Rust repair education (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Apr 24, 2025
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Location
Eastern WA
I'm sure the go to answer is Zero rust, or close to zero. But if one can't afford a pristine, restored FJ60, what rust would be worrisome? I don't have deep pockets, but I've been wanting either a 60 or 70 series vehicle to enjoy as a casual driver. An FJ60 showed up near me (3.5hr away). It's priced at 14,500 as the owner knows rust areas will need repair. Is this one to just let pass by or worth a look? I understand rust repair can vary widely depending on how extensive it is. Obviously, if the rust is creating a structural issue with the frame, then that is a no go for me.

Thanks in advance.
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IMO frame rust is not a big worry as it's pretty easy to weld.

But the bodywork looks bad, what you see may be the tip of a very nasty iceberg.
 
What’s going on with the frame? That gnarly spot where it appears someone painted over rust and it’s coming back. Was it welded there? Frame rust would be more of a concern for me, fwiw.
You’ve probably read that the back C channel area is an important area to inspect for rust. Rear body fender and wheel well rust seems inevitable with the 60 series. There are kits available if you want to cut it out and weld in new metal. If the rust wasn’t too bad there I’d be inclined to dig out as much as possible and just live with it that way indefinitely. Just make sure it hasn’t spread too far into the cargo area.
There are likely to be multiple other issues to deal with besides rust when acquiring one of these old wagons, unless you get lucky.
 
It also depends on what your goals are, and where you live.

Do you want a perfect rust free shiny truck or are you going to take it offroading on trails, camping, utility etc. some rust is not the end of the world if you are actually going to use it for Land Cruiser activities, and you might live in a climate where it might take years to get worse. That wheel well might look exactly the same in five years in the southwest US.
 
Also on your own abilities/inclination. Are you prepared to get under the vehicle for a weekend and removed the surface rust/coating with a wire wheel and cover it in a wax treatment? Unless the frame is really ready to snap in half the surface rust isn't going to cause you any issues.

How about doing welding work yourself? It's easy to pick up a MIG these days, there is certainly a learning curve to repairing thin metal, but a proper rust repair of that vehicle will not be economic if outsourced.

But the state of the body would make me worry that the front cowl, roof, floor pan could be rusted through to the point where there is water in the vehicle which is really not nice.
 
My 62 in terms of the wheel arch, looked fantastic.

However when I pulled up the carpets I was surprised by a slightly rusted seat stiffener, which quickly turned into a LOT of hidden rust.

Even the ones that looked good will have rust creeping up in in all the places, I wouldn’t buy a 60 series without being able to peek under the carpet.

If you have the time and a mig welder, have at it.



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tap on the frame a bit with a hammer looks like some fresh paint trying to hide things.
 
Thanks all for the info! I really appreciate it as I have been trying to better learn about best way to assess and mitigate rust on older cars. I have no idea how to weld currently, so definitely a limitation for me. Definitely not looking for a shiny showroom vehicle, as I just can't afford that. I know all these older trucks will need some form of work or maintenance, I was just trying to gauge what that may look like. Also understanding that it's a graded approach to repairs too.
 
Thanks all for the info! I really appreciate it as I have been trying to better learn about best way to assess and mitigate rust on older cars. I have no idea how to weld currently, so definitely a limitation for me. Definitely not looking for a shiny showroom vehicle, as I just can't afford that. I know all these older trucks will need some form of work or maintenance, I was just trying to gauge what that may look like. Also understanding that it's a graded approach to repairs too.

My recommendation, especially since you are in a part of the USA that generally has Cruiser's in better shape, is get whatever deently running/driving 60 that is within your price range (INCLUDING cost of future reapirs, parts, maintinance, do not spend your entire budget on the purchase), drive it for a year, decide how much you like it, go it from there.

Since you are in WA you should have no problem finding a local Cruiserhead to help you out with inspecting a potential purchase in exchange for a few beers.
 
You can find better for less in WA. Buy one with as little rust as possible. You’d be better off spending more for a better one by the time you’re done.

Are you looking on craigslist, marketplace, classifieds here? Do you plan to/are you able to do any work yourself? What’s the end goal for it?

No affiliation but here’s one for $8k in WA. Couple little dents but doesn’t look bad from the pics.

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My recommendation, especially since you are in a part of the USA that generally has Cruiser's in better shape, is get whatever deently running/driving 60 that is within your price range (INCLUDING cost of future reapirs, parts, maintinance, do not spend your entire budget on the purchase), drive it for a year, decide how much you like it, go it from there.

Since you are in WA you should have no problem finding a local Cruiserhead to help you out with inspecting a potential purchase in exchange for a few beers.
👆This. If you are in E WA then chat with @Skreddy or @Spook50 - although Spook just lost his cruiser and likely will be busy dealing with that. Take your time and find one with the least rust. And as cruisermatt says, see if you still enjoy it after a year or so…
 
You can find better for less in WA. Buy one with as little rust as possible. You’d be better off spending more for a better one by the time you’re done.

Are you looking on craigslist, marketplace, classifieds here? Do you plan to/are you able to do any work yourself? What’s the end goal for it?

No affiliation but here’s one for $8k in WA. Couple little dents but doesn’t look bad from the pics.

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Dents are better than rust.
 
My point was I don't think that a bit of cosmetic rust here or there is really a huge deal. Especially for a new owner who maybe hasn't fully realized their goals/usage. I own four cruisers. All have rust. I drive them. A lot
 
👆This. If you are in E WA then chat with @Skreddy or @Spook50 - although Spook just lost his cruiser and likely will be busy dealing with that. Take your time and find one with the least rust. And as cruisermatt says, see if you still enjoy it after a year or so…
I'm definitely swamped, but trying to stay active in the community and can help as best I can.

I will say the support I've gotten from the Land Cruiser community (and seen for others who've gotten FAR worse than I did in a wreck) has been outstanding, and another reason I'm happy to be a part of it.
 
You can find better for less in WA. Buy one with as little rust as possible. You’d be better off spending more for a better one by the time you’re done.

Are you looking on craigslist, marketplace, classifieds here? Do you plan to/are you able to do any work yourself? What’s the end goal for it?

No affiliation but here’s one for $8k in WA. Couple little dents but doesn’t look bad from the pics.

View attachment 3905345
I have been browsing marketplace and the classifieds here to see what is nearby.

I'm limited as to what work I can do myself
As I just didn't have all the tools.

I'd say my end goal is to finally have my classic car to enjoy on the weekends with family. Its not intended to be my daily driver.

I have also planned to look at the HZJ77 I saw here on the classifieds, also in Seattle area. It seemed that a windshield replacement would be needed, but he has all the parts for it. Down the road it also sounded like front axle bearings and rear axle bearings would need replacement.
 
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@Skreddy for that LC you linked. The seats look like they've seen better days. In your opinion would dent repair and replacement seats would be manageable? I'm not sure what else may be needed on that rig, but I can inquire. Price is good.
 
I have been browsing marketplace and the classifieds here to see what is nearby.

I'm limited as to what work I can do myself
As I just didn't have all the tools.

I'd say my end goal is to finally have my classic car to enjoy on the weekends with family. Its not intended to be my daily driver.

I have also planned to look at the HZJ77 I saw here on the classifieds, also in Seattle area. It seemed that a windshield replacement would be needed, but he has all the parts for it. Down the road it also sounded like front axle bearings and rear axle bearings would need replacement.
It's cheaper to buy tools than to pay mechanic prices these days. Suit yourself but I would not choose a rare, RHD diesel as a classic cruiser.
New seat foam and covers is entirely manageable, although in that FB 60 Skreddy linked the seat damage looks minimal. As for its dents, I wouldn't bother trying to fix. The rear dent looks complicated and also could be rusty, so worthy of a closer look to see how bad it is.
 
@Skreddy for that LC you linked. The seats look like they've seen better days. In your opinion would dent repair and replacement seats would be manageable? I'm not sure what else may be needed on that rig, but I can inquire. Price is good.
Seats are easy. You could have those refoamed and recovered or swap to something from another vehicle altogether like lots of people here do. Those dents shouldn’t be too hard to repair either.
Like @cruisermatt said, a little rust isn’t bad, all 3 of mine have a little rust. I’d avoid big areas of bubbly rust or holes.
 
It's cheaper to buy tools than to pay mechanic prices these days. Suit yourself but I would not choose a rare, RHD diesel as a classic cruiser.
New seat foam and covers is entirely manageable, although in that FB 60 Skreddy linked the seat damage looks minimal. As for its dents, I wouldn't bother trying to fix. The rear dent looks complicated and also could be rusty, so worthy of a closer look to see how bad it is.
Thank you! I really appreciate the help. I've been trying to navigate the best decision for my situation. Trying to find the balance between a vehicle that doesn't cost a fortune and work needing to be done has been tricky.
 

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