Getting started on a desmog (2 Viewers)

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Joined
Feb 5, 2024
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Location
texarkana tx
I'm getting ready to start desmogging my 60. I'm planning on the kit from man a fre. On their website they state that it would be better to go with a weber carb, hei distributor, and headers. I would prefer to keep everything Toyota and keep the OEM manifold. I understand that I would need to send off my carb and dizzy to be rebuilt. Who do yall suggest? I've read that trollhole does wonders on carbs. Does he also do distributors. If not, any suggestions? How do I contact troll hole for his services? I've googled with poor results. Would you guys stay with the original iron manifold? Thanks.
 
The primary question to ask yourself is, “What do I want to accomplish?”
In my experience, the only thing to get rid of is the air injection system since it takes up so much space. Everything else can remain.

Yes, if you want to run the engine without EGR, the stock distributor timing will need to be re-curved so the engine doesn’t ping.
 
Jim C rebuilt my OEM carb and re-curved my dizzy. I stripped it down to just the basic engine and I live at 8k feet. I went with a header. No issues.

 
I'm getting ready to start desmogging my 60. I'm planning on the kit from man a fre. On their website they state that it would be better to go with a weber carb, hei distributor, and headers. I would prefer to keep everything Toyota and keep the OEM manifold. I understand that I would need to send off my carb and dizzy to be rebuilt. Who do yall suggest? I've read that trollhole does wonders on carbs. Does he also do distributors. If not, any suggestions? How do I contact troll hole for his services? I've googled with poor results. Would you guys stay with the original iron manifold? Thanks.

I wouldn't use a Weber personally. The stock Aisin works just fine, and wouldn't need rebuilt just for a de-smog if it is otherwise working well.

Jim C. @FJ40Jim is the go-to guy for recurving Denso distributors. It's just the advance curve that needs tweaked; you can get by for a while by slightly retarding your base timing (until it doesn't ping under load), or sometimes just by running mid-grade gas.

The stock exhaust manifold also works fine; you'll need a block-off plate for the hole on the bottom side that currently feeds the EGR. And you'll have to braze or weld a plug in the fitting on the intake manifold where the EGR goes into now.
 
The primary question to ask yourself is, “What do I want to accomplish?”
In my experience, the only thing to get rid of is the air injection system since it takes up so much space. Everything else can remain.

Yes, if you want to run the engine without EGR, the stock distributor timing will need to be re-curved so the engine
Jim C rebuilt my OEM carb and re-curved my dizzy. I stripped it down to just the basic engine and I live at 8k feet. I went with a header. No issues.

Thanks so much for the info. Just what I needed.
 
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I wouldn't use a Weber personally. The stock Aisin works just fine, and wouldn't need rebuilt just for a de-smog if it is otherwise working well.

Jim C. @FJ40Jim is the go-to guy for recurving Denso distributors. It's just the advance curve that needs tweaked; you can get by for a while by slightly retarding your base timing (until it doesn't ping under load), or sometimes just by running mid-grade gas.

The stock exhaust manifold also works fine; you'll need a block-off plate for the hole on the bottom side that currently feeds the EGR. And you'll have to braze or weld a plug in the fitting on the intake manifold where the EGR goes into
 
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There is a desmog manual that is buried in that desmog thread that is quite helpful. Soikestrip also posted that manual. Ditto on Jim C for the carb and dizzy. Jim c also sells the idler pulley, block off plate, and air rail plugs.
 
There is a desmog manual that is buried in that desmog thread that is quite helpful. Soikestrip also posted that manual. Ditto on Jim C for the carb and dizzy. Jim c also sells the idler pulley, block off plate, and air rail plugs.
Sounds like jim c is a one stop shop. I believe I have downloaded the pdf manual you speak of. Thanks so much for the information.
 
Reddog90, what is this radiator hose adapter? If you look at my hose, it’s too close for my comfort to the PS belt, I twisted the hose before clamping which helped.
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It looks like you've capped off the vent from your distributor cap, I believe you should vent that to your air cleaner at a minimum to avoid a buildup of ozone within the cap.
 
Thank you for the info, I’m looking for more room, mine is too close and now I can have a back up water temp.

I have the larger vent hose connected and that runs to the corner of the firewall behind the window washer. But I can easily run a second vent up to the air cleaner.
 
I have the larger vent hose connected and that runs to the corner of the firewall behind the window washer. But I can easily run a second vent up to the air cleaner.
Please ignore my suggestion to run a vent straight into the air cleaner from the distributor, that's actually bad advice and I apologize for that.
The reason is that it creates a pathway for fuel vapors to get into the distributor after shutting off a warm engine, hence the reason for a VCV in the stock setup. And anyways, if you're already venting the dizzy then it's not only bad advice, it's useless too...
 
Canceling second vent. Thanks for looking out either way. Appreciate it.
 

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