Saginaw pump plus 2F desmog questions (easiest route?) (1 Viewer)

[GeologistFelix]

Ok, so, my OEM power steering pump is on its way out, and it seems like a saginaw conversion would be a way better option than replacing the OEM pump. So, I've read up on the various ways people have done their saginaw conversions, and I'm trying to figure out what the shortest path between two points is for me...

Here's what I know:

- I'm planning on doing a full desmog and get a Jim C. dissy recurve in the relatively near future. Mostly to simplify my setup and get it running better for cheaper than replacing all the marginal components. Plus, the cruiser is old enough that I won't ever have to emissions test it, even if I move to a part of the state that _does_ emissions.

- My alternator has a pulley meant for a narrow belt, but the slots on my power steering pump and the main engine pulley are both wide ones. WTF?

- I only have limited fabrication capacity. Think 'small oxyacetylene torch, access to a friend's drill press, taps/dies, and a horrible Harbor Freight angle grinder'. So, limited brazing, and removing of metal, I can do; building a whole bracket, not so much.

- I have a lot of free time, and not a lot of money.


So, here are my actual questions:

1. Everything I've seen seems to point toward an 82ish Volvo 240 being the ideal donor vehicle, due to the hose fittings matching, and the pulley style. Is this true?

2. How good is the MAF Saginaw bracket, the one for the 2F, that bolts on with two head bolts? All I've been able to figure out is that it's kinda pricey ($170), and that it's problematic if you haven't desmogged. If the quality is good, and it's an easy fit when the smog pump and hard vac lines are out of the way, it seems like it could be worth all the saved time.

3. What's better: junkyard pump for $50, say, or a rebuilt one (with no core charge) for $100ish? I'm having trouble finding a brand new one anywhere online.

4. Does anyone have more pictures of This type of mounting solution? I can't find anything that clearly shows how it works with the stock bracket in back (towards the firewall).

 

[Pighead]

I have the 2-front-head-bolts PS pumpmount bracket, got it from Mudrak, lots of vendors sell it. It works.
Also, contact orangefj45 about his dorey bracket.
Get a rebuilt pump with a warranty, mine is 3 years. Take it back every 2 years.

 

[GeologistFelix]

Ok, I spent another couple of hours reading up on desmog/power steering related topics, and got some crazy ideas...

Here's one possible scenario...

1. Do my desmog.
2. Mount the saginaw pump in place of the smog pump, probably using the $65 bracket that Mark of Marksoffroad has.
3. Run a belt to the alt over the forward slot in the water pump pulley.
4. When I get around to it, convert the Saginaw to a remote reservoir.
5. Mount a York compressor modded for OBA where the original PS pump was, and run it on the Alt/PS belt.

Here's a diagram I made to make it more clear:

 

[norsk]

I have the 2-front-head-bolts PS pumpmount bracket, got it from Mudrak, lots of vendors sell it. It works.
Also, contact orangefj45 about his dorey bracket.
Get a rebuilt pump with a warranty, mine is 3 years. Take it back every 2 years.

okay, exactly who and what are their links

orangefj45 is out at the moment.

doug

 

[meigsrock]

Here is another option to consider.

Some people use the PS system off of 1990's pickups.

You mount the pump in the same spot but the reservoir is remote mounted on the fender so it does not leak on the smog pump causing it to freeze up.

Having the pulley in the same spot keeps things simple.

Sorry I don't know more about it but I would look into this route. Pickup parts are cheaper and easier to find in general than LC parts, so it may be a cheap fix / mod.

Some one else also makes a desomg pully to go where the smog pump goes. I Can't remember exactly who but I would check CCOT or Man-a-free for it.

 

[dansawyer]

I have a new bracket which I purchased for a conversion, however my 60 is not desmogged so the hard lines are in the way. It was all part of a 'kit' I purchased, including pulley and rebuild Saginaw. Any of the above is available at reasonably.

The major issues are:

1. bracket mount design and choice
2. pulley alignment
3. pulley width
4. pressure hose fit (minor)

 

[fj4play]

i went to pnp and got a volvo pump with mounting hardware off the volvo, the volvo pump has metric high pressure hose hooks up direct to the old toy hose,and the pulley is close to the same size as the toy pulley, you use the old toy ps bracket and belt , you have to make a small bracket ans a couple of spacers.
it cost me about $60 and a couple of hours labor, best mod under a $100 hands down.

 

[Cruzerman]

On my 60, I have the belt arrangement like GeologistFelix shows in his Phase One drawing. I really like the fact that there are now two belts running the water pump.

 

[GeologistFelix]

On my 60, I have the belt arrangement like GeologistFelix shows in his Phase One drawing. I really like the fact that there are now two belts running the water pump.

How did you mount the pump down there? Mark A.'s bracket looks nice, but if I can make it work without that, but also without welding, I'd probably rather save the $65 for, say, the saginaw pump.

 

[Spike Strip]

How did you mount the pump down there? Mark W.'s bracket looks nice, but if I can make it work without that, but also without welding, I'd probably rather save the $65 for, say, the saginaw pump.

Mark A's bracket (Algazy)

It's worth the money.

 

[GeologistFelix]

Edited!

Also, I guess it's time to start gathering parts.

 

[Cruzerman]

How did you mount the pump down there? Mark A.'s bracket looks nice, but if I can make it work without that, but also without welding, I'd probably rather save the $65 for, say, the saginaw pump.

I bought one of the brackets that uses the head bolts. It is available from a number of vendors. Mine came from Lance at Iron Pig. This bracket lets you adjust how far back or forward the pump sits allowing you to run it off different pulley grooves.

 

[esh]

I guess my belt setup is Stage X/Stage 3?? The PS is on driver's side high and the the York takes up the alternator stock location, with the alternator outboarded from the York using Mudrak's bracket. I use a Napa industrial type (toyota kind of thick) 75" (or 57"??) belt to tie it all together.

I have an oem pump going to a saginaw box in the trail 40 and it has been the best steering truck I've ever had (just on 35s). I have Trollhole's desmog carb (1 vacuum port to dist, runs sweet, getting about 14-15mpg from recent tanks via GPS).

There are pics if you go to my profile and then into the Garage, or just use the Garage link at the nav bar above.

<----- oh, I guess there is a Garage link over here as well.

If you decide to go with a Saginaw box, BE SURE to plate both sides of your frame and do not use just a rectangular piece of steel.. you need to weld along a curve to tie into the frame. I can take pics of what I'm talking about if you need it, but Butch Lewis (R.I.P.) and Mudrak setups usually have what I am talking about. Medusa also does it on his stuff (as I am sure many others that don't worry about cracking their frame or having their box ripped off the frame). edit: added a pic in the FJ45 garage to show what I'm talking about.

 

[GeologistFelix]

No need to screw with the frame/steering box. My stock steering box is in pretty good shape. Worst case scenario, it'll leak when it has more pressure going through it, and need to be rebuilt.