Rusty Wagon Rebuild (1 Viewer)

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kevinmrowland said:
Also got the roof net back in.

IMG_7883.jpg



This is the only way to layout where the holes need to go:

IMG_7881.jpg



Looks pretty bad in this pic, but it gets the job done, really handy for truck camping:

IMG_7886.jpg



Hopefully get more done tomorrow.
:cheers:
Click to expand...

Kevin, The rig looks superb. As do your new WG products! Can't wait to put in an order for the under-seat boxes. You and your creative enthusiasm for people and Landcruisers is what makes this place so great!

I would like a little more info on your headliner cargo net build.

Did you make a custom net or buy a commercially produced product?
Could you explain a little more about the process for finding the locations to install the hooks?

Thanks and keep up the strong work!
 
Marketing

Production volume has to be high enough to have inventory ready to go before marketing at high level's become improtant. And Kevin's quality and attention to detail is highly prized and appreciated by those who have given his products a try. I for one would love to see his site and marketing make him a fortune, as long as he keeps it like it has been, correct right on the money, fit's right and truthfully slightly underpriced for the quality he gives, Oh and to make this post tech what size hole should I be drilling for the window opener? Now that I know it's on the way. Oh and Ward what do you mean rust some of us spend hours, days, and even years getting rid of that brown stuff from our classic cruisers. LMAO just my .02 gotta love FJ-60's
 
shredlightly said:
Did you make a custom net or buy a commercially produced product?
Could you explain a little more about the process for finding the locations to install the hooks?
Click to expand...
Hey shred, the net is one half of an elastic cargo net I got from Mcmaster carr years and years ago. As far as I know they still have the same thing.
The mount points can pretty much go wherever there is metal, I try to keep them all lined up nicely and evenly spaced, but as long as you are drilling into the reinforcing channels you will be all set. In that pic you can see what the roof rail looks like that you are dealing with, the other side is a mirror image.

IndianDoc said:
Production volume has to be high enough to have inventory ready to go before marketing at high level's become improtant.
Click to expand...
Most times I am just able to keep the standard things on hand but almost everything else is custom made per truck/per order so volume is not really in the cards. A little bit of marketing might help to keep things a bit more steady but you never can tell what people are going to line up for next, I'll go from selling a bunch of one thing all at once to a whole year of nobody getting that thing again. It's very hit or miss.
IndianDoc said:
Oh and to make this post tech what size hole should I be drilling for the window opener? Now that I know it's on the way.
Click to expand...
Oh right, you wanted a custom mount location, over to the vendor forum for more info...
:cheers:
KR
 
Congrats on getting back on the road! I miss getting to pop over and see what you are playing with!
 
Kevin, every time I see pics of your truck I get a little feeling of satisfaction that I played a small part in the resurrection. And a little guilty feeling for keeping the not-so-rusty truck...

I'm road tripping over the ThanksTurkey weekend, will you be around home? I'd love to see your truck in realtime, and pick up some blackout seals for my rear windows.
 
Hay Kev, is there a more detailed write up on the light you replaced the rear gate light with? In the photo above I can see a light on a flexible shaft. What is the brand? Is it LED? did it fit as seen or did you mod it?
 
Naw, that's pretty much it. It's just a Hella long neck map-light. It's NOT LED but i wish it were and have been meaning to replace it with one that is.
I had a customer tell me that they saw a cost effective one with a red and a white LED in it that had a selector switch (not that you need red back there). The downside was that it did not have as long of an arm and that arm length is the great part about it.

The rear dome light gets it's ground from a little spade terminal on the latch of the liftgate, I've never had anything but problems with that. The nice thing about the light being switched ground is that there is always power at the light so I used the factory wire, spliced the plug on the feed for the light and grounded the light to an aluminum plate that I shaped and drilled to match the OE light shape and mount right to the factory light spot with the factory hardware. Super clean and super easy.

:cheers:
KR
IMG_7641.jpg
 
Kevin:

Just read through this again, as I'm about to undertake a similar undertaking (but not quite as nice).

Couple of questions for you:
  • What would you do differently?
  • How is the 1HZ-T on the long hills (now that yours is rebuilt)? Does it get hot going up the long passes, or does it stay pretty cool all the time?
  • My rust free body and frame will be repainted either way, and I'm planning on bedlining the underside entirely for rust prevention, and sound deadening--but what else might I miss?

Dan
 
Hey Dan,
Not sure if I would really do anything different, hindsight is 20-20 but I try to do the best I can at any given time, so the job I did was the job I did. :p
But:
First thing I would do different is paint it grey. :doh:
We mis our grey body.
On that same note, I maybe should have found a better body, this one has some bends and bumps and had more rust around the window frame than I thought (old bad repairs, hard to spot in the harsh mid-day sun on faded paint) Also replacing the rear sill was more work than it was worth, etc.
I don't think I would powder coat the frame.
I was on the fence about it at the time but went with it for simplicity, a good epoxy primer would have been just as good if not better. The acid dip was great though.
I should have rebuilt the engine at the same time I guess. :bang:


The HZ has always been fine on long hills, it makes heat, but if it starts to get hot, a tiny bit less skinny pedal and it cools right down. You can pretty much always go up most any hill at the speed limit without getting too hot, you might not be able to pass on all hills without too much heat though.

Be careful when bedlining the bottom of the truck, you'll notice I didn't bother doing so, I find that in most cases it seals in more than it keeps out. If you go with it just make sure everything can drain still and you don't seal anything up. Bedlining the bottom of the truck is like sealing the lowest few rows of shingles on a roof. Where is the water that gets in above supposed to go?

Other than that, get ATF in any pinch welds you can get to. I still see that stuff seeping out of "sealed" seems a year later.
KR
 
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kevinmrowland said:
I should have rebuilt the engine at the same time I guess. :bang:
Click to expand...

I can definitely relate. Dad almost has the engine for the 40 rebuilt now, after all of that work...

The HZ has always been fine on long hills, it makes heat, but if it starts to get hot, a tiny bit less skinny pedal and it cools right down. You can pretty much always go up most any hill at the speed limit without getting too hot, you might not be able to pass on all hills without too much heat though.
Click to expand...

Good to know. That's exactly what I was wondering about the 1HZ-T in a 60. I'm used to a bit of that in the 2LT-E, but in the middle of the summer I actually have to stop twice on the way up to the Eisenhower/Johnson Tunnels (any time I go west) to let it cool, and it would be really nice to be able to keep moving up the hill, even if a bit slowly.

Good to know about the bedlining. I'm starting with a seriously rust free body, so may very well just squirt the ATF in and bedline the interior for some noise dampening and heat insulation...

Thanks!

Dan
 
Rob Faucett said:
Kevin - If we send a GoPro camera would you wear it in the shop with a running commentary? :bounce2::bounce:
Click to expand...

Hmmmmm..... web cam plus nominally scripted family adventures. It worked for MTV and a bunch of porn sites. Could just be the next hit for Discovery Channel. Instead of Duck Dynasty, it could be "Diesel Divas, the Quest". Some possible script ideas:
  • Kevin and Amy move to New Zealand
  • Tubby meets a Girlfriend
  • Rusty Wagon Gets a 1HZ
  • Rusty Wagon Gets a Safari Turbo
  • Kevin Seeks Dental Help to Address Grin Strain

All funded by the cable channel, of course....
 
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