Serpentine belt recommendations

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Simplespirit

Simplespirit

10 Year
Joined
Sep 2, 2015
Threads
14
Messages
249
Location
Places
My serpentine belt has started squeaking some at startup and the last replacement record I can find is about 60k back so I'm planning to swap it out. What is everyone using? Looks like dayco might be the OEM but I found a lot of 1st gen tundra owners using the gatorback line now made by continental. Jus wondering if dayco is fine or if I should spend a bit more. No idea what the current belt is.
 
I had the same cold start chirp. Belt looked ok but it had at least 75k on it so tried a new one to see if that would cure the chirp. Replaced the unknown belt with Gates Micro V K060882. It was around $25 on Amazon. Bando is another popular option. Personally I'll go back with OEM at the next TB service.

I still get a cold start belt squeak chirp, then after the engine is warm subsequent starts are quiet. I suspect it's dragging over the ps pulley. I checked the idler pulley and it shows it's still sitting in acceptable range between the hash marks, but I don't think it's tensioning the belt enough when cold.
 
My tensioner shows replacement 6k miles ago and is just offset from the middle hash so I don't think it is the issue. Not sure about the separate idler pulley. If the belt doesn't fix it I will replace the idler pulley.
 
Mitsuboshi is the OE belt. I'd use that or Bando as they are also an OE supplier and manufactured in the USA. Honestly, Dayco, Cont., and Gates all make good belts but they also make "economy" belts that are super cheap in price and quality. Buy one of the $15-25 belts vs the $7-10 ones.

I second trying to locate the cause of the chirp. While the tensioner might still hold tension, the pulley bearing can and will fail, shredding the belt. Mine did. Check it and the idler. A quick spin by hand will tell all. If its smooth and stops quickly, its good. If its chunky or spins freely, its time to replace.
 
What's the recommended serpentine belt service interval? I'm at 75k since belt and tensioner replacement that I completed at the first 90k TB/W service.
 
I don't think there is one. Everything I can find just shows inspection. Seems like most people replace at 90k interval or if chirping develops or wear signs are there (glazing, fraying, etc). My 180k was done 6k miles ago and the tensioner was replaced then but the drive belt and idler aren't noted as having been done.
 
Belts themselves rarely squeak on there own. Every time I've gotten a "squeaky" (chirp), replacing the idler pulley and/or tensioner bearing has cured it. The tell tell sign is chirp quiets down after warm up in early stage. I use HF $10 stethoscope (long screw driver works well also) to inspect bearings while cold then again when hot.

Flushing power steering with M1 full synthetic MV AFT, or any good synthetic ATF, really helps quit down this area as well.

Visually check the drive belt for excessive wear, frayed cords etc. When belt does need replacing OEM has served me well.

Note: I've found high pressure water sprayed on idler or tensioner bearings will cause chip to get really bad. The bearing seals fail, which leads to bearing failure, water speed this up. I no longer wash this area.
 
If you order the belt, go ahead and order a sealed 6203 bearing for the tensioner pulley for $5. The one I replaced was an NTN, but any good Japanese bearing will do. SKF, Nachi, NSK, FAG, etc.

Much cheaper than replacing the whole pulley for $60 and good chance it quiets your chirp.
 
Last edited:
When I had my serp. belt off, I checked all the pulleys and they spun freely (including the PS pulley). None of the pulleys make noise. The tensioner pulley spun freely, but the tensioner mechanism didn't want to move when I applied leverage to test it (was pretty stuck), but after spraying some break cleaner in the spring mechanism I was able to get it moving a bit, but I suspect its ready for replacement even though the bearing seems fine. Plan has been to closely monitor, and replace at the TB interval in about 15k miles.
 
Stuck tensioner could easily damage belt and cause squeaky belt. How it get that way, you doing deep water crossings or?
 
labcab said:
If you order the belt, go ahead and order a sealed 6203 bearing for the idler pulley for $5. The one I replaced was an NTN, but any good Japanese bearing will do. SKF, Nachi, NSK, FAG, etc.

Much cheaper than replacing the whole pulley for $60 and good chance it quiets your chirp.
Click to expand...
I've found the replacement tensioner bearing, outlast the OEM idler pulley assemble/bearing. Score one for non OEM.
 
2001LC said:
Stuck tensioner could easily damage belt and cause squeaky belt. How it get that way, you doing deep water crossings or?
Click to expand...
No deep crossings under my watch- the vehicle lived 165k miles in the MD/DC area all its life: so snow, lots of road chemicals, probably beach trips etc.

I will replace the entire tensioner assembly with OEM when I deconstruct everything to do the TB- if it lasts that long.....
 
labcab said:
If you order the belt, go ahead and order a sealed 6203 bearing for the idler pulley for $5. The one I replaced was an NTN, but any good Japanese bearing will do. SKF, Nachi, NSK, FAG, etc.

Much cheaper than replacing the whole pulley for $60 and good chance it quiets your chirp.
Click to expand...

6203 is for the tensioner, not idler.
 
Simplespirit said:
My serpentine belt has started squeaking some at startup and the last replacement record I can find is about 60k back so I'm planning to swap it out. What is everyone using? Looks like dayco might be the OEM but I found a lot of 1st gen tundra owners using the gatorback line now made by continental. Jus wondering if dayco is fine or if I should spend a bit more. No idea what the current belt is.
Click to expand...

I have had good luck with gatorback - I have installed it in previous cars with no problem.
 
Simplespirit said:
So I've narrowed my noise down to my PS pump/pulley. Going to try replacing the fluid and see if that gets me anywhere.
Click to expand...
I'm doing a flush as well. Pulling the reservoir and getting the internal screen is first order of business. I suspect it will take three flush, one qt. a time driving for the week in between each flush. At least that what the last under maintained rig took.
FWIW: Steering Flush & Cleaning

Once steering pump noise quiets down it helps isolate other sound from fan clutch, idler & tensioner bearings and compressor.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom