SEARS PM-1 battery voltage at rest? (1 Viewer)

[superjuice]

I don't regret the purchase(s), we just need to learn how to keep these pm-1's happy

Keep in mind I have a hellroaring unit BIC9500B. Tonite I am putting them (they combine at 13.6v and sperate at 13.2v) on the formention SEARS charger for a duration of 12 hours. I figure letting them combine will "equalize" them and save me the trouble of charging them seperatly. Both batteries were replaced within weeks of each other. I left the headlights on untill the voltage settled at 12.5. Voltage went to 12.7 after lights out. Connected the SEARS charger to the "main" battery and put it on the platinum setting as well as the 40 amp setting (recommended in the manual as well as on the charger).

The manual it reads (verbatum) under CHARGING :
"When the 2A, 15A, or 40A charge rate is selected, the charger is set to perform an automatic charge. When an automatic charge is performed, the charger changes to the maintaine mode (see below) automatically after the battery is charged.


Here's what I didnt realize.

this was below:

COMPLETION OF CHARGING: Charge completion is indicated by the CHARGED (green) LED; when lit, the charger has stopped charging and switched to the Maintain Mode of operation if the type selected was DEEP CYCLE or Die Hard Paltinum. For other battery types, the CHARGED LED comes on when the battery is charged enough for normal use. For those other battery types, charging will be complete when to voltage drops below 14V after the Charged LED comes on.

I never read the manual therefore never looked to see if the indicator was green

also below:
MAINTAIN MODE: When the charged (green) LED is lit, the charger has started Maintain Mode. This mode of operation is also known as Float-Mode monitoring. In this mode the charger keeps the battery fully charged by delivering a small current, when necessary. The voltage is maintained at a level determined by the BATTERY TYPE selected, NOTE: if the batery type is regular or AGM/Gel, the the CHARGED LED might be lit before Maintain Mode is started.

It also has a DESULFATION MODE: (not verbatum) activation of this mode is indicated by a blinking GHARGED LED. If successful the CHARGING LED will stop blinking and light continuously. Desulfation could take up to 10 hours. If desulfation fails charging aborts and the CHECK (red) LED will blink.

Sorry for the long post but the instructions dictate my approach to keeping my new set of PM-1's ALIVE...

I thank everyone for their contributions and keep the comments coming. I'm sure we can keep these batteries in service as long as we know their "needs"

 

[Salue]

I'm now regretting getting this battery when I needed one this summer. I thought this huge expenditure was a long term battery for when I got a winch together in a year or two. Now I'm wondering if it will last that long. The price was killer but I won't splurge again. The $90 Auto Zone batteries have worked well, as well as other premium batteries I've had, regular 6 yr batteries or so. Just thought this would do that plus be better for a big electric winch. Well...I didn't research it well enough I guess.

Oh well....

As for replacements with Sears...I've read more trouble with this than good experiences...another thing I didn't realize before purchasing it. I have a half hour commute each way to work. Hope it gives me better life than others here are seeing.

Why do you regret getting this battery? Are you having issues with it or is it just because you're reading a few others issues?
I've been running dual PM2's (similar) and haven't had any issues with them and am just wondering what problems you're having. Mine is not a DD and it constantly sits for weeks at a time without being started. Still, it has started every time I go to start it for the past 2 years 9 months.

 

[wct49]

Went to SEARS yesterday and got a new battery (for free) under warranty. Word of advise, don't tell them its been in a vehicle! They wanted to test it in the vehicle but i told them I woulden't let them touch my truck I dont know how many times they said its not supposed to be used for a starting battery, my response was that it was an off road vehicle that wasnt driven alot (half true)

So i brought it in and they put it on some handheld electronic gismo that said it was "good". I told them it wasn't and to check it again. They checked it again and said it was good so i coulden't have a replacement.

Mad as hell i walked out and bought a load tester from the tool section and cooked it a few times in the parking lot. Brought it back in and said to check it one more time for heck of it. Now its (BAD) Ended up walking out with a new battery.

Its not in yet but i did swap the "backup" battery to the "main" battery location and have much better at rest voltage 12.9v.

That's my battery story...for now

I have this battery in my 76 40 and have had the same problem with Sears as you had. Even in my shop when we test it it comes up a good battery.
I put yellow tops in my 80 around the same time, 2yrs ago, and one of them is bad also.

 

[superjuice]

Does anyone run single or dual Sears PM-1's and check their voltage regularly? Perhaps even use the recommended charger and/or have a 150amp alternaator? fat chance i'm sure but just wondering why every time I put it on the charger it says 70-77% charged (done every 3-4 days b/c batteries were replaced recently, read the first post's).

Once i left the CarPuter on for two days (draws 1.2A with ignition on, 800ma ign. off) and it showed 55% when I charged it again. Is this reasonable? I feel as if my alternator is showing the correct charging voltage but not actually charging the batteries.


I have to thank WILLEM from the CENTRAFUSE forum for having a land cruiser and caring about the OEM implemtation Given I do have more than the average amp draw but only 800ma (double the norm due to constant OBDII usage, usb OBDII reader draws 300ma constantly unless fuse is pulled) but I don't see that being an issue after just a a day or two with a battery having 1150CCA 205 RC (second battery is backup only, nothing else connected but the isolator).

When I charge both batteries overnight (equalizing them) the the in dash meter shows 13.4 before startup(just after removing the charger) but drops to 12.5 while starting. Only drive 2 miles to work and in dash voltmeter shows 14.2 while driving. When i get home and hook up the charger it reads 77% charged again, and takes 4-6 hours to top off 100%.

I know the % value is just a voltage reading compared to a pre determined value in the charger but does anyone else use this charger with the PM-1 and see similar results?

When I went cross country i had an ARB fridge and never had a problem but i was also driving 6-8 hours a day.

Long post but I appreciate anyone's input

 

[CJF]

Man you write a lot...



Regardless:

Given I do have more than the average amp draw but only 800ma

Are you saying that's with the engine off??

If so, that's your issue, period.

 

[desertdude]

I have both those PM-1 batteries, the Hell Roaring and the Sequoia amp mod.

I dont care what the voltage is as long as it starts the engine.

Note: I can leave the Engel on for 5 days and still start the truck

I also don't use a charger - if I had to charge it with an outside charger I would be looking into a drainage issue... or a bad battery

One battery has already died and replaced by Sears...

 

[wearsabrowncoat]

A little update here. I had a 31M that I thought would not hold a charge and would need a top off or second bettery jump if it sat more than 1 day. Last week I took the second battery tray and my slee style dual battery setup out to allow room to install my snorkel. The next day after everything went back togther I expected the main battery to be extremely weak. However, the engine fired up without any problems and the system and battery has been fine ever since. So all my problems were not cuased by the battery but something to do with wiring. I think and loose ground or another wire causing parasitic drain.