Screwed Up Dizzy O-ring Replacement. Now cruiser has weak idle and eventually dies. (1 Viewer)

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That was a most confusing situation. I well remember that one....but in the end you figured it out. Good job.
Thanks. I took my vc off to make sure everything was aligned correctly even. I feel for the OP. Start at ground zero. Do it exactly as told and it will work eventually. I ended up one tooth off more times than I can count.
 
Thanks. I took my vc off to make sure everything was aligned correctly even. I feel for the OP. Start at ground zero. Do it exactly as told and it will work eventually. I ended up one tooth off more times than I can count.

Its easy to do.

But you were a 'trooper' through it all and in the end.... persevered. I remember that very well. 👍 :wrench:
 
Got the timing in the ballpark, it turns out the battery was to blame. I’m getting it charged now and going back to fine tune it when the battery is charged. I did notice when it was on that it smelled a little like burning oil?

Should I be concerned about an engine fire upon starting? since I’ve tried (maybe 15 times already) to start already? I’m a little concerned about potentially starting a fire since there is a bunch of fuel in the cylinders from the previous attempts
 
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If the car was turning over and just not starting it's not your battery and no, you shouldn't have to worry about an engine fire. Did you watch the videos?
 
If the car was turning over and just not starting it's not your battery and no, you shouldn't have to worry about an engine fire. Did you watch the videos?
It was starting but just barely, when I jumped the battery it sustained rpm for the first time. I know I’m in the ballpark, just have to adjust. I watched the ignition timing video, not the first one
 
Sounds good. If you get it started and it still won't run properly you could possible be off a tooth on the distributor gear. You might want to watch the first one to be sure. He shows how to properly reinsert the distributor to get it timed properly.
 
I got it running. The battery was the culprit this entire time. If only I had thought to jump it first time... well, I least I know how to replace a distributor now!

Thanks to everybody who put up with my incompetence.
 
I got it running. The battery was the culprit this entire time. If only I had thought to jump it first time... well, I least I know how to replace a distributor now!

Thanks to everybody who put up with my incompetence.

Good that you got it back in and running.
Sometimes it's best to step away, and start with fresh eyes the next day, or after a decent break.


Did you use a timing light to set the timing?

Getting the right tooth on the dizzy lined up just gets timing in the ball park
 
Good that you got it back in and running.
Sometimes it's best to step away, and start with fresh eyes the next day, or after a decent break.


Did you use a timing light to set the timing?

Getting the right tooth on the dizzy lined up just gets timing in the ball park
I haven’t yet, I will get to it eventually. Right now it seems to have a little more power off the line with a slightly lower idle while in drive. Might’ve advanced it a bit, haven’t heard any knocking though
 
1. Make SURE the engine is at Top Dead Center on the COMPRESSION Stroke. Doesn't matter what method you use....just be sure the harmonic balancer is pointed to the zero and that the cylinder is compressing. Otherwise, you'll be 180° out and all of the following will be all for naught.

2. Use the alignment marks on the distributor. Paint them if necessary so you can see them well. Align them as in the pic below.

That was fabulous. I too screwed this up on the removal and thought it was going to be a mess, but with this it was easy. Great pictures. Thanks.
 
Timing light? I would think you would get it close following marks but i would expect to always fine tune a motor with a timing light. I cant imagine removing a distributer and not checking it with a timing light afterwards. Just takes a few seconds.
 
You are really over thinking this. Put the crank at the 0 mark, then install the dizzy and cap like it shows in the video. If it doesn’t start then you’re 180 off and you need to pull the dizzy and cap back off rotate the crank pulley one full rotation back around to the 0 mark then reassemble again like it shows in the video. IT WILL START. If it doesn’t then you’ve got other problems that aren’t related.
If I'm one tooth off I'll know this because the rotor won't point in the correct direction, is that right?

I had the rotor pointing correctly but couldn't get the engine to fire up. I'm having a hard time understanding if I was 180 off or just a tooth off.

Your post above leads me to believe I must be 180 off and just need to rotate the crank and try again. Although after it wouldn't start, I was dumb and removed my distributor without lining up the HB marks so I might need to do this twice tomorrow.
 

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