S.O.S.!! Leaking cv axle oil seal, replaced seal 3 times now STILL leaking!

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Interestingly, I'm having a similar issue. Just replaced with new OEM seal. Made sure it was even and flush all around, and it still seeps ever so slightly. Doesn't actually drip though. I was thinking of leaving it for a month and see if maybe it stops. What would you guys do? I'm perplexed.
 
Interestingly, I'm having a similar issue. Just replaced with new OEM seal. Made sure it was even and flush all around, and it still seeps ever so slightly. Doesn't actually drip though. I was thinking of leaving it for a month and see if maybe it stops. What would you guys do? I'm perplexed.

If it isn't actively leaking, I would monitoring over the next week or so. Is it possible that it is residual fluid that squeezed out during the install process? Maybe clean off the area thoroughly and go for a drive and then check it again?
 
Well... Definitely a leak 🥴. Now I have to do it all over again
 
Check that your differential breather isn't plugged. And, as has been highlighted on these boards recently, a new seal won't help if you have grooves worn into your inboard shaft on the sealing surface. Also make sure you're pressing the seal in the correct distance.
 
Thanks for insight. Breather is fine. Not plugged. I'll check for grooves when I go to change it out again. Are you talking about on the axle shaft itself?

It wasn't leaking before, but I decided to change it since I had the axle out. I had a rough time putting the axle back in, and I'm guessing I damaged the seal.
 
Definitely check CV shaft (see my pic, page 5 of thread below)
Also, make sure seal is even and flush with diff.
Review this thread:
 
Curious, is the axle OEM?

The set position of the seal makes a big difference between leak and no-leak. In too far- it leaks, out too far, it leaks.

IMG_1686.webp
 
The axle is from CVJ axles. It's about 5 years old. I bought the OEM re-manufactured one.

One thing I did not do was grease the outside of the seal after it was installed. Will that make any difference?

Also, what do you guys normally crimp the brake line with? I see people use vice grips, but I would think that it could damage the line, no?
I'm going to completely remove the spindle this time so that it's out of the way, and I have have a clear shot at putting the axle in.

Curious, is the axle OEM?

The set position of the seal makes a big difference between leak and no-leak. In too far- it leaks, out too far, it leaks.

View attachment 2309002
 
The axle is from CVJ axles. It's about 5 years old. I bought the OEM re-manufactured one.

One thing I did not do was grease the outside of the seal after it was installed. Will that make any difference?

Also, what do you guys normally crimp the brake line with? I see people use vice grips, but I would think that it could damage the line, no?
I'm going to completely remove the spindle this time so that it's out of the way, and I have have a clear shot at putting the axle in.

IDK- Putting a dab of grease around the opening of the seal might help to protect edge when you go to install the axle. You definitely have to be careful when installing the axle; the stub or the locking ring can nick the seal and you'll get a leak. Can you identify where its leaking from: at the axle or between the edge of the seal and the diff? 5yrs on that CVJ axle- has it always leaked?

Crimping Brake Line? For what purpose?
 
Did you use an OEM seal?
Is it seated like the picture above?

Just disconnect the caliper from the spindle.

Post a picture of a CV axle oil seal surface.
 
Curious, is the axle OEM?

The set position of the seal makes a big difference between leak and no-leak. In too far- it leaks, out too far, it leaks.

View attachment 2309002
This picture is spot on. I was dealing with this issue recently. Some how on the initial install of the cv, the seal was bumped and pushed back, causing a leak. I gently pried using and angled screw driver, pulling the seal flush with the edge, then took extreme care on cv axle reinsert install as to not bump the seal. So far so good.
 
The axle is from CVJ axles. It's about 5 years old. I bought the OEM re-manufactured one.

One thing I did not do was grease the outside of the seal after it was installed. Will that make any difference?

Also, what do you guys normally crimp the brake line with? I see people use vice grips, but I would think that it could damage the line, no?
I'm going to completely remove the spindle this time so that it's out of the way, and I have have a clear shot at putting the axle in.
There's no need to disconnect the brake line, so no need to crimp it. Remove the caliper with the brake line attached and carefully secure it out of the way with a piece of wire, strap, or something like that. Don't hang it by the brake line. It's much easier to avoid disconnecting the brake line so you don't have to bleed the brakes.
 
Take a straight edge and put it across the end of the axle tube. That is where the sharp inner lip of the seal should be. No further in or out.
 
Not sure if this applies here, but I think it might.

I tried replacing the seals with the diff in the car. It leaked. Worse than before. I removed the diff and tried again. It worked. Leak fixed. I suspect I didn't get the seals seated exactly parallel when the diff was in the car. Space is tight and it's hard to hit it head on. Removing the diff and doing the seals on the bench seemed to do the trick.

New axles could also solve this. There's a very tight tolerance on this sort of seal. If the axle shaft is worn a new seal might never seal. Yet one more reason brand new OEM axles are a good idea.
 
Ok. Replaced it, and did a long test drive. So far so good. No leaks.

Here is how the new one sits
View attachment 2314652
I am in the same boat, different storm. I just finished fiddling with this for the third time myself, 2nd seal. About to top off the diff and take it hopefully for the last test drive. I think the culprit on installing these seals, at least on mine, was a very thin band of rust forms on the outer edge of the tube causing the seal to not fully do it's thing. I spent extra time prepping the inner part of diff tube, hopefully it works as I am running out of steam dealing with this last bit.
 
It looks well below the edge all the way around. The goal is to press the seal even/flush with the edge, not recessed below it. But if doesnt leak its good enough.
 
It looks well below the edge all the way around. The goal is to press the seal even/flush with the edge, not recessed below it. But if doesnt leak its good enough.
Even with the edge of that recessed face though, right? The inner lip should be even with the outer portion of the tube, but the outer portion of the seal should be pressed even with the inner recessed face. At least, that's the way I understand it, and that's how many others including 2001LC show it I think.
 

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