Rustoration Advice (1 Viewer)

[BBradford]

I've had my '78 for nearly 2-years now and started to figure out my restoration priorities. The truck runs well and serves reasonably well as a daily driver. My first priority is to tackle the rust. From the attached photos, how big of a job am I looking at?

 

[Old Nick]

I've had my '78 for nearly 2-years now and started to figure out my restoration priorities. The truck runs well and serves reasonably well as a daily driver. My first priority is to tackle the rust. From the attached photos, how big of a job am I looking at?

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Not a 40 series owner, but the owner of other, once rusty LCs.

That tub is going to be rough, I'm guessing. And, the bubbles... you won't know what you're dealing with until you take a flap disc to them and start sanding away the bubbles. You'll likely find some swiss cheese where the rust has made its way through the sheet metal.

As you're in NH, unless you have a heated space to do your work, I would just soak all of those areas with fluid film, and wait for it to warm up before tackling the rust.

Are you planning to do the work yourself?

 

[BBradford]

Not a 40 series owner, but the owner of other, once rusty LCs.

That tub is going to be rough, I'm guessing. And, the bubbles... you won't know what you're dealing with until you take a flap disc to them and start sanding away the bubbles. You'll likely find some swiss cheese where the rust has made its way through the sheet metal.

As you're in NH, unless you have a heated space to do your work, I would just soak all of those areas with fluid film, and wait for it to warm up before tackling the rust.

Are you planning to do the work yourself?

If it's anything beyond a drill and wire brush, I likely won't be doing the restoration myself. Once I get a sense for the scale of work that needs to be done, I'll need to find some help.

 

[Old Nick]

If it's anything beyond a drill and wire brush, I likely won't be doing the restoration myself. Once I get a sense for the scale of work that needs to be done, I'll need to find some help.

Gotcha.

I'd wager that portions of the tub will need to be cut out, and likely, sections where there are bubbles appearing will need to be too. You're lucky with the 40 series though... lots of aftermarket options for patch panels and tubs.

The first LC that I bought - in fact every one that I've bought (laughing) - has needed rust repair. When I got quoted big bucks for those repairs, I decided to learn how to weld. It took a lot of time, screwing up and learning how to do things just about right, but it was a great experience. Picking up the welder now is a source of fun, rather than stress (and buying a decent welder was a fraction of the cost of having someone else do the work).

 

[BBradford]

Gotcha.

I'd wager that portions of the tub will need to be cut out, and likely, sections where there are bubbles appearing will need to be too. You're lucky with the 40 series though... lots of aftermarket options for patch panels and tubs.

The first LC that I bought - in fact every one that I've bought (laughing) - has needed rust repair. When I got quoted big bucks for those repairs, I decided to learn how to weld. It took a lot of time, screwing up and learning how to do things just about right, but it was a great experience. Picking up the welder now is a source of fun, rather than stress (and buying a decent welder was a fraction of the cost of having someone else do the work).

Much appreciated. I was hoping the tub rust could be knocked out with a grinder. One local Restoration Shop quoted +$50k.

 

[Old Nick]

Much appreciated. I was hoping the tub rust could be knocked out with a grinder. One local Restoration Shop quoted +$50k.

Sorry for all of the questions.

For $50k, would that be a body off frame restoration?

Or, is that just for cutting out the rust, welding in new panels and paint?

I'm in a different and less expensive part of the country. 5 years ago, I got a quote for $7k to cut out rust and weld in new metal (no paint). That's probably $10-12k in current fiat currency.

 

[BBradford]

Sorry for all of the questions.

For $50k, would that be a body off frame restoration?

Or, is that just for cutting out the rust, welding in new panels and paint?

I'm in a different and less expensive part of the country. 5 years ago, I got a quote for $7k to cut out rust and weld in new metal (no paint). That's probably $10-12k in current fiat currency.

The quote wasn't for an off-frame restoration, but did take care of all interior and exterior rust, and a full paint job (original color). I'm new to the FJ-40 world, and early on the learning curve, but +$50k seemed hard to justify.

 

[Old Nick]

The quote wasn't for an off-frame restoration, but did take care of all interior and exterior rust, and a full paint job (original color). I'm new to the FJ-40 world, and early on the learning curve, but +$50k seemed hard to justify.

Prices are all over the place, no doubt, but $50k, gosh, that's a lot.

If you do decide to splash out for a professional restoration, there are quite a few people here on Mud who do amazing work. You'd likely need to ship your truck out West, but it would come back like a new rig.

 

[Old Nick]

Whatever you choose to do, I wish you good luck, and hope that you get your truck sorted the way that you want.

 

[charliemeyer007]

They didn't want the job, that's why they bid so high with only a casual look at the damage. The rust will be lots worse than what you can see. Fixing it will be way more than just wire brush and sanding.

I have seen $50K rigs that were rebuilt inside and out including the running gear. I think they are crazy paying that much and more for a tractor - but its their money - far be it for me to tell them how to spend it.

 

[BBradford]

Whatever you choose to do, I wish you good luck, and hope that you get your truck sorted the way that you want.

Again, I appreciate the questions and the insight. This is just the kind of feedback I needed. If I do decide to go the Professional Restoration route, who would you recommend?

 

[BBradford]

They didn't want the job, that's why they bid so high with only a casual look at the damage.

I figured this might be the case.

 

[Mark Jennings]

$50k may not be unreasonable if it’s a frame off, a shop is performing and includes drive line rebuilds. For $50k you should get rebuilt engine, trans, T-case, clean and paint chassis….plus all of the bodywork to repair the rust and repaint an original color. Throw in brakes and steering plus electrical and your there….$50K.

In fact, some of your rust repair might be easier frame off. However, keep in mind you will not catch it all…..and 5, 6 years down the road, you may start seeing places you miss start to bubble through….albeit small scale….and easier to keep up with.

If you’re willing to remove the body from the frame, and do the drive line cleaning and rebuild, and have a shop do the bodywork, you’re still gonna be out $10k plus (probably closer to $20k) for the rust repair and paint…..depending on their labor hour rates.

Also keep in mind, the more you get into it, you will see more that needs fixing….and every fix is a dollar more spent.

 

[Old Nick]

Again, I appreciate the questions and the insight. This is just the kind of feedback I needed. If I do decide to go the Professional Restoration route, who would you recommend?

I have read tons of threads on the work that Kelly Saad does (don't know him, but know that he is highly respected for his restoration work). Trail Tailor also does a lot of restoration work (but I think that he/his shop do mostly 60 series rigs). Their work will be priced appropriately to the amount of work that your truck requires.

There are others who do great work here, but those two came to mind first. One thing to note... they book WAY out. So it might take a year+ to get your truck under the knife.

 

[Pitter Patter]

My advice is be careful. I hired a local guy on a referral from someone I trusted to do my bodywork and after throwing $10k at him and having total crap results, I took it back and have been doing it myself. Don’t go the discount route. Either do it yourself or pay the big $$$$ to have it done at a legit shop that’s been around for a long time and has a backlog of work because they are so good.

What everyone says is true; the rust will be far more extensive than it looks. It also won’t always make sense. My drivers seatbelt attachment was rusted all the way through but the passenger side was fine. Lots of weird surprises like that will pop up and there isn’t always a patch panel to assist with the restoration. You have to be willing to fabricate and take your time. I don’t think $50k is too much for a full body rust remediation and repaint IMO.

 

[Grayscale]

Start with the cowl seam, right by the windshield. Seal it up so it doesn't get worse there. Clean the inside of the door, and make certain that the doors drain freely. Install fresh weatherstrip in places that need it.

I'd care only about the rear body mounts (aka 'rear sil') - the truck needs to be solid from a structural standpoint. Original hardware for the spare tire carrier, doors, could be swapped for new hardware.

I'd clean it-up, soap, body-wax, and corrosion-inhibiting-oil. Paint the parts that need painting. Let someone else make a showroom truck, bling, candy-paint, leather interiors, etc. Keep it rugged and kind to the owner. Toyota didn't grind their body welds at the rear sil, but, typically, every restoration uses a sander and body filler, hiding factory spot welds, turning a pragmatic machine into a sculpture, as it is remanufactured / restored with different processes, materials, technologies. Keep it in the sprit of the original truck is my incination. However, I like what @Roastchestnuts did with his 40, as an example of spliced-in rust repairs; a sensible approach to body repairs in my mind.

 

[BBradford]

For $50k you should get rebuilt engine, trans, T-case, clean and paint chassis….plus all of the bodywork to repair the rust and repaint an original color. Throw in brakes and steering plus electrical and your there….$50K.

This is helpful to know. Thanks

 

[BBradford]

I have read tons of threads on the work that Kelly Saad does (don't know him, but know that he is highly respected for his restoration work). Trail Tailor also does a lot of restoration work (but I think that he/his shop do mostly 60 series rigs). Their work will be priced appropriately to the amount of work that your truck requires.

There are others who do great work here, but those two came to mind first. One thing to note... they book WAY out. So it might take a year+ to get your truck under the knife.

These aren't names that I've come across previously. I'll definitely look them up.

 

[Old Nick]

These aren't names that I've come across previously. I'll definitely look them up.

Just pop them in the search function, and search "everywhere". You'll get tons of hits.

 

[RevISK]

Buy a gallon of Corrosion X and spray as that stuff down, get over the smell, and enjoy it.