Builds Saved from Part Out - 1983 FJ60 (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

That thing is sweet. Do what John said and keep it for parts. I bought a 70 Chevelle Malibu years ago for $300. I drove it to work every day and swapped every good trinket off that thing for my SS454 resto. Kept the beater running, just with uglier parts.

I just pressed my parts 60 into service. It sat in a field for years. Got it running and did front brake lines, a marine gas tank, and a welded on plow for the winter. As fun as any cruiser I've owned so far.
20181126_152100.jpg
 
That thing is sweet. Do what John said and keep it for parts. I bought a 70 Chevelle Malibu years ago for $300. I drove it to work every day and swapped every good trinket off that thing for my SS454 resto. Kept the beater running, just with uglier parts.

I just pressed my parts 60 into service. It sat in a field for years. Got it running and did front brake lines, a marine gas tank, and a welded on plow for the winter. As fun as any cruiser I've owned so far.
View attachment 1851335

When you posted that plow photo it got me thinking I should do the same. But all of the blades and harnesses I have access to are heavier than what a cruiser could support. I’ll keep watch for an older 40 series or jeep setup

I’m having a good time tracking stuff down and sorting this one out. I’m not super familiar with model year changes, so i was sort of surprised with how many differences there are between 83 and 87. Some of the parts I thought I’d swap to my “good” truck aren’t the same between the years - rear seat back latches as the most recent example.

Ultimately I’d like to sell this one, and pick up a rusty 3b 5spd Canadian special. I’d like to have a diesel for a beater/plow. For this 83, I’ve got a bit of welding to tackle on the rear arches - similar approach to what you did with Chunk, and the few parts mentioned to track down.

My goal is to get it to a condition where I can pass it on to someone who can drive it home - however far that is.
 
Last edited:
bit of welding to tackle on the rear arches - similar approach to what you did with Chunk,
Tackling the lift install has shown me some rust I’m simply going to grin and bare till I can get it rolling then I need to toss on some patches at minimum before I can do any wheeling come spring. @dogfishlake can you direct me to photos of what @FJACS mentioned on your rear arches?
 
When you posted that plow photo it got me thinking I should do the same. But all of the blades and harnesses I have access to are heavier than what a cruiser could support. I’ll keep watch for an older 40 series or jeep setup

I’m having a good time tracking stuff down and sorting this one out. I’m not super familiar with model year changes, so i was sort of surprised with how many differences there are between 83 and 87. Some of the parts I thought I’d swap to my “good” truck aren’t the same between the years - rear seat back latches as the most recent example.

Ultimately I’d like to sell this one, and pick up a rusty 3b 5spd Canadian special. I’d like to have a diesel for a beater/plow. For this 83, I’ve got a bit of welding to tackle on the rear arches - similar approach to what you did with Chunk, and the few parts mentioned to track down.

My goal is to get it to a condition where I can pass it on to someone who can drive it home - however far that is.

Look for an old Meyer 7 1/2 foot plow. They are light and cheap and reliable. Won't effect the front much. Plus when it is down it weighs pretty much nothing. Pop it off to use the truck for other stuff.
 
It’s photogenic, in reality it’s a 100 footer. Although the more colours I add to it the better it gets. Maybe I should hold out for some freeborn red front doors.

If you ever need somewhere to park yours for a while, I’ve got lots of space. Just leave the keys and full tank of gas;)



PM incoming. Distressed describes the condition of this rig pretty well.

Like a VW Golf Harlequin. Google Image Result for http://images.thetruthaboutcars.com/2013/03/800px-VWGolfHarlequin.jpg
 
Busy weekend with the holidays. Didn’t get much done, but I did get the fan shroud back into useable condition.

When I brought the truck home it was tossed in the back. It had been removed by someone who cut it at 6:00 with a torch. Today I bent it back into shape, welded it back together - then promptly chopped it in half at 3:00 and 9:00.

full


Also, sprayed some krylon fusion on the bezel. It’s now got about 4lbs of JBWeld keeping it together and mending the various cracks. I’ll let it harden for the week.

full
 
Turn for the worst today. There are a few rust bubbles above the gutter over the hatch. I’ve been planning on cutting and welding patches in. I dug into it today - it’s a bit worse than it looked, but behind the rust is all mouse nest built out of headliner padding. So the headliner is junk and needs to come out. Its free of tears and was one of the few redeeming
qualities of the interior.
 
Last edited:
So it sat for most of the winter while I was busy doing other stuff. Last week I grabbed a pair of front doors for it and got the bezel and switches back in the dash.

I probably should have taken the guy with the doors up on his offer for the tailgate, but I decided to take a shot at fixing this one. Tried to remember to take photos, but didn’t really.

Pulled it off the truck:
full


Peeled the bottom 2” off.
full


I briefly considered just omitting the 3/4” of metal that had rotted off the inner structure and making the tailgate shorter, but figured I should at least try to do it right. Started tacking a strip along the lower edge of the inner structure. I’ll finish welding it later tonite:
full
 
Last edited:
Just realized,, the golf harlequin was sold WORLDWIDE??!1! really?:rofl:
 
The factory seam sealer in the gutters was dried out and cracked. I chipped out the passenger side with sharpened flat head, taped above the gutter and laid down some new stuff.
full

The respray peeled off with the painters tape. Quality prep work...

Paused the reseal at the rear - It had some bondo above the gutter over the rear hatch.
full


Started to peel it out and spray some zinc weld thru.
full
 
That said, the washer tank is cracked, and it plus the nozzles and hose have all been deleted from the rig. The front valence is welded up.
[QUOTE="FJACS, post: 12009714, member: 135131”]

One of the things I like about this truck is the removed washer system and welded up valence.
[/QUOTE]

FWIW , pre ‘85 did not have headlight washers. Your valence is stock.
 
I dont know all of the details of what Toyota spec’d these with, but am pretty sure this truck came with the headlight washer setup from new. It was sold new in the US Midwest. When I got it, the tank, pump (plugged in with factory connector) and hoses were still in place. From the backside of the valence I can see where it was welded.

Speaking of washer systems. There was a casualty in cutting out the rust above the gutter. The rear window washer hose was yellowed and brittle and broke apart when I tried to push it out of the way.
 
Last edited:
What seam sealer did you use? Was it easy to work with? Are you going to paint it?

Too bad about the paint peeling but oh well!

Keep it up!

The old stuff was so dried out it was maybe 15-20 minutes to have it out of the entire gutter perimeter. Other times I’ve not been as lucky. I used a 40 grit flap wheel (because that’s what was on the grinder) and cleaned up the few rusty areas. Sprayed some rust converter on the rust areas.

The seam sealer was this: PRO FORM - Products
I had the tube open from another project a few weeks ago. Laid it in from the tube and with a nitrile glove on, smoothed it with my finger. The masking tape (and pulling it off as soon as you’ve run your finger through) is key to keeping it crisp looking.

I’ll prime and paint it when I’ve got it done. I’m debating prepping the roof and spraying it white.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom