motor and such are inside the dash)....
but I'll be interested to hear your thoughts... which is why I posted and said "thoughts?"
Digital Guard Dawg - PBS-TR
I think, rather then brake-pedal activation that I'd simply put a button on the dash to push since having to hold the brake when you're using the starter to move the vehicle would kind of defeat the purpose....
and I'd either put a slot in the dash or the sensor in the driver's seat....
and those who refuse to relinquish their keys - a daily activity in my house is my wife looking for the keys for her Jeep (granted, if I had a Jeep I'd lose the keys too
) and more to the point, this card would float - which is more than I can say about the keys from my boat that a soon-to-be-ex threw from the boat to me .... anyway, I think this could work pretty well and make the vehicle more secure (especially since all the controllers for the motor and such are inside the dash)....but I'll be interested to hear your thoughts... which is why I posted and said "thoughts?"
thoughts?
Digital Guard Dawg - PBS-TR
I think, rather then brake-pedal activation that I'd simply put a button on the dash to push since having to hold the brake when you're using the starter to move the vehicle would kind of defeat the purpose....
and I'd either put a slot in the dash or the sensor in the driver's seat....
and those who refuse to relinquish their keys - a daily activity in my house is my wife looking for the keys for her Jeep (granted, if I had a Jeep I'd lose the keys too
but I'll be interested to hear your thoughts... which is why I posted and said "thoughts?"
It's, none of my business, but I found it intriguing that you have a wife and a soon-to-be ex... But, let's leave that for another thread...
I think this looks like a great system... With the antenna in the driver's seat and the card in your wallet and your wallet in your hip pocket!!
I can no longer carry my wallet in my hip pocket, so I would have to wave the card.
But, a good solution nonetheless!!
- Thread starter
- #809
I couldn't remember the past perfect term for one who was at the time a girlfriend but got curbed and became a SEP* there is nothing nefarious. People keep telling me that King Solomon was the wisest man who ever lived; but with 1000 plus wives, I find that assertion hard to believe because I have enough trouble with one.
*you'll have to look it up, search google for Douglas Adams and a SEP device.
*you'll have to look it up, search google for Douglas Adams and a SEP device.
I would just recommend a LOJack system, that way even if it gets stolen by winched onto a flatbed, the police can track it. I have a kill switch and a club on the steering wheel. It wont keep it from getting stolen, but the club says go away. If they persist it wont start. If they tow it away somehow, I get a bunch of money from insurance hopefully and take up a new hobby of some sort.
- Thread starter
- #811
that hobby would be hunting down thieves. I have a very dim view of people who steal another's tools - in the way-back-time machine there's a story about how I lost all of my tools then couldn't take a really cool job at a speed shop because I had no tools and no money to buy them.
I'm lower-tech on how to track a car. First, the problem, if your car is stolen you have to call lo-jack to trace it. They call the cops. I cut out the middle man. Best of all, they won't tell you where your car is - but will only tell law enforcement. Instead, I wire a cell phone into the charging system, turn off the ringer, wire the camera, hide it on the car before I put it back together. If it gets stolen, I then go solve the theft problem myself (and a few of my friends). It's called "self-help recovery"... works great, unless you're the thief. If the thief is lucky, it only ends up with a few bruises when it tripped and fell. That said, this time I'm likely to use a variation of a SPOT satellite receiver since I get discounts on those an their monitoring because of my volunteer work.
though the last time it was some illegal trying to steal a stereo out of a friend's car while we were inside the house. first time I ever saw someone pee their pants (he's 250, 6-6 and had a 44 in this little kid's crotch)... cops were even funnier. They arrived, saw the pants and went back to his car and got his gloves so he didn't have to touch the soiled thief. The report was even a funnier read... "I pulled up to Roger's house and found a very wet, scared thief...." I honestly don't know which was funnier, that he referred to my friend by his first name (expecting the various readers to know who Roger is) or the wet part....
and with all that said, here's another reason why not. I have a relative that he'll be a good guy eventually, but until then he'll continue to make some pretty dumb decisions. He stole a truck of mine (more directly, didn't bring it back when he was supposed to). So I traced the truck and got it back from him - if the police had been involved, he would have had his troubles plus a potential criminal record problem...
I'm lower-tech on how to track a car. First, the problem, if your car is stolen you have to call lo-jack to trace it. They call the cops. I cut out the middle man. Best of all, they won't tell you where your car is - but will only tell law enforcement. Instead, I wire a cell phone into the charging system, turn off the ringer, wire the camera, hide it on the car before I put it back together. If it gets stolen, I then go solve the theft problem myself (and a few of my friends). It's called "self-help recovery"... works great, unless you're the thief. If the thief is lucky, it only ends up with a few bruises when it tripped and fell. That said, this time I'm likely to use a variation of a SPOT satellite receiver since I get discounts on those an their monitoring because of my volunteer work.
though the last time it was some illegal trying to steal a stereo out of a friend's car while we were inside the house. first time I ever saw someone pee their pants (he's 250, 6-6 and had a 44 in this little kid's crotch)... cops were even funnier. They arrived, saw the pants and went back to his car and got his gloves so he didn't have to touch the soiled thief. The report was even a funnier read... "I pulled up to Roger's house and found a very wet, scared thief...." I honestly don't know which was funnier, that he referred to my friend by his first name (expecting the various readers to know who Roger is) or the wet part....
and with all that said, here's another reason why not. I have a relative that he'll be a good guy eventually, but until then he'll continue to make some pretty dumb decisions. He stole a truck of mine (more directly, didn't bring it back when he was supposed to). So I traced the truck and got it back from him - if the police had been involved, he would have had his troubles plus a potential criminal record problem...
- Thread starter
- #812
So, since everyone seems to be against it (though the suggestion of a key in lock box kind of seems to be adding a layer of complexity - after all, if I lose the keys, how do I get into the lockbox?) I'll go ahead and do it
until then... today was a short day because of dogs
I got the "antifreeze" that isn't - it's good from 40 degrees and won't boil up to 375 degrees. Everyone whines about cooling issues. This should solve it since this is a far better cooling fluid - it should, at $45/gallon it's not cheap. Oh and in other news, the people that say filling the dry block is 2.5 gallon are a bunch of liars. It's more than 3 gallons and that is without the heater cores
clean bench = sick mind... I'm obviously right as rain
anyway, I begrudgingly decided to do this the right way (well that and I didn't completely fasten the bracket on so I had to take it apart anyway
I'm sure this picture is showing something important... can't think what it is... but something
*&(^^***@@@@!!!! GM engineers
they soldered the loop back onto the back of the reservoir.... fortunately, I have tools and torches and have no fear of using them (even incorrectly)
for those who think I can't weld, don't look at this next picture
onto the fuel pump... don't ask me if it's on the right way - I've no idea
and mount the air compressor tank
gratuitous picture of the frame
wiring of the EFI
I've decided that I'm utterly sick of tracing bad butt-connection joints and non-waterproof connects. Now I've hidden them and made them even harder to trace.. smart, huh?
and about instructions - I've read about 100 different ways of making the joints "perfect" they're all full of Jeep - the easiest way is simply bend the tabs over, then use the crimp device to give them a final crimp....
main power lines are run and started brake lines.... and that's it for tonight, thanks for reading
until then... today was a short day because of dogs
I got the "antifreeze" that isn't - it's good from 40 degrees and won't boil up to 375 degrees. Everyone whines about cooling issues. This should solve it since this is a far better cooling fluid - it should, at $45/gallon it's not cheap. Oh and in other news, the people that say filling the dry block is 2.5 gallon are a bunch of liars. It's more than 3 gallons and that is without the heater cores
clean bench = sick mind... I'm obviously right as rain
anyway, I begrudgingly decided to do this the right way (well that and I didn't completely fasten the bracket on so I had to take it apart anyway
I'm sure this picture is showing something important... can't think what it is... but something
*&(^^***@@@@!!!! GM engineers
they soldered the loop back onto the back of the reservoir.... fortunately, I have tools and torches and have no fear of using them (even incorrectly)
for those who think I can't weld, don't look at this next picture
onto the fuel pump... don't ask me if it's on the right way - I've no idea
and mount the air compressor tank
gratuitous picture of the frame
wiring of the EFI
I've decided that I'm utterly sick of tracing bad butt-connection joints and non-waterproof connects. Now I've hidden them and made them even harder to trace.. smart, huh?
and about instructions - I've read about 100 different ways of making the joints "perfect" they're all full of Jeep - the easiest way is simply bend the tabs over, then use the crimp device to give them a final crimp....
main power lines are run and started brake lines.... and that's it for tonight, thanks for reading
- Thread starter
- #813
Recap
the motivation behind this....while it's certainly gone further than I originally envisioned, the basic idea is the same. I want something I can drive anywhere and come home in. Honestly, I'm going to put a script on it that says "if this is on a trailer, call the Police it's being stolen." I didn't go with an LS because it's just more money for 300 hp and 400 lb torque. It's also quite capable, should zombies (haha) ever attempt to rule to have a carb bolted on, mech. fuel pump attached and a points distributor put in place. It's a 5 speed because I still think automatic transmissions have a demon inside (almost serious there). It's a dana 300 transfer case because I don't need a billet case to prove my metal or manhood. It's a Dana 60 because - 300 hp. It's a dana 44 because it's 300 hp.
It's going to look nice because I utterly cannot stand to drive crap-looking cars. With that said, I think rat rods are really cool - just not for me.
And finally, I think ICON is a remarkable, talented company. I also think their rigs are more show then go - but, if someone said to me (when it's done) that they didn't know I could afford an ICON built FJ40 - that would be highest praise. That said, this still has one major purchase, but it'll probably not happen before it's on the road. Maxxis 40s (or Toyo, not picky) with Raceline bead locks.... but as that's about $5000 for a set of 5.... it may be a bit... also a selectable for the front axle... but at this moment, this is just fine and I may do the dana 50 upgrade that SuperJeep's owner does, if so, I would have to buy a different locker.... but we'll see at that time. at this moment, I'm focusing on getting it running by Jan 1.
the motivation behind this....while it's certainly gone further than I originally envisioned, the basic idea is the same. I want something I can drive anywhere and come home in. Honestly, I'm going to put a script on it that says "if this is on a trailer, call the Police it's being stolen." I didn't go with an LS because it's just more money for 300 hp and 400 lb torque. It's also quite capable, should zombies (haha) ever attempt to rule to have a carb bolted on, mech. fuel pump attached and a points distributor put in place. It's a 5 speed because I still think automatic transmissions have a demon inside (almost serious there). It's a dana 300 transfer case because I don't need a billet case to prove my metal or manhood. It's a Dana 60 because - 300 hp. It's a dana 44 because it's 300 hp.
It's going to look nice because I utterly cannot stand to drive crap-looking cars. With that said, I think rat rods are really cool - just not for me.
And finally, I think ICON is a remarkable, talented company. I also think their rigs are more show then go - but, if someone said to me (when it's done) that they didn't know I could afford an ICON built FJ40 - that would be highest praise. That said, this still has one major purchase, but it'll probably not happen before it's on the road. Maxxis 40s (or Toyo, not picky) with Raceline bead locks.... but as that's about $5000 for a set of 5.... it may be a bit... also a selectable for the front axle... but at this moment, this is just fine and I may do the dana 50 upgrade that SuperJeep's owner does, if so, I would have to buy a different locker.... but we'll see at that time. at this moment, I'm focusing on getting it running by Jan 1.
- Thread starter
- #814
the end is in sight... I'm ordering rubber(s) for it.
and it's in sight because they hold in the windows
*groan*
and it's in sight because they hold in the windows
*groan*
thoughts?
Digital Guard Dawg - PBS-TR
I think, rather then brake-pedal activation that I'd simply put a button on the dash to push since having to hold the brake when you're using the starter to move the vehicle would kind of defeat the purpose....
and I'd either put a slot in the dash or the sensor in the driver's seat....
and those who refuse to relinquish their keys - a daily activity in my house is my wife looking for the keys for her Jeep (granted, if I had a Jeep I'd lose the keys too
but I'll be interested to hear your thoughts... which is why I posted and said "thoughts?"
I really like this! In fact, I think I'm going to bookmark that for my 40. I'm not thinking so much about theft protection (though that is a big deal), I'm remembering how many times I had to find my keys that fell out of the ignition while my truck is on it's side and idling...
- Thread starter
- #816
the biggest wait is I want to talk to someone who has actually used it... there is a wide price range on these... from less than $100 to $350 (which is kind of the median) to $700 plus for the painless system... and I'd love to hear why that is. Many of those systems tie into alarms as an add-on module... anyway, I'm sure one of my car-building friends will pipe up eventually...
but onto other stuff
stainless bolt welded to the battery tray....
stainless box which has nothing to do with this build
according to the instructions, these wires are color coded... yeah... good thing I have a label machine
so I cut off the newer connection and used a delphi connection on both sides.... now the injectors should work. I shudder to think of just how many things have to work for this to fire....
that said I am getting better at these connectors so perhaps all will be well.... it's possible, but if it is perfect, I won't be playing the lottery every again because I'll have used up all my luck
but onto other stuff
stainless bolt welded to the battery tray....
stainless box which has nothing to do with this build
according to the instructions, these wires are color coded... yeah... good thing I have a label machine
so I cut off the newer connection and used a delphi connection on both sides.... now the injectors should work. I shudder to think of just how many things have to work for this to fire....
that said I am getting better at these connectors so perhaps all will be well.... it's possible, but if it is perfect, I won't be playing the lottery every again because I'll have used up all my luck
- Thread starter
- #817
So tracking/push button starting.... Innovative Ignition Systems|Universal Keyless Push Button Start Systems, Keyless Ignition Systems
GMS-31-RFID
Proximity sensing keyless entry+keyless push button start system+Smart Start+GPS+Bluetooth PKE
The GSM-31-RFID system is a must have for any auto enthusiast. Makes locking, unlocking and even starting your car hassle free. Never fumble for your key fob or car keys again, simply walk up to your vehicle and let the system take over. It will unlock the doors for you automatically, all you have to do from there is get in push the start button and drive away. Once you reach your destination, simply press the start button again to shut the vehicle off, exit the vehicle, leave proximity of your vehicle and the system will lock your doors for you. With the additional convenience of Bluetooth PKE, you no longer even need to carry a remote. Your smart phone is now your smart key, simply walk into proximity of the vehicle with your smart phone on you and the system will communicate with your smart phone through Bluetooth. Once in proximity the system will unlock all the doors for you and when you leave proximity the system will lock all the doors for you, same as using a smart key.This system also has GSM & GPS Technology so you can, lock, unlock & even remote start your vehicle all from the convenience of your smart phone + track your vehicle from virtually anywhere. What are you waiting for? Grab your GSM-31-RFID system now and lose your keys for good!
this is really interesting to me, I have a friend who just recovered his FJ40 because it had tracking in it.... so this gets me my 3 levels of protection:
1) Snohomish County Sheriff SAR sticker... you screw with this car, the owner is friends with the Sheriff... if that doesn't bother you
2) find the key, methhead... and
3) if you do manage to move it, I'll track you and you'll wish the Sheriff found you....
and finally, there's a bonus.
My wife has trouble keeping her keys attached to herself. I can literally start the vehicle wherever a cell-tower can reach (beside the hidden start and the key fob start) I can start the vehicle.
and it has an annoying alarm.
$450 seems pretty cheap, especially since there is no monitoring charges
thoughts, again...?
this company also has a very basic RFID system as well that would be an option...
GMS-31-RFID
Proximity sensing keyless entry+keyless push button start system+Smart Start+GPS+Bluetooth PKE
The GSM-31-RFID system is a must have for any auto enthusiast. Makes locking, unlocking and even starting your car hassle free. Never fumble for your key fob or car keys again, simply walk up to your vehicle and let the system take over. It will unlock the doors for you automatically, all you have to do from there is get in push the start button and drive away. Once you reach your destination, simply press the start button again to shut the vehicle off, exit the vehicle, leave proximity of your vehicle and the system will lock your doors for you. With the additional convenience of Bluetooth PKE, you no longer even need to carry a remote. Your smart phone is now your smart key, simply walk into proximity of the vehicle with your smart phone on you and the system will communicate with your smart phone through Bluetooth. Once in proximity the system will unlock all the doors for you and when you leave proximity the system will lock all the doors for you, same as using a smart key.This system also has GSM & GPS Technology so you can, lock, unlock & even remote start your vehicle all from the convenience of your smart phone + track your vehicle from virtually anywhere. What are you waiting for? Grab your GSM-31-RFID system now and lose your keys for good!
this is really interesting to me, I have a friend who just recovered his FJ40 because it had tracking in it.... so this gets me my 3 levels of protection:
1) Snohomish County Sheriff SAR sticker... you screw with this car, the owner is friends with the Sheriff... if that doesn't bother you
2) find the key, methhead... and
3) if you do manage to move it, I'll track you and you'll wish the Sheriff found you....
and finally, there's a bonus.
My wife has trouble keeping her keys attached to herself. I can literally start the vehicle wherever a cell-tower can reach (beside the hidden start and the key fob start) I can start the vehicle.
and it has an annoying alarm.
$450 seems pretty cheap, especially since there is no monitoring charges
thoughts, again...?
this company also has a very basic RFID system as well that would be an option...
I would think the locking feature would be useless since a 40 doesn't have electric doors. The other concern...is it waterproof? And what do you do if the battery is dead? Does it mess with the systems memory in which you have to reset some stuff? What if a thief parks it in a garage somewhere? Also, I am curious about hearing what happened to your buddy's 40, and did the thieves get caught?
- Thread starter
- #819
nutshell is they went to a market and it was stolen from the market (they saw it drive away). They had tracking, so they got to the FJ that night, there was question about the police's willingness to help but in the end they got their rig back but none of the tools that were in it. This is in Bolivia. I haven't heard what happened with the people where the vehicle was found or the thief.... probably nothing...
If someone wants it enough, they'll get it.
They could also tow it to a place devoid of cell phone coverage and it'd not be found either... they're not driving it without substantial work... and I'm not making it easy for them to trace the wires.
with that said, the batteries are hidden under the floor and the cables that run from them are not easily accessable. Plus, there's a 50/50 chance that if they cut only one, they'd cut the wrong one. Nothing is perfect, but bringing the odds to more in my favor would be good too. Also, all the electronics are not quickly accessible...
also, it's RFID, that's not battery powered, the codes are always hard-stored so if it totally lost power for weeks, the moment it gets power it is active. There is also a way of starting it by entering a code if the fobs die.
as for the door locks, I'm not sure what issue you're seeing with that. It doesn't have door e-locks, simply don't run that wire?
the issues I see:
1) the number of antennas, there are 3 antennas that must be in the air.
2) I still get deals on SPOT, so the coverage issue wouldn't be an issues if I went with Sat tracking rather than cell phone (GSM)
3) water is still an issue, but I've created a dry-space in the dash.. infiltration from fording rivers, my issue wouldn't be the ignition, it'd be the efi computer.
If someone wants it enough, they'll get it.
They could also tow it to a place devoid of cell phone coverage and it'd not be found either... they're not driving it without substantial work... and I'm not making it easy for them to trace the wires.
with that said, the batteries are hidden under the floor and the cables that run from them are not easily accessable. Plus, there's a 50/50 chance that if they cut only one, they'd cut the wrong one. Nothing is perfect, but bringing the odds to more in my favor would be good too. Also, all the electronics are not quickly accessible...
also, it's RFID, that's not battery powered, the codes are always hard-stored so if it totally lost power for weeks, the moment it gets power it is active. There is also a way of starting it by entering a code if the fobs die.
as for the door locks, I'm not sure what issue you're seeing with that. It doesn't have door e-locks, simply don't run that wire?
the issues I see:
1) the number of antennas, there are 3 antennas that must be in the air.
2) I still get deals on SPOT, so the coverage issue wouldn't be an issues if I went with Sat tracking rather than cell phone (GSM)
3) water is still an issue, but I've created a dry-space in the dash.. infiltration from fording rivers, my issue wouldn't be the ignition, it'd be the efi computer.
- Thread starter
- #820
exhausting work
reminder, it looked like this
now this
with some welding on the header as well
reminder, it looked like this
now this
with some welding on the header as well
