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Hydraulic can need adjusting for wear over time. Not much, but a little. Adjusting should remove the valve noise which might held the knock counts if I am getting them. I have not performed a data logging run in a while.

I run Diesel synthetic. It has the level of ZDDP for flat tappet cams. I just don't like the cams. What actually happened was that I installed a sort-of RV cam with stronger springs. I didn't know I needed to keep the stock springs in for the break-in process. I also had the timing way off and no tach. It took effort to keep the engine alive for 20 minutes and I also ran at much higher RPMs then I should have. I believe I killed the cam at that time. Not worth the money and effort to replace the cam and lifters on a 305. I can buy a 350 for just a little more.

SuperBuickGuy said:
hydraulic shouldn't ever need adjusting... and I wouldn't blame yourself, reduction of zinc in oil has caused many cams to go flat
Click to expand...
 
several swap meets are coming up in the next few months - cheap place to buy cams :)

or

I have this large by huge solid lifter cam we could try in it o_O

in other news, I got my brake pressure gauge.... come on by this weekend and we can test it
 
I am working with my son on his school assignments that are due Monday. Not sure I will have time this weekend for anything else. If I do I would love to stop by. I need to swap in my new rear brake pads and try to solve my windshield wiper woes first. Brakes, one hour. Wipers... not sure. I do not want to drive with a failing wiper in the rain. Sucks.
 
understandable, I'd like to go skiing, but it all depends on when the snow level drops from 8k feet to 5k or lower
misc stuff
the water pump is leaking, and there's a sound like the timing chain is rubbing on the timing cover.... both require draining the system...


onto adjusting valves


and buttoned back up

funny, I couldn't figure out why the motor was turning over so hard.... I suppose it being in gear would do that...

this, is an awesome purchase.... perfect flares every time


now you see it


now you don't


and I still don't think I have enough volume going to the slave cylinder... the FJ40 cylinder is ~5/8, this one is 7/8, the recommendation is 3/4.... problem is I have 1 1/4" travel available on the slave and only using about 1/2 of that (5/8").... which is a volume issue. but more playing with it is going to occur. I have several master cylinders, so next will be a 1" bore.... and we'll see.
 
brought to you by the same folks who predicted flooding 3 hours after it had already started? I whined to KOMO's head meterologist about a prior "you really screwed up" forecast and he explained that they had this new computer system that was, in short, wrong. I argued back to him that anyone who lived in the PNW knew that what happens after the precipitating event was the wind event - that he should take the wheel from the computers a bit more often.... he disagreed.

we're getting a storm out of the south, and eventually we'll get cold air out of the north... what they're predicting now makes no sense that somehow we're going to get cold air out of the south... I think eventually they'll be right and it may snow tomorrow in the valley.... but for skiing, if it is raining now (and it is), it takes at least 24 hours to transition to snow. Rain is the most miserable ski condition, followed closely by the transition day where the snow becomes a big, white ice cube... it needs to snow awhile before I go back up... so the jury is still out.
 
Sometimes I think the news meteorologists look outside to see if it's raining before stating the obvious on the air. It might be fun to mess with their computer models and watch them give some truly wacky predictions. Like when it's cold and raining have them predict 95 degree temps and sun.

The other day on our snow wheeling trip they were predicting snow and we saw none of that. Oh well, life goes on.
 
eastwood.... it's not cheap, but my goodness. The last time I did a full brake system it took me 2 solid days of bending, cutting, rebending, buying more brake line, and so on.... this took 2 hours and every connection was fluid-tight. Not just that, but it's so easy: cut, de-burr, use some anti-seize once on the tool, use # zero (on the tool) to set up, tighten clamp, then do the number of steps required (1 or 2) and you're done. And best of all, it doesn't leak...

it took longer to get the air out of the system.
 
At least you were ABLE to get the air out. I have never had to fight over brake bleeding until now. Decided to drive with the air in it for now. Contemplating paying a shop to bleed it if they can guarantee not to charge me if they don't get the air out.
 
no, and which leak? I pressurized the oil system and found a leak at the timing cover. I am using a two-piece cover that I probably wouldn't have used if I hadn't already owned it.... after all, I won't be adjusting the cam timing so two piece is one-piece more that can leak (and it did). I think, though, it was simply because the front bolts weren't tight. When I did the inadvertent drop test, it dented the pan so I fixed it and put the skid plate on.... when I put it back together, I was missing a bolt...

On my Corvette, I paid a shop to bleed the brakes. Because the master cylinder is so low compared to the 2-per-wheel bleed valves - it became a matter of paying a little to bleed the brakes and prevent me from burning the car down out of frustration.

with that said, I have a pressure bleeder - the problem that I've found when brakes just don't seem to ever bleed all the air out is a fitting that isn't letting fluid out but is letting air in. We will solve it, you'll bring it by and we'll put it on the lift and do a full system check.... a lot of stuff needs two people to effectively eliminate - and doing those tests on a lift is better for old folks like me.
 
next weekend, I'll be down in your neck of the woods in the morning - the Corvette swap meet is happening Sat/Sun, after noon, I'll be back in the shop.
 
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