I searched and read many threads but never found any specifics on what pump to use, what belts, etc. So two afternoons, 4-5 trips to several different parts stores, and many beers later, here is what I came up with.
This is for doing a Saginaw power steering pump conversion in a completely desmogged FJ60. NOTE: specs on belts for a smogged truck will be different.
Parts:
I'm not going to go into specifics, but here is the basic procedure in case it's useful:
Prep: Mount the pulley to the pump and the pump to the bracket (it's easier to get at the bolts with it out of the car). It's also a lot easier to get at everything if you remove the big fresh air intake hose from the filter housing before getting started.
Step 1: Remove both outer belts (can leave A/C belt on if you have one).
Step 2: Remove the high pressure hose from the pump to the box. Place a pan and/or towels under the car as you'll obviously leak some fluid. Be very careful not to let gunk get in the box.
Step 3: Remove the idler pulley or cored air pump and entire bracket - you won't need it any more.
Step 4: Remove the entire steering pump bracket. Do not bother trying to remove the OE steering pump from the bracket - you won't be able to get the inside bolt all the way out as it binds against the manifold. At least mine did.
Step 5: You should now have a completely bare front, d/s of the engine. The 4+ bracket mounts to the front two head studs. These are torqued to about 85 lbs., so you'll need a breaker bar. Remove the studs (when engine is cold).
Step 6: Place the bracket with pump in the car and thread the head studs back in until finger tight - you'll need to mess with the alignment a bit. The pulley on the new pump needs to align with the inner pulleys on the crank and water pump.
Step 7: Once you've got it aligned, tighten down the head studs a bit so it doesn't move. place the longer (54") belt over the steering pump pulley, inner water pump pulley, and inner crank pulley. Spin everything to make sure it's still lined up properly. The belt should be perfectly centered - not riding up the edge of any of the pulleys.
Step 8: Install the new high pressure hose between the pump and steering box. You should be able to thread both ends in pretty easily with your fingers (you'll figure out which end is which, metric vs. standard). Tighten with wrench (obviously).
Step 9: Re-torque the head studs (85 lbs.) and tighten the belt via the new 4+ bracket, and cinch all bolts on the bracket down tight.
Step 10: Place the shorter belt over the alternator, outer water pump pulley and outer crank pulley. Tighten via the alternator. You should have both belts running the water pump.
Step 11: Fill saginaw pump to cold full line. Jack up the front of the truck and cycle the steering wheel from lock to lock 30-40 times, checking the steering fluid level (should not let it get below cold full). Put the cap on, start up the motor and do the same with it running (not sure if this is necessary, but I did it).
Step 12: Lower the car and clean up your crap - you're done.
This is an after-the-fact write up, so I apologize if I left anything out. I didn't think of doing this until I was done, which is also why I didn't take pictures.
Hope it helps.
This is for doing a Saginaw power steering pump conversion in a completely desmogged FJ60. NOTE: specs on belts for a smogged truck will be different.
Parts:
- 4+ Saginaw pump bracket from MAF (LINK)
- Saginaw pump from a 1970 GM pickup (keyhole pulley mount type, with reservoir)
- Wide belt pump pulley from MAF (LINK)
- Toyota box to Saginaw pump (metric to standard) conversion hose from JTO (LINK)
- One 11/16"x54" v belt
- One 11/16"x51" v belt
- Dexron ATF fluid - about a quart
I'm not going to go into specifics, but here is the basic procedure in case it's useful:
Prep: Mount the pulley to the pump and the pump to the bracket (it's easier to get at the bolts with it out of the car). It's also a lot easier to get at everything if you remove the big fresh air intake hose from the filter housing before getting started.
Step 1: Remove both outer belts (can leave A/C belt on if you have one).
Step 2: Remove the high pressure hose from the pump to the box. Place a pan and/or towels under the car as you'll obviously leak some fluid. Be very careful not to let gunk get in the box.
Step 3: Remove the idler pulley or cored air pump and entire bracket - you won't need it any more.
Step 4: Remove the entire steering pump bracket. Do not bother trying to remove the OE steering pump from the bracket - you won't be able to get the inside bolt all the way out as it binds against the manifold. At least mine did.
Step 5: You should now have a completely bare front, d/s of the engine. The 4+ bracket mounts to the front two head studs. These are torqued to about 85 lbs., so you'll need a breaker bar. Remove the studs (when engine is cold).
Step 6: Place the bracket with pump in the car and thread the head studs back in until finger tight - you'll need to mess with the alignment a bit. The pulley on the new pump needs to align with the inner pulleys on the crank and water pump.
Step 7: Once you've got it aligned, tighten down the head studs a bit so it doesn't move. place the longer (54") belt over the steering pump pulley, inner water pump pulley, and inner crank pulley. Spin everything to make sure it's still lined up properly. The belt should be perfectly centered - not riding up the edge of any of the pulleys.
Step 8: Install the new high pressure hose between the pump and steering box. You should be able to thread both ends in pretty easily with your fingers (you'll figure out which end is which, metric vs. standard). Tighten with wrench (obviously).
Step 9: Re-torque the head studs (85 lbs.) and tighten the belt via the new 4+ bracket, and cinch all bolts on the bracket down tight.
Step 10: Place the shorter belt over the alternator, outer water pump pulley and outer crank pulley. Tighten via the alternator. You should have both belts running the water pump.
Step 11: Fill saginaw pump to cold full line. Jack up the front of the truck and cycle the steering wheel from lock to lock 30-40 times, checking the steering fluid level (should not let it get below cold full). Put the cap on, start up the motor and do the same with it running (not sure if this is necessary, but I did it).
Step 12: Lower the car and clean up your crap - you're done.
This is an after-the-fact write up, so I apologize if I left anything out. I didn't think of doing this until I was done, which is also why I didn't take pictures.
Hope it helps.
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