SDHQ High Output Alternator (1 Viewer)

[jackhossross]

Hi mud, does anyone on here have any experience with this product? What about experience with the install, what supporting mods are required? I imagine a REDARC charge management is a must.

SDHQ High Output Alternator

Would be a nice upgrade to charge my three batteries (two 120ah DCS in cabin, and main AGM).

 

[jackhossross]

Still looking for feedback on this - my alternator is starting to wain .. between this and Mean Green Alternator, with a REDARC or Victron battery charger manager in between the two to keep from cooking the battery.

 

[James Bentley]

I used a BNR Alternator from eBay and have no issues.
(One 100AH in cabin and Group 49 in stock location under hood)
The BNR units are made in USA and seem well-built.
You want the 3-pin and not the 4-pin for your rig in your sig.
It's hard to go wrong with a price like that $245 for 250A
If that is not enough, DC Power has a 370A unit @ $850

 

[hoser]

DC Power is a reputable company and so you can't really go wrong. I "think" they use all new Denso cores for their alternators but it would be nice to get confirmation. I would choose alternator output based on my needs. Bigger is not always better. The highest output alternator will not be the most reliable alternator.

If you were searching remanufactured alternators, I'd suggest the Denso Sequoia 150A alternator or the Denso 130A LC alternator. Both, upgrades from your 80A alt. Would be nice to get an actual unbiased output comparison of OE alternator vs DCP alternators.

 

[Ma son]

I used a BNR Alternator from eBay and have no issues.
(One 100AH in cabin and Group 49 in stock location under hood)
The BNR units are made in USA and seem well-built.
You want the 3-pin and not the 4-pin for your rig in your sig.
It's hard to go wrong with a price like that $245 for 250A
If that is not enough, DC Power has a 370A unit @ $850

Did you upgrade anything else when you installed this? Grounds, main power feed wire, fuse, etc?

 

[James Bentley]

Yes, I ran an additional 2 gauge (welding cable) alongside of the main factory power feed (no fuse since the OE doesn't have one) and "the big 3" electrical upgrades.
Both the OE and 2 ga cable will fit on the back of the alternator and the terminal block near the battery.
I did make sure grounds were sanded to bare metal and I'm running the "alt-s" fuse mod = bumps voltage up 0.5VDC.
Copper lugs on the welding cable and heatshrink the ends.
Hammer crimp tool for lugs.
Hope this helps!

 

[ClassyJalopy]

don't kow if OP is still looking for ecommendations. Just wanted to share that my own experience with DC Power alternator in my LX has been very good. Mine is a 270 A version. It worked great under the prev. owner's tenure for 10 years. Once I got it, it needed a rebuild for which I sent it back to DC Power. They installed new bearings, new voltage regulator etc and sent it back in short order. That was about 4 years and 40k miles ago - no issues since then!

Builds - The Story of Blue

Following your lead, @ClassyJalopy , I ordered the ignition rod assembly yesterday for roughly $145 shipped. I don't want to be caught without one. I may just go ahead and replace it since I will have the seats out to do some console work. Remember I'm almost like @flintknapper when it comes...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[TRLBOSS]

I have a DC Power 270A in my 2000 - been in a couple of years now and has been working good. I did notice it was louder than stock.

I also upgraded all the big wires and the wire from the alternator. And added another fuse and path for juice to the battery. I think that alternator fuse at the battery was rated at 100A, and the new alternator could potentially supply much more than that. I also had to wire in a new plug at the alternator.

 

[Ma son]

Yes, I ran an additional 2 gauge (welding cable) alongside of the main factory power feed (no fuse since the OE doesn't have one) and "the big 3" electrical upgrades.
Both the OE and 2 ga cable will fit on the back of the alternator and the terminal block near the battery.
I did make sure grounds were sanded to bare metal and I'm running the "alt-s" fuse mod = bumps voltage up 0.5VDC.
Copper lugs on the welding cable and heatshrink the ends.
Hammer crimp tool for lugs.
Hope this helps!

Thank you sir! Big help, much appreciated!!

 

[Ma son]

I have a DC Power 270A in my 2000 - been in a couple of years now and has been working good. I did notice it was louder than stock.

I also upgraded all the big wires and the wire from the alternator. And added another fuse and path for juice to the battery. I think that alternator fuse at the battery was rated at 100A, and the new alternator could potentially supply much more than that. I also had to wire in a new plug at the alternator.

View attachment 3836729

View attachment 3836730

What amp fuse did you use?

 

[TRLBOSS]

What amp fuse did you use?

140 https://a.co/d/et8znok