So, since everyone seems to be against it (though the suggestion of a key in lock box kind of seems to be adding a layer of complexity - after all, if I lose the keys, how do I get into the lockbox?) I'll go ahead and do it
until then... today was a short day because of dogs
I got the "antifreeze" that isn't - it's good from 40 degrees and won't boil up to 375 degrees. Everyone whines about cooling issues. This should solve it since this is a far better cooling fluid - it should, at $45/gallon it's not cheap. Oh and in other news, the people that say filling the dry block is 2.5 gallon are a bunch of liars. It's more than 3 gallons and that is without the heater cores
clean bench = sick mind... I'm obviously right as rain
anyway, I begrudgingly decided to do this the right way (well that and I didn't completely fasten the bracket on so I had to take it apart anyway
I'm sure this picture is showing something important... can't think what it is... but something
*&(^^***@@@@!!!! GM engineers
they soldered the loop back onto the back of the reservoir.... fortunately, I have tools and torches and have no fear of using them (even incorrectly)
for those who think I can't weld, don't look at this next picture
onto the fuel pump... don't ask me if it's on the right way - I've no idea
and mount the air compressor tank
gratuitous picture of the frame
wiring of the EFI
I've decided that I'm utterly sick of tracing bad butt-connection joints and non-waterproof connects. Now I've hidden them and made them even harder to trace.. smart, huh?
and about instructions - I've read about 100 different ways of making the joints "perfect" they're all full of Jeep - the easiest way is simply bend the tabs over, then use the crimp device to give them a final crimp....
main power lines are run and started brake lines.... and that's it for tonight, thanks for reading
