Builds Scott’s GX 460 build GreenvilleOverland

[rav8]

$400 for a full fluid exchange is honestly not a bad deal, considering the transmission fluid alone is around $120 for aftermarket and probably closer to $200 for Toyota WS (my personal opinion is that Toyota WS is not a great fluid as evidenced by lots of trans issues in the 460 - it's a conventional fluid and degrades with heat). If you don't really want to tackle the messy job and value your time, you're basically paying $200 or so for someone else to do the labor. 30K isn't a terrible interval for a transmission fluid change anyway, if the warranty fine print checks out and you drive 12K a year, you'd only be paying around $140 a year for trans fluid with a warranty. There have been a lot of reports of GX460 trans issues on here, so the warranty aspect may not be a bad deal.

Just FYI, $200 for a drain and flush is, IMO, a ripoff. It's just opening the drain plug in the pan, letting 4 quarts of fluid come out, and putting 4 more quarts in, plus a level check at the end. I can't see this being more than 30 minutes of work and it should be closer in cost to an oil change. Dealer fluid prices are probably crazy-high anyway, and Toyota fluid is usually crazy-expensive to begin with. Replacing all 15-16 quarts for $400 is a much better deal.

One last thought as well - if you do DIY it I'd suggest a full fluid exchange with a pan drop, pan clean, and filter replacement. This would be around $150-200 for fluid and the pan gasket/filter using non-Toyota fluid like Valovline Maxlife or the Mobil 1 MV transmission fluid (both of which are full synthetic). I did it on my 470 and it was messy but honestly fairly easy. I'm not sure of the exact procedures on a 460 - it might depend on if you have an external trans cooler or not.

Truth. I might add that I also do diffs and transfer case at this time, so depending on the source of the fluids, can be a very expensive day. I used this one last time and probably will again in June: https://www.blauparts.com/lexus-gx460-transfer-case-differential-fluid-change-kit.html

*Edited to add: I did not do a full fluid replacement in the transmission with pan drop/filter replacement. Pretty sure I used Valvoline Maxlife on refill.

 

[r2m]

On to the next thing. I want to get a transmission service. After my hard work this weekend (utilized resources bc I have an 8mo old and had to get mother in law to help watch her and my time… I’d rather be mountain biking) I was set on a Lexus dealer drain and fill. Previously they quoted me $200 for a drain and fill and that seems reasonable with the cost of transmission fluid. Well… talked to the service advisor today after scheduling this and he recommended a flush which he describes as a non pressurized fluid replacement with Toyota fluid. It’s also warrantied at $4k (he quoted GX trans as 8-10k) if you continue with their “flush” every 30k. Big downside flush is $400 now after them telling me drain fill was $200 now drain fill is more than flush. I get the feeling this is crooked and just pushing me into a scheduled $400 every 30k.

So with this I’m thinking about trying my own drain and fill with the obdII scanner again. I just need to take a little time to recover from last weekends driveway warrior work. I’m pretty handy and sure I can do it. But I’m also still sore from laying on the ground with less than ideal mechanic tools. I was just hoping I could pay for convenience. Obviously not the case here because I am not a cheap bastard but I am thrifty and concerned with budget. Ok I’m a cheap B. Definitely not target audience for Lexus dealership.

Thoughts? Should I cave or just pickup the torch buy the tools and make this b last forever with whatever the minimum maintenance cost is (aka diy). Once this trailer is gone hopefully the G will fit in the garage for this stuff so I don’t have to brave the elements and the neighbors. Im kinda into that idea right now.

Considering that I don't believe there's an actual service schedule for GX transmissions, every 40k miles seems excessive. I didn't do mine till around 100k miles.
I do off roading, but don't tow anything so I don't abuse my trans that much.
I haven't added one yet, but from all the chatter about adding a trans cooler and how good it is, for sure if I had one, I wouldn't do a tranny service that often.
But for the first time, yeah, do the entire service.

 

[Rednexus]

Truth. I might add that I also do diffs and transfer case at this time, so depending on the source of the fluids, can be a very expensive day. I used this one last time and probably will again in June: Lexus GX 460 Transfer Case Differential Fluid Change Kit - 2010-23 Ravenol - https://www.blauparts.com/lexus-gx460-transfer-case-differential-fluid-change-kit.html

*Edited to add: I did not do a full fluid replacement in the transmission with pan drop/filter replacement. Pretty sure I used Valvoline Maxlife on refill.

Not to go too far down the fluid rabbit hole, but another (cheaper) gear oil option is Mobil Delvac 75W90. It's a full-synthetic fluid that lacks the limited slip additive most over-the-counter fluids, including Mobil 1 (but not the linked Ravenol) have. Many folks run 75W90 in both the TC and diffs without issues - I'm in that camp. I usually stock up on the Delvac from Summit Racing for around $9/quart (as it's not carried locally that I can find), so you could do the whole rig for around $75.

 

[skey44]

after more and more and more research…. I’m gonna just start doing ATF drain and fills with oil changes for a little while in my driveway. I just ordered a nice scan tool, a fluid pump, some liquid measuring tools, a second set of ramps, and 7 quarts of Toyota WS fluid for a good bit less than the price Lexus was going to charge for the service. I may drop the pan and change the strainer and gasket at some point but that’s not what I’m gonna do right now (fwiw Lexus wasn’t gonna do that either). Went ahead and planned a coolant flush and purchased needed parts/fluid for that too. Took a flex day of work to get both accomplished this month.
I also purchased parts to change out the disc rotors and calipers (powerstop oem equivalent and low mess ceramic pads) due to some steering wheel shimmy I’m experiencing on braking. I have a friend who has all the tools and knowledge from changing his Tundra’s brakes out and I’m gonna hookup with him one weekend to get that job done. He even has a friend with a lift. Also scheduled discount tire to rebalance and rotate the tires while they’re at it to make sure that’s not the cause of the shimmy
I’m actually enjoying this deep dive into the GX maintenance, it’s rewarding bc there’s a belief that if it’s done right the vehicle will serve its multi use purpose for a long time after I pay the vehicle off.

On a more exciting enthusiast note I’m seriously planning for slider purchase this spring. I like the CBI sliders the most right now and they have a discount sometime in the spring (signed up for their promotion email list).

 

[r2m]

On a more exciting note I’m starting to plan for slider purchase this spring. I like the CBI sliders the most right now and they have a discount sometime in the spring (signed up for their promotion email list).

See if they'll have a Memorial Day sale.

 

[skey44]

See if they'll have a Memorial Day sale.

Their rep said they have one spring sale… I figured it was tax season related but Memorial Day makes sense too!

 

[skey44]

Oh and picture of the apparent liquid gold so this thread isn’t worthless.

 

[rav8]

after more and more and more research…. I’m gonna just start doing ATF drain and fills with oil changes for a little while in my driveway.

Overkill in my opinion. Doing it at that frequency just adds more risk than anything. Threaded plugs (4! if doing both), one of which is easily cross-threaded (trans drain if memory serves), possibility of forgetting/losing a washer from one and producing a slight leak, plus forgetting to pin the bypass which will give you a bad reading when at temp.

The job is easy but with some important steps. I'd advise making a day for each job to see that all get completed the right way.

I plan to do mine once every two years (approximately 25k). The ONLY reason I do that is because 5-8k of those miles will be pulling a 4k lbs camper or boat. Which, according to the suggested maintenance plan is still early.

 

[rav8]

View attachment 3553729Oh and picture of the apparent liquid gold so this thread isn’t worthless.

Shoot me if I am wrong but I thought the transfer case fluid was the "liquid gold". That is why I mentioned the Ravenol option earlier.

P.S. I'm not trying to be critical, just rooting for all the GX owners and trying to help them save money for the most important things!

 

[skey44]

Shoot me if I am wrong but I thought the transfer case fluid was the "liquid gold". That is why I mentioned the Ravenol option earlier.

P.S. I'm not trying to be critical, just rooting for all the GX owners and trying to help them save money for the most important things!

Nope I’m not familiar with the correct jargon but buying this fluid versus the Valvoline maxlife alternative felt like I was purchasing liquid gold. When I do that service maybe I’ll learn what liquid gold really is

 

[ericm979]

When you do the brakes do not forget to release the parking brake before replacing the rear rotors. I forgot and wound up damaging one of the spring hold downs for the parking brake shoes. Those are a pain to replace! I managed without it with a lot of fiddling but there is a special tool for installing the spring retainers. Mine needed an impact wrench for some of the caliper bolts even though it was a SoCal car with 60k miles when I bought it.

A good brake bedding session made a huge difference on mine (OEM pads and discs).

 

[skey44]

When you do the brakes do not forget to release the parking brake before replacing the rear rotors. I forgot and wound up damaging one of the spring hold downs for the parking brake shoes. Those are a pain to replace! I managed without it with a lot of fiddling but there is a special tool for installing the spring retainers. Mine needed an impact wrench for some of the caliper bolts even though it was a SoCal car with 60k miles when I bought it.

A good brake bedding session made a huge difference on mine (OEM pads and discs).

Thanks for the tips. I’m hoping opting for the cheaper power stop oem level replacements won’t be an issue. I’m gonna do this one with my friend who has tools and experience working on brakes so hopefully we won’t run into any oopsies moments
I’m not in a real hurry to do this as my steering wheel shake on braking is very minor but it does annoy me. So I bought the parts and am starting to plan it out

 

[skey44]

New toys arrived today. This thing is cool

 

[skey44]

On another note I slightly overfilled on my oil change I did a couple of weeks ago and the harbor freight basic $5 fluid pump took care of the overfill very easy via the dipstick to siphon some oil out. My ocd wouldn’t let the oil level stay too high with intrusive thoughts involving oil cavitation and all

 

[ericm979]

I had brake shudder on my GX too. Only at a certain intermediate level of braking. I think the left front rotor was warped or had deposits on it (depends on the theory you subscribe to). It wasn't that bad; my wife hardly noticed as a passenger or driver. But it bugged me. It went away when I replaced the rotors and pads, and then I realized how much I'd been driving around it and how much it had been annoying me. And how much better the brakes were after the replacement. It had OE parts and the rotors and pads were still at 80%. But it was totally worth it.

 

[skey44]

I had brake shudder on my GX too. Only at a certain intermediate level of braking. I think the left front rotor was warped or had deposits on it (depends on the theory you subscribe to). It wasn't that bad; my wife hardly noticed as a passenger or driver. But it bugged me. It went away when I replaced the rotors and pads, and then I realized how much I'd been driving around it and how much it had been annoying me. And how much better the brakes were after the replacement. It had OE parts and the rotors and pads were still at 80%. But it was totally worth it.

Yup. I’ll notice a change. Mine first started after an emergency stop where my tires skidded a bit and the abs kicked in. Can you look back to a moment like that? My tundra friend thinks it’s a classic Toyota fail safe to make you change the the brakes and inspect everything after an “event”. Can’t say I disagree.

 

[ericm979]

Yup. I’ll notice a change. Mine first started after an emergency stop where my tires skidded a bit and the abs kicked in. Can you look back to a moment like that? My tundra friend thinks it’s a classic Toyota fail safe to make you change the the brakes and inspect everything after an “event”. Can’t say I disagree.

Mine came used with the brake shudder, so I don't know what caused it. I think your friend's theory is a stretch. One explanation I have seen for "warped" rotors is getting them hot and then stopping with the brakes on so the pads are clamped against the hot rotor. According to this theory, compounds from the pad cook out and are deposited on the rotor, and somehow they are so hard that subsequent brake use does not wear them off. I'm not sure about that one but it's at least plausible. Of course getting rotors hot and stopping with the pads clamped could also cause rotors to warp because the part of the rotor that's covered by the pads will cool at a different rate than the rest of the rotor. Or just getting them hot makes them warp period.

 

[skey44]

Mine came used with the brake shudder, so I don't know what caused it. I think your friend's theory is a stretch. One explanation I have seen for "warped" rotors is getting them hot and then stopping with the brakes on so the pads are clamped against the hot rotor. According to this theory, compounds from the pad cook out and are deposited on the rotor, and somehow they are so hard that subsequent brake use does not wear them off. I'm not sure about that one but it's at least plausible. Of course getting rotors hot and stopping with the pads clamped could also cause rotors to warp because the part of the rotor that's covered by the pads will cool at a different rate than the rest of the rotor. Or just getting them hot makes them warp period.

He thinks that getting them hot and then abs clamping down multiple times and depositing causes it. He’s a smart guy. Seems plausible. He also has a good friend with a tundra and seems to get the shudder after hard stops. I think it’s a solid theory.
Either way I want to change em out and get them fixed just like he did.

 

[William1986]

Hey there everyone!

Been following this thread for a few weeks now and taking notes. Moving to the Greenville area at the end of the month.

 

[Banandalorian]

He thinks that getting them hot and then abs clamping down multiple times and depositing causes it. He’s a smart guy. Seems plausible. He also has a good friend with a tundra and seems to get the shudder after hard stops. I think it’s a solid theory.
Either way I want to change em out and get them fixed just like he did.

Crap on the rotors/pads is a much more likely culprit than an actual warped brake disc. The GX discs are huge so unless you have giant race car calipers, fluid, and lines you'll cook your fluid long before you can actually warp the disc.

You can usually clean off/smooth out those deposits by doing a bed-in procedure. You could also just have a bunch of mud stuck inside the wheel that causes shaking/shuddering like an unbalanced rim or brakes.