SAFARI Turbo Dyno Results - AFR Questions

[yoda-g3]

It doesn't clearly show it, but the Safari manifold is divided/twin scroll and uses a T3 flange. The turbo (Garrett) uses a divided/twin scroll T3 housing.

Yoda-G3 are you saying someone has drilled a hole in the Safari manifold and has the EGT sensor mounted in it at the #6 exhaust port?

By someone you are referring to me. I did the install myself. Hopefully that wasn't a bonehead move. But yes is just a few inches away from the exhaust port.

I did hours and hours of research a few years ago trying to figure out the best spot on a gasser and I decided that the temps on the hottest cylinder coming out was the most important. Looking back I wouldn't have bothered. Seemed like a neat way to use my dual gauge pod, but an engine temp of AFR would've been more practical.

It's been there about 30k without issues.

 

[yoda-g3]

Here's a pic of it. Luckily my buddy had just picked up a nice plasma cutter for the heat shield.

 

[Wheelingnoob]

Here's a pic of it. Luckily my buddy had just picked up a nice plasma cutter for the heat shield.

View attachment 620300

I see no issues with that placement, you are getting an EGT sample from the cylinder that usually runs hottest on a in-line 6.

 

[IanB]

14.7 AFR is ideal for emmissions, cars are tuned to run at that AFR during normal driving. Wide open throttle on even a naturally aspirated engine should be low 13's or richer, boosted engines low 12's or richer.

I'm glad to see you're figuring this out BEFORE you toast the engine, but you need to find a way to get some more fuel in there.

 

[turbocruiser]

a stock system runs at 14.7 until open loop and then goes to 12.3.

People who have wide band O2 sensors on both SC and TC trucks typically see 14.7 until open loop, then a short time of 12.3 and then 8.6 with a stock MAF or 10.1 with my MAF afterwards.

As stated that is really too lean and I'd blame the unichip for it.

Exactly correct, get that unichip out of there!

 

[jertiffauk]

Hey all, it's been a while since this thread was active, however during my search I found this thread to be right on for what I'm looking for. I too have the Safari Turbo set up, and have removed the uni-chip just to be safe. My question is does anyone have any AFR reference running this setup on the stock ECU? I need to get a wide band, but was looking for some info from you all? Or if you know someone running this setup let me know, thanks!

 

[yoda-g3]

Smart move!

You can follow how my drama unfolded from running that damn Unichip for years before major $$$$ last spring. I'm still amazed I didn't melt a piston or warp the head.

My fun started with this thread "bragging" about my dyno results, then quickly devolved into this saga of sourcing parts.:

Help sourcing Safari Turbo Exhaust Housing - .82AR

Here is a post install issue I had with some of the numbers you are looking at later on in the thread.

Help ASAP! - Safari Turbo Rebuild - Too Much Boost - Heading on camping trip!

I got the actuator dialed in a bit better and have been seeing 7-8psi @ WOT with similar results on AFR's. I do have a rising rate FMU that will change my results from yours, but I think just in the speed in which the AFR richens up. Kind of an abrupt drop from 12.5 ish to 10.

I don't like running the the compressor port straight to the actuator to adjust boost and will probably add some sort of valve to it this spring. It just seems to build boost slower now like it's slowly leaking past the WG, and some of the valves have a pressure spring that will wait to open at a certain threshold. Worth playing with. :dunno:

(EDIT: Worth noting I have an AFR permanently installed now so let me know if you have any more questions. Its not like I need to go do a dyno run to look at numbers.)

 

[jertiffauk]

Smart move!

You can follow how my drama unfolded from running that damn Unichip for years before major $$$$ last spring. I'm still amazed I didn't melt a piston or warp the head.

My fun started with this thread "bragging" about my dyno results, then quickly devolved into this saga of sourcing parts.:

Help sourcing Safari Turbo Exhaust Housing - .82AR

Here is a post install issue I had with some of the numbers you are looking at later on in the thread.

Help ASAP! - Safari Turbo Rebuild - Too Much Boost - Heading on camping trip!

I got the actuator dialed in a bit better and have been seeing 7-8psi @ WOT with similar results on AFR's. I do have a rising rate FMU that will change my results from yours, but I think just in the speed in which the AFR richens up. Kind of an abrupt drop from 12.5 ish to 10.

I don't like running the the compressor port straight to the actuator to adjust boost and will probably add some sort of valve to it this spring. It just seems to build boost slower now like it's slowly leaking past the WG, and some of the valves have a pressure spring that will wait to open at a certain threshold. Worth playing with. :dunno:

(EDIT: Worth noting I have an AFR permanently installed now so let me know if you have any more questions. Its not like I need to go do a dyno run to look at numbers.)

Thanks for the info. A few months ago after reading your thread I found a crack in my turbo housing as well... Luckily the PO had a good relationship with Al, the owner of ManAFre. He has sold me a refurbished turbo assembly from Safari that he had at his shop. The last one around that he or I know of... I'm currently running stock ECU so I might be on the rich side of AFR's, but that's ok for now. I'm going to have my headers and down pipe coated, as well as put in a bung for a wideband before I put the new turbo in. Once I get the AFR gauge I might bump the boost up a bit.