Builds Schmutz FZJ80 build thread (1 Viewer)

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For future nostalgic reasons: 2019 Moab trip we conquered the Poison Spider Mesa trail without issue.

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The reason I selected the above photo is, that it documents the black paint treatment over the chrome grill is beginning to flake off. 😢 This trip was the first time that I consciously noticed it. It's not flaking consistently, but in a few spots. Is it due to being hammered by bugs and the occasional raindrop at Highway speeds on the 7 hour drive to Moab? 🤷🏽‍♂️ At any rate, that will need to be put on the To-Do list, since now it bothers me. Wondering if I should make an attempt with a Plast Dip style product, or perhaps a bedliner product? Any thoughts? My application is specific to the chrome grille and headlight trims.
 
This is a great thread and as someone else mentioned, you write very well.
Plasti-Dip is a good choice since it has a rubberized texture and offers some impact resistance and is less prone to chipping or flaking. I think it is well suited for your application. Best part is, if you hate it, you can peel it off without issue.
 
Plasti-Dip is a good choice since it has a rubberized texture and offers some impact resistance and is less prone to chipping or flaking...
Thank you, that makes good sense! Do you know if there has to be any special preparatory steps to apply Plasti Dip over chrome?
 
I've been sadly remiss about documenting things on this build in real time. Again. I take good notes on my phone, and then at some point I have to play catch up. As you can tell thats what I've been doing here and on the last page. Anyway, that brings me to 2020 -aka CORONA-LIFE.

What a strange year for planet earth. The 80 was our escape-pod from cabin fever multiple times, as we sought out extreme social distancing options in nature. Most of the time we were loaded up like National Lampoon’s vacation… 😂

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Of course, this pic is taken while heading home. Usually the jerry-can carrier is chock full of supplies and equipment too... By the end of the trip it's all inside to keep things from sliding around unnecessarily.
 
The only "build" worthy note from 2020 is a kitchen modification. During our first escape of the summer, one of the burners on our trusty little Coleman camp stove quit working. It was painful cooking for a family of five -including three constantly hungry teens- with only one burner. Our escape companions (safely socially distanced in their own kitchen, of course) had one of those free standing Camp Chef units with gazillion BTU burners. We quickly became envious, and realized that a similar unit would be most practical for our needs. The only drawbacks were its size, weight and setup/take-down time. You might recall, back in post #135 of this thread, (page 7) I had worked so hard to build a discreet and space-conscious slide-out tray for our camp stove. While we did make several earnest attempts to clean and repair the small camp stove, sadly all the tricks and tips gleaned from YouTube videos proved ineffective in resurrecting ours. The woefully inadequate little single-burner had to be retired 😢
In preparation for our 2020 Moab trip we purchased a free-standing Camp Chef 2-burner model, with gazillion BTUs and splurged on the extra flat griddle accessory. That meant reconfiguring the cargo draw system. Here’s what I ended up doing: the left draw is now tools and recovery gear. The right draw actually accommodated the monstrous new cooking station like it was made for it 😃


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Believe it or not this is the only clear pic of the new kitchen setup
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Test notes: it definitely takes a little longer to set up, especially since the propane tank has to be removed from the vehicle each time and connected/disconected. This makes a quick heat'n'eat lunch out on the trail a much lengthier exercise. Counterbalancing that con, however, is the increased counter space available on the tailgate. And the pièce de résistance is definitely the large griddle. Don't ever want to be without that again, even if it does weigh half a metric ton! The griddle is AWESOME and has earned its place as standard operating equipment in the 80!
 
2020 Moab trip highlight: Top of the World trail. I have always had the dream of spending the night at the top of the world. My two eldest kids joined me to fulfill that. (My poor wife, due to her back issues elected to stay in a motel in Moab). Last time we were up here it was blowing and raining and everyone was miserable. This time was the complete opposite experience, I almost want to say 'perfect'. We arrived in plenty of time to watch the sun set, and spent a glorious evening up there with friends. Definitely a hall-of-fame memory!
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Quick Trail Note: TOP OF THE WORLD trail
This was my 3rd time driving this trail with this 80. She was as intrepid and sure-footed as ever. Sadly, however, the trail is rapidly and noticeably deteriorating due to the increased traffic. This trail is easily within reach of the day trippers who trailer their side-by-sides to the vicinity, and rip up to the top and back before I've finished stowing my camp kitchen. I'm not complaining, they have a right to enjoy this place too. And we Mudders do enjoy a few challenges along the way to heighten our sense of adventure. However, I was amazed how many times we had to stack rocks at ledges and obstacles that last time required only a spotter. I honestly felt that the loop portion of the descent was more challenging than the ascent.
 
Re-reading this thread today, it seems that I have strayed. This was supposed to be a build thread, but has become a sort of hybrid, crossover, journal, log thing... 🤔

Let me attempt to redeem myself somewhat...
 
The first excursion of 2021 was in mid March. A leisurely circumnavigation of the lava fields south of town, with my youngest daughter. To our dismay, on that glorious, sunny day, we discovered that the AC was not working. Therefore, during the subsequent month I have dedicated much time and multiple cans of R-134a —don’t worry, they were the cheap ones from Walmart— to revive the ailing AC system. I have spent significant time researching, educating myself, and learning much about AC systems, both from this forum, and from a good mate who has all the tools and some experience. He ultimately helped me diagnose the likely culprit: a blocked Thermal Expansion Valve (TXV). It was a thorough process of elimination and AC troubleshooting. I won’t even pretend that I understand all of it... However, it was very educational, and today we successfully resurrected the AC system!!! 🥳

Ok, I said I was going to redeem myself, so here comes some technical stuff...
 
We confirmed that the compressor was performing well. In fact, when we hooked it up to some quality gauges, HP line was running up to about 450psi, at which point the cut out switch would cycle the compressor off !!! Meanwhile, the LP side was hovering around 10 psi. We also eliminated leakage, most conclusively proven by the fact that the system held a vacuum of -25Hg. To cut a long story short, all symptoms pointed to a blocked TXV. Now, I will confess, that at this point, I was blissfully unaware of the existence of a TXV, and had no idea what its purpose was. I reached out to fellow Mudder ( @flintknapper thank you again kind Sir) who confirmed the diagnosis based on my description of the symptoms, and pointed me towards this thread:


That thread was the MotherLoad!!! Armed with newfound knowledge and confidence I ordered the following from Amazon:
Denso Expansion Valve (part # 475-2005 —came with 4 O-rings)
Denso Receiver Drier (part # 478-0503 —came with 2 O-rings)
4 Seasons O-ring kit (part # 26749)

I also purchased from a local auto parts store:
A bottle of PAG 46 oil with UV dye
A replacement Shrader valve kit. While the system is open, I may as well eliminate that potential issue, right?
All up, about $78 worth of parts + three more cans of R-134a
 
Following the step-by-step directions in the aforementioned thread, I started by removing the PS seat. This would provide an easier working environment, and also gave me opportunity to examine the seat, which had quit sliding forward or backward during the March outing. It turns out that a small white plastic cap (with a “+” mark on it) had fallen out, which keeps a drive axle engaged, which rotates the threaded screw mechanism that slides the seat forward or backward. It was a simple matter to re-engage the axle and replace the retaining cap. Upon re-installation of the seat later, it worked perfectly again. Who knew 🤷🏽‍♂️? I have a sneaking suspicion that I will have to keep an eye on that little white cap...

Returning to the AC surgery, the entire case containing the Evaporator + TXV was removed without drama. Upon opening it, I noticed some unusual contents...


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Apparently nesting material. I had suspected some sort of rodent stowaway earlier this year, when I discovered what appeared to be mouse sign on top of the battery in the engine compartment. I have heard the horror stories of the havoc that mice can wreak on automotive wiring, and the mystery electrical ‘shorts’ they create in the most inaccessible locations... Not wishing to experience this first hand, I promptly left a box of D-Con in the engine bay for a few weeks. It must have been a successful tactic, because (1) there were no further (visible) mouse droppings, and (2) check this out...
 
This was inside the fan, on the air intake side of the Evap...
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Talk about a macabre merry-go-round of death!!! ☠️ The desiccated remains of two baby mice that were firmly pressed into the voids between the fan blades by sheer centrifugal force!

Fortunately, no smell due to this horrific incident was ever detected, and more importantly, the 80 exhibits no mystery electrical issues at this time.
 
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New TXV came with all the needed O-rings, which were lubed with Mineral Oil before installation. Here it is installed:

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I needed two of the new extra O-rings (pictured above on left) for HP and LP line connections at the firewall. The old O-rings were hard and somewhat deformed, therefore it would be unwise to reuse them.
 
Reassembly was without drama. Obviously, I removed the offending mouse remains and thoroughly cleaned out the Evap core with compressed air.

Next step was to remove and replace the Receiver Drier, which should be done anytime the system is opened to air.

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I did remove the DS headlight for easier access to Drier location, but that also facilitated another task —repainting the chrome trim around the lights.
Added 14.79cc (0.5oz) of the PAG 46 oil to the new Receiver Drier prior to installation, per the FSM recommendations.

I’ve already mentioned the new Shrader valves. So at this point, we evacuated the entire system and ensured that it held a vacuum. 👍🏻 Our Harbor Freight pump couldn’t quite achieve the recommenced -29Hg but the RobinAir gauges showed -25Hg. Recharged the system with 3 cans (36oz) of R-134a. The AC system did its thing, and once everything stabilized, the HP line showed 190psi and LP line showed 35psi, (while running) with cabin air temp of 39 degrees F. I’m absolutely thrilled with that! And the hundreds of $ in savings from the DIY operation will be put to good use elsewhere. Now I’ll wait for a nice HOT day, and see how the system performs. If needed I can add a little more R-134a. A HUGE shout of thanks to all the Mudders who contributed their knowledge and experience to the AC thread which I linked above in post #153
 
Reassembly was without drama. Obviously, I removed the offending mouse remains and thoroughly cleaned out the Evap core with compressed air.

Next step was to remove and replace the Receiver Drier, which should be done anytime the system is opened to air.

View attachment 2650734

I did remove the DS headlight for easier access to Drier location, but that also facilitated another task —repainting the chrome trim around the lights.
Added 14.79cc (0.5oz) of the PAG 46 oil to the new Receiver Drier prior to installation, per the FSM recommendations.

I’ve already mentioned the new Shrader valves. So at this point, we evacuated the entire system and ensured that it held a vacuum. 👍🏻 Our Harbor Freight pump couldn’t quite achieve the recommenced -29Hg but the RobinAir gauges showed -25Hg. Recharged the system with 3 cans (36oz) of R-134a. The AC system did its thing, and once everything stabilized, the HP line showed 190psi and LP line showed 35psi, (while running) with cabin air temp of 39 degrees F. I’m absolutely thrilled with that! And the hundreds of $ in savings from the DIY operation will be put to good use elsewhere. Now I’ll wait for a nice HOT day, and see how the system performs. If needed I can add a little more R-134a. A HUGE shout of thanks to all the Mudders who contributed their knowledge and experience to the AC thread which I linked above in post #153


Well done Sir.

Excellent follow up, pics and accounting of what you did. No doubt... this will be helpful to fellow Mudder's with similar issues.
 
June 1, 2021
Got the old girl a long overdue date with the Meguiars brothers 😊
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Decided it was the perfect opportunity to remove the grille and headlight trims to sand and repaint them...
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Which led to a repaint of the rock sliders and rear bumper too. I do that annually anyway to keep any surface rust at bay
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