Saving the silver 70... (1 Viewer)

[richmason]

Bruce,

This is super impressive work not only in terms of what you are fixing on the truck but also the quality of the documentation. I need to fix similar rust issues on my LJ when I move back to the US in 6 months or so. When you have the time, I would really appreciate seeing a list of all of the tools and gadgets you've needed for the metal work so I can start assembling my shop requirements. Its been so long since I lived at home that I'm starting almost from scratch (I may have a bench grinder hidden away somewhere ). I will place an order soon for 4 of the inner rocker repair panels. I have both outer panels from Toyota. If you'd like to borrow them to mock up repair pieces that you might be able to sell yourself, let me know and I can ship them to you.

Cheers,
Rich

 

[MrMoMo]

Thanks Rich, great idea - I can gather up the tools I use and would be happy to make a few posts, or more likely a short video of how I use them. I'm actually working up the hood scoop now, and was thinking of making a video of making it, so maybe I can just incorporate tools into that one.

Hood scoop cardboard version 1;

 

[cruiserdan]

I LOVE CAD.




Cardboard Aided Design.

 

[richmason]

Thanks Rich, great idea - I can gather up the tools I use and would be happy to make a few posts, or more likely a short video of how I use them. I'm actually working up the hood scoop now, and was thinking of making a video of making it, so maybe I can just incorporate tools into that one.

Hood scoop cardboard version 1;
View attachment 1439672

Don't want to distract too much from your current work but would be much obliged for the effort! Just looking at how nice and shiny the metal is once you are finished makes me want to sandblast everything! Rust depresses me .

 

[MrMoMo]

Don't want to distract too much from your current work but would be much obliged for the effort! Just looking at how nice and shiny the metal is once you are finished makes me want to sandblast everything! Rust depresses me .

Not at all. Trust me I have plenty of things distracting me from getting this work done, making a video isn't distracting!

On a side note, I got run off the road last night in my 80 and got my mirror and drivers window smashed. Guy tried to run but I chased him down. I went back tonight and measured my tire tracks. My right side was 12' from the yellow line and the bastard still hit me! No injuries other than a spray of glass shards to my hands... Cruiser gods were watching over me...

Funny part was I was on my way to the fire station for medical training. Showed up all bloody handed and covered in glass dust and asked who wanted to practice.

 

[MrMoMo]

Well it's far beyond time for an update and I've been horrible at not videoing anything, but here I have been slowly making some headway...

Yesterday I TIG welded the exhaust outlet back onto the mounting flange, first real use of the TIG soon stainless, and on the inside of a pipe to boot. Let's just say I need more practice at that, but it's all welded up.

Also worked on figuring out the oil lines. I believe on the Volvo setup these were fully hard plumbed, but I only got sections of the lines. Once I figured out which ones I wanted where I trimmed and bead blasted the ends to clean them up. (I'm not running coolant through the turbo, so had 4 hard lines to pick from)

Next I used some JB Weld putty to form a few ribs (with the aid of a file) to hopefully help hold the hose on. This is the feed line.

Hose is extremely tight, I had to actually use oil to get it to go on, and it was a struggle. Don't think I'd even need clamps here!

And next I pulled the oil pressure sender out, which I believe is BSP thread. Using my 1/8NPT tap coated in grease I ran the threads to "adjust" them. This is the same thing I did on my other 3B and it's been working just fine.

I have now installed a 1/8" short nipple with a T. The pressure sender is installed in the end of the T and a street 90 comes out the forward side, into which a hose barb is installed, for the line to feed the turbo. (Pics to follow)

Hopefully more progress (and pics) today!

 

[MrMoMo]

And of course I then realized everything on the turbo was clocked wrong....

But first, here is the picture of the oil supply T at the oil pressure sensor...

So, for some reason I led myself to believe that 2 of the 3 banjo fittings were oil, one was coolant, and the flat flange was the other coolant port. Thankfully before finishing the install and firing it up I realized my error, and tore everything apart again to re-clock both sides of the turbo so the oil drain was on the bottom. This of course meant having to make an oil drain port/plate instead of a coolant block off plate... Sigh...

Managed to find a 1/4" NPT tap and a decent chunk of steel to make a plate to fit the discharge port.

Got it all clocked properly (which involved a massive pain in the rear snap ring removal and install, as well as removing a tiny indexing pin from the aluminum snail.

Next up some creative fabrication to completely reconfigure the bracket for the wastegate control... I think it will work! I liked how fugly it was so I didn't grind any welds, just painted it and bolted it on! (I did test it with compressed air after all the welding to make sure I didn't melt anything inside, though I was careful to cool it after each weld)

So pretty much back to where I started, but with the exception that it's "right" now, and the wastegate actuator is installed..

Oh, and to cap off the coolant banjo bolts I drilled out some nuts to fit the banjo bolt. Not running coolant through this turbo.

Got all but one manifold bolt in, need to do a little wiggling for the last one. Then it's removing the oil pan to install the turbo drain, and welding in a 1/8" NPT coupler to the old O2 sensor port, so I can put my Pyro in. After that it's exhaust and oil line hose clamps and it should be turbo done!

 

[MrMoMo]

It's all downhill from
Here...


Well let's hope it's right because it's bolted together as final assembly now! Got the last of the manifold bolts in, welded a 1" section of pipe with a nut in the top to mount the heater hoses to, made an aluminum gasket (see below) to go between the turbo and the manifold and snugged it all up nice and tight. Moved on to remove the old exhaust, and start the new one from the top down... (Yes, that's two flex sections in a row...)

Turbo & intercooler now permanently plumbed and mounted...

To make the manifold gasket, I started with boxboard and a ball peen hammer... Works great!

After tracing the cardboard onto some thin aluminum, I repeated the process to locate the holes. Because it's super thin aluminum I used a step drill in order to be able to drill the bolt holes without tearing the aluminum. Next I cut out an Om-Nom with an OD about 3mm larger, and an ID 3mm smaller than the hole in the center of the gasket. (Refer back to the painting of the truck)

Next I placed the Om-Nom centered on the gasket, and folded all his teeth 180 degrees, thus giving me a slightly thicker center ring to the gasket. Hopefully this works similarly to the way exhaust gaskets are made, by putting this ring under the most compression possible...

MAYBE tomorrow I'll get to drain the oil and install the JIC bulkhead fitting into the oil pan for the oil return for the turbo, at which point the turbo install should be complete...

 

[Eric Winkworth]

you've done some absolutley amazing work, when she's all painted keep oil undercoating it, and you won't ever have to do that again

 

[MrMoMo]

Thanks Eric - I plan on giving the entire bottom of the body a coating of hand applied polyurethane sealant.... Messy job, but permanent....

Not a whole lot done today, but I did manage to get it up in the air, oil pan off, JIC bulkhead fitting in place and pan back on!

For reference should anyone else need it, the fitting is 1/2 way between bolt hole #7 and #8, and about 1-1/4" down from the lip... This lines it up directly behind the bracket for the oil pickup screen, so it shouldn't cause any "spray" issues. Fitting is JIC on both sides, I've put the short side on the inside, and put an o-ring on the inside.

Also put the pan in the press and pushed out the dent in the bottom....

 

[MrMoMo]

Well, the turbo is on, the oil is back in, the exhaust is welded up, and I'm building a scoop!!! (Oh, also, I did fire it up and yes, the turbo whistles :cD

Started with a sheet 18x20" steel.

Did a small radius 3 bump bend to give a bit of a softer corner on each side first.

Next I slit and bent the back end down, and matched the bend in the hood at about the mid point. Then I bent the front 6" down and cut the side off to match the hood.

Once this was done I made a cut 4" in from the edge, and then another radiused bend at 2" to complete the sides at the front.

Next I'll need to weld up all the slits and buff them all nice and smooth, then finish the inlet section, which will have a few tabs to hold an intake screen...

I think it looks ok so far, though I might shave the overall height down a hair...

 

[NM Frontier]

Excellent and inspiring work as always! Your posts always make me feel like I never do real work on my cruisers

 

[MrMoMo]

Excellent and inspiring work as always! Your posts always make me feel like I never do real work on my cruisers

Thanks - I so often wish I had no work to do on my cruisers... Seems I have never ending work to do, and even when this one is "done" I have to get back to all the work that the 40 needs! Was hoping to be "done" the 40 for its 40th year.... Not seeing that happening though...

 

[MrMoMo]

And now this!

 

[gerg]

Nice work fitting it in there. That is not easy to do. That is a great choice of turbo by the way. I'm pretty sure it's a 6cm housing but in the event it's a 7cm give me a shout and I'll mail you a 6cm. I've got a shelf full of them.

That dohicky on the compressor housing you mentioned is a blow off valve. They have a habit of leaking so I block them off. Here is a link. I use a tiny smear of silicone to ensure a good seal.

Genesis Turbo 2T OEM Bypass Valve Block Plate Blow Off Valve BOV 2010 11 12 13 | eBay

Cheers
g

 

[MrMoMo]

Nice work fitting it in there. That is not easy to do. That is a great choice of turbo by the way. I'm pretty sure it's a 6cm housing but in the event it's a 7cm give me a shout and I'll mail you a 6cm. I've got a shelf full of them.

That dohicky on the compressor housing you mentioned is a blow off valve. They have a habit of leaking so I block them off. Here is a link. I use a tiny smear of silicone to ensure a good seal.

Genesis Turbo 2T OEM Bypass Valve Block Plate Blow Off Valve BOV 2010 11 12 13 | eBay

Cheers
g

Cool, glad to hear it's a good turbo! Plate says it's a TD04HL-13T

Not sure that's a blow off valve though, it only has a vacuum line coming off it, and the turbo has an internal wastegate? Wouldn't dump much air out the vacuum line... I have considered making a block off plate though...

 

[gerg]

That generation turbo came in many variants, some with 6cm housings and some with 7. The 6cm will respond much better for you. Unbolt the blowoff cover and you will see how it operates, it's pretty simple. They have a reputation of leaking so folks block them. It recirculates the boosted air to the inlet side of the compressor. For MAF sensors if you vent boosted air to atmosphere it screws with your air fuel ratios.

 

[DenDen]

Cool, glad to hear it's a good turbo! Plate says it's a TD04HL-13T

Not sure that's a blow off valve though, it only has a vacuum line coming off it, and the turbo has an internal wastegate? Wouldn't dump much air out the vacuum line... I have considered making a block off plate though...

I have exactly the same turbo installed with 6cm housing. Good highway turbo. OK for city driving. You can try looking for stamped numbers on exhaust housing, it should have 6 or 7 at the end.

Fantastic build btw!

 

[OGBeno]

Awesome work Bruce.

 

[MrMoMo]

Thanks guys!

Didn't see any numbers on the exhaust housing but I'll take a look at the info plates I have for the turbo...