RW vs ICON wheels

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fogby

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I'm getting ready to do change wheels & tires on my 19LC. I really like the look of the ICON rebounds but have to admit just inherently feel better going with the proven Toyota product. Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Secondly, if I go with the RW I think I'd want to powder coat the lock ring a matte black. Has anyone done this or have any negatives to this approach?

Thanks a bunch for your assistance. I've bugged a few people on ICON threads already and am appreciative of all the insight.
 
I'll tell you this much...

When I had my Tacoma I bought an ICON stage 4 suspension kit. Within 8 months I had two leaking coilovers and shortly after a leaking rear shock. Based on how ICON handled these issues, I'll never again buy anything from that company, and wouldn't suggest it to anyone else, either. Get the RWs.
 
TRD CENTER CAP IS BLACK AS WELL .
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Rock Warrior = Forged Aluminum made by/for Toyota. That is all I needed to know to make my decision. Besides BBS TRD Pro wheels, I haven’t found anything else forged. If I ever run out of RWs, I’ll start buying BBS 18”
 
Buy what you like the looks and specs of between the two. Icons have 25mm more offset and are .5” wider than RWs. There are lots of folks on here running Icon wheels, and no reported issues that I’ve seen.
The biggest downside to RWs, is they are over twice the price new. Used rims are out there, but most of them have already lived a long life. Also, if you’re looking for a wider stance than stock, you’ll get more width from the Icons. Lots of folks end up running spacers with their RWs to get the stance you get with ICONs.
I don’t think you can go wrong with either. Don’t buy the hype that RWs are the only answer.
I don’t have either at the moment, but have contemplated this decision for quite some time. I’ve got a set of 1/2 tread 18” Duratracs to wear out still and haven’t even put 200 miles on my truck since mid March, so I’ve still got some time. If I find one of those mythical $500 sets of RWs before then, it’ll make my decision for me.
 
I'm speaking from functional perspective if you are getting rims get the lightweight forged as it makes Toyota feel springier with less mass on the axle. I prefer the stock look but the KO2s really pop with the RW. My buddy has an expedition and his KO2s dont look like mine according to him. Once I put them on I never looked back. I've had 4.5 sets of KO2s, but saved my last 10 wheels for myself.
 
No issues with my ICONs 😊
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No issues with my Icon Six Speed wheels. I prefer the +25 offset of the wheel to running a 1" spacer on a RW. Weight-wise they are almost the same as the RWs.
 
No issues with the Rebounds on my ’18.
 
No problems with my Rebounds. Looks are very subjective and personally I don't love any of them. RW would not work with my 285/75 KO2's unless I used spacers so that was out of the question.

I think that the whole "Forged" wheel argument is overblown. The weight difference is not significant enough (2.7lbs?). Tire selection makes a bigger difference in weight. This is a heavy SUV, most people won't notice the difference. If you're really worried about strength, perhaps you should look into a beedlock instead.

My last issue with the RW is that they are more scarce these days. Oo if you do need to replace on it will be harder and double the price of the Icons.

EVO Corsa's are also a good option as you can customize offset. Only downside is the wait time.
 
MrEPoo said:
No problems with my Rebounds. Looks are very subjective and personally I don't love any of them. RW would not work with my 285/75 KO2's unless I used spacers so that was out of the question.

I think that the whole "Forged" wheel argument is overblown. The weight difference is not significant enough (2.7lbs?). Tire selection makes a bigger difference in weight. This is a heavy SUV, most people won't notice the difference. If you're really worried about strength, perhaps you should look into a beedlock instead.

My last issue with the RW is that they are more scarce these days. Oo if you do need to replace on it will be harder and double the price of the Icons.

EVO Corsa's are also a good option as you can customize offset. Only downside is the wait time.
Click to expand...

For OEM to RW, the weight difference is a little over 9lbs, or approaching a 30% weight reduction. I agree tire selection is important, but you can definitely tell the difference in braking, and although I did not test, I believe in acceleration as well.

From personal experience I know a bent rim on a forged wheel can be straightened and the wheel reused. Cast wheels tend to crack/break and are not really repairable for anything more than curb rash.

I haven't personally found a more cost effective forged wheel than those offered through Toyota.

But like you said, beauty is in the eye of the beholder. So no matter what it weighs - if an owner thinks one wheel is uglier than another ......

Edit: I'm getting old and haven't run beadlock wheels for decades, but "in the day" they were always about retaining the tire in one spot on the rim when airing down (not ripping the valve stem off a tube - see how old I am). Do modern beadlocks add strength?
 
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LBridges said:
For OEM to RW, the weight difference is a little over 9lbs, or approaching a 30% weight reduction. I agree tire selection is important, but you can definitely tell the difference in braking, and although I did not test, I believe in acceleration as well.

From personal experience I know a bent rim on a forged wheel can be straightened and the wheel reused. Cast wheels tend to crack/break and are not really repairable for anything more than curb rash.

I haven't personally found a more cost effective forged wheel than those offered through Toyota.

But like you said, beauty is in the eye of the beholder. So no matter what it weighs - if an owner thinks one wheel is uglier than another ......

Edit: I'm getting old and haven't run beadlock wheels for decades, but "in the day" they were always about retaining the tire in one spot on the rim when airing down (not ripping the valve stem off a tube - see how old I am). Do modern beadlocks add strength?
Click to expand...

RW weigh 27.3lbs and Rebounds are 30lbs so it’s a 10% difference in weight between the wheels the OP is debating on (assuming a 17in icon of course). Edit: Weight difference is roughly 6lbs between the wheels the OP is debating which is big enough to notice but not huge on our cars. RW cost 2.5 times what the icons are going for at the moment. You might be able to repair the RW or you can purchase spare icons or get them in the future. That’s harder with the RW but not impossible.

Beadlocks are pretty extreme. You can repair or replace pieces of them and they do seem to be much more engineered these days mostly with software. But really my point in bringing them up is only that most people think they are going to be doing some really crazy wheelin but once they get out there reality sets in and... let’s just say most don’t push their cars to breaking points.
 
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Might I also correct myself in that I don’t “love” the design of either wheel but I think the RWs look better. Especially in all these color options members are doing!
 
LBridges said:
I think you have remembered them with a transposed digit.

RWs with the ring weigh 23.7lbs, and without the stainless trim ring they are 21.5lbs.
Click to expand...

Well that’s a big enough difference to notice. I will edit my earlier response so I don’t spread misinformation. I got that number off of a quick wheel weight search from a different site.
 
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