Installing a Yaesu FT-2800M into a Toyota FJ-60
I needed to install a ham radio into my FJ-60.
Here is some background information. I’ve own several Icom dual band radios (2720) and one - 2 meter VHF IC-V8000. I also have several older Yaesu FT-2400 2 meter radios that I’ve used in a Jeep, full size and classic Broncos, and a couple of “Go Boxes”. I like dual band radios that allow running 2 meter frequencies on “both sides” of the radio simultaneously. I also like the option of a removable face plate that allows mounting the body of the radio separately from the face plate. This is very beneficial if space is an issue. However, for an off road vehicle I wanted a radio that was very rugged and it possible transmit more than 50 watts. I was “window shopping” on eHam and found a great buy on a FT-2800M. I liked the high power (65 watts), large heat sink, and large display.
Plan “A” - keep the aftermarket AM/FM/CD radio that came with the 60 and mount the ham radio in the lockable radio compartment of the Smitybilt center console I installed. However, when my 60 arrived I discovered the AM/FM/CD radio didn’t work and the door and rear quarter panel speakers were looking very, very sad. (I bought my 60 from a dealer on line so there were many surprises in store for me.)
Plan “B” – Buy a new AM/FM/CD radio and mount it in the Smitybilt center console and mount the ham radio in the stock radio location and external speaker in the stock radio speaker location also. This will 1) make both radios more secure; 2) proved a clutter free dash; 3) provide air circulation around the ham radio. The lockable radio compartment was the right size for the ham radio but there would have been little to no extra space for air circulation.
I found instructions regarding dash removable on a great FJ-60 site,
www.thewagonway.com. This was extremely helpful because I was having difficulty removing the broken radio. I happen to have a “parts” 60 that allowed me to “practice” dash removal and reinstallation. I used that dash to fab up the radio and speaker mount so my running 60 would not be unavailable. I didn’t want to remove the dash multiple times so I made a coax pig tail and a power cord extension with the fuse holder mounted on the dash.
Tools – 10mm wrenches, flat head and phillips screw driver (dash and stock radio mount removal), dremel tool with small cut off wheels (“fine” mount fabrication); chop saw/hack saw (“gross” mount fabrication), power drill (mount fabrication); soldering iron (speaker wire, power cord extension, and coax pig tail); wire crimper tool (Anderson Powerpole connectors), heat gun (shrink tubing)
Materials – red/black zip power cord and Anderson Powerpole connectors (power cord extension); coax and connectors (pig tail); external speaker; panel mount fuse holder with fuse; barrel connector (connect the coax pig tail to the antenna coax); split wire loom (protection for coax, power cord extension, speaker wire), flat and “L” shaped metal (bracket); 4 nuts/bolts/flat and lock washers (fabricators choice for bracket fabrication); loctite (nuts/bolts on bracket – not for mount to dash); heat shrink tubing (power cord /fuse holder)
Step 1 – remove the dash by following the instructions provided by Tony K. on the
www.thewagonway.com site.
Step 2 – remove the stock radio mounting brackets (if applicable) 2 - 10mm nuts hold each bracket. Use the “foot” of each bracket as a template for the base of the new bracket or measure the distance of the two mounting bolts attached to the dash for the base of the new bracket. You will need to make two brackets.
Photo 1 -
Here’s a photo showing the stock radio brackets.
Step 3 – Fab mounting brackets.
I had some “L” shaped metal that I thought would work. I ended up not using it because it didn’t allow for adjustments.
Photo 2 and 3
So, I bought two types of metal, a L shaped and flat stock (I don’t know the official name of the metal; the picture should help). Photos 3 & 4
I cut these to match the dimensions of the L shaped brackets in photos 2 & 3.
Here is one of the brackets. The bolts are loose so the upright looks uneven. I made two of these. I cut extra holes to allow for fine adjustments.
Photo 4 - I cut up on the “L” shaped bracket to allow for tightening the bolts with the brackets tight up against the bolts.
Photo 5 - The front of the radio is on the left side of the bracket.
Photo 6 - Here’s a shot of the speaker. I placed a piece of closed cell foam on the magnet to separate it from the metal strap. The orientation of this photo would be looking back from the hood toward the front seat.
Photo 7 - I drilled a couple of holes on this vent and the vent that feeds the driver and I did the same on the vent that feeds the passenger. This will help keep the radio cool, I hope.
Photo 8 - Here’s a shot with everything installed. The flash on the camera shows the bracket. However, the bracket isn’t visible in “normal” light.
Photo 9 – Last shot
