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- #61
Nice tip! will definitely do that! Everytime I crawl under it I knock rust off so I figured it would not take much to blast it off. But to save media, I will definitely knock/scrap the flakey stuff off first!
Rust removal products~ what's your favorite/
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Nice tip! will definitely do that! Everytime I crawl under it I knock rust off so I figured it would not take much to blast it off. But to save media, I will definitely knock/scrap the flakey stuff off first!
leave the compressor inside and do the sandblasting outside the noise will all be from the compressor running and there is a problem with ventelation with enclosed areas when sandblasting, remember you only have one set of lungs.
Coolerman
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Small parts rust removal
Now for all those small parts of a de-rust job I use a four step process.
Step one: Degrease the part. I use kerosene in a home made parts cleaner.
Step two: (Optional) Electrolysis of the part to completely remove the loose rust, and neutralize/convert the remaining rust. Takes 8-72 hours depending on part. This will also remove any loose paint. Though optional this step involves little labor but saves a LOT of sandblasting time!
Step three: Sand cabinet blasting. This removes the remaining rust and paint and gives the part the roughness needed for good top coat adhesion. (The Harbor Freight small bench top cabinet with the double or single door on the side will hold valve covers, engine side covers, knuckles, e-brake drums, brake drums...)
Step four: Powder coat or primer/paint. I prefer powder coat as it's easy to do at home, requires little investment to start doing it. ($150 for good gun and start up powder) plus the powder is not toxic so you can spray it in the garage or basement.
(Do wear a dust mask) Just vacuum up the remaining dust.
Now for all those small parts of a de-rust job I use a four step process.
Step one: Degrease the part. I use kerosene in a home made parts cleaner.
Step two: (Optional) Electrolysis of the part to completely remove the loose rust, and neutralize/convert the remaining rust. Takes 8-72 hours depending on part. This will also remove any loose paint. Though optional this step involves little labor but saves a LOT of sandblasting time!
Step three: Sand cabinet blasting. This removes the remaining rust and paint and gives the part the roughness needed for good top coat adhesion. (The Harbor Freight small bench top cabinet with the double or single door on the side will hold valve covers, engine side covers, knuckles, e-brake drums, brake drums...)
Step four: Powder coat or primer/paint. I prefer powder coat as it's easy to do at home, requires little investment to start doing it. ($150 for good gun and start up powder) plus the powder is not toxic so you can spray it in the garage or basement.
(Do wear a dust mask) Just vacuum up the remaining dust.- Thread starter
- #64
awwww, the need to breath is over rated!
thanks again!
any advice on the media?walnut or the aluminum oxide?
thanks again!
any advice on the media?walnut or the aluminum oxide?
Coolerman
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awwww, the need to breath is over rated!
thanks again!
any advice on the media?walnut or the aluminum oxide?
Playground sand available at Lowe's for $2.39 a 40lb bag. Pre-screened, just pour straight into the pot or hopper. Won't harm your lawn or plants (though it will look bad until it rains... )
With sand you MUST wear a tight fitting mask that will filter out fine dust. Silicosis is nothing to laugh at. It's like Black Lung only white...
I blast outdoors only on days the wind is blowing towards the neighbor I don't like too much.
That way the wind blows most of the dust away from me and the project.Eye/skin protection is a must! The sand WILL get into every orifice you have and if the nozzle is misdirected it will create ones you don't!
you can also save the sand, put down a tarp under the area you are working, after you have finished one bag of sand gather the sand on the tarp and sift it though your wife's kitchen wire strainer and reuse one more time. The sifter will sift out all the large particles, ie rust.
It is a good Idea to sift the sand before use also. I use the sand from Lowes Building supply Quickcrete
brand in clear plastic bags, make sure you get bags that are dry and you will need to sift before use,contains a few pieces of rock usually in each bag. You will need to remove those before you blast or it will clog up your sand pipe and slow you down.
It is a good Idea to sift the sand before use also. I use the sand from Lowes Building supply Quickcrete
brand in clear plastic bags, make sure you get bags that are dry and you will need to sift before use,contains a few pieces of rock usually in each bag. You will need to remove those before you blast or it will clog up your sand pipe and slow you down.
- Thread starter
- #67
you answered a question I hadn't asked yet! I already have a 50lb bag of play sand for anothe project and was wondering if it was "fine" enough to use in the sand blaster.
I take note about the dust mask.
I guess since we have a vacant house next to us, i am lucky, just let the wind blow that way, unfortunately this time of year the wind is previlent coming from that direction instead of going that way!
I already have a 50lb bag of play sand for anothe project and was wondering if it was "fine" enough to use in the sand blaster.I take note about the dust mask.
I guess since we have a vacant house next to us, i am lucky, just let the wind blow that way, unfortunately this time of year the wind is previlent coming from that direction instead of going that way!
Coolerman
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You can use any sand/media that will fit through the smallest hole in your setup which is generally the nozzel size. I use 1/8".
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- #69
I need to look at the nozzle size on the blaster I bought. I would assume it is 1/8" but not certain.
So I could use sunflower shucks if I wanted to huh? as long as they were ground up.
hmmm, maybe found a use for recycled snuff! bah ha ha ha! ( that is just plan gross!)
So I could use sunflower shucks if I wanted to huh? as long as they were ground up.
hmmm, maybe found a use for recycled snuff! bah ha ha ha! ( that is just plan gross!)
I didn't care much for blasting with walnut shells. It was a little too slow for me. On the other hand, sand was great!
I am not sure with the rust you have that anything not as hard as sand or beads would do the trick.
You have some major rust going on there guy
You have some major rust going on there guy
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- #72
thanks! I have a 25 lb bag of walnuts and a 50lb bag worth of play sand so I can go either way right now. might as well start with the sand then! I was just concerned with it taking too much "good metal" with it coming from the gun in the hands of someone without experience.
Dang! Play sand works? I would have never thought it. I purchased 5 100 lb bags of sandblasting media. The 30 grit seems to work best. I have a couple bags of 12 grit that is a bit too course (but I have not tried it in the gravity feed gun).
I use a respirator... it is a good one and well worth the investment. I have my compressor in the garage and run my hose 50 feet to the back yard where the work is. I've not gotten any complaints from the neighbors at all.
I recently blasted my tag holder and treated it with phosphoric acid to kill any residual rust. I let the work sit until it dried and used soapy water to clean it up for painting. Man it looked great!... but, before I could dry it, you could see the rust getting started. I was amazed at how quickly it takes hold. I squirted it down with the acid and let it dry... this time I just wiped it down and then primed.
Does anyone have a better method? I don't mean to hijack, because you to will need this knowledge. Once the metal has been etched with phosphoric acid do you need to clean back down to the metal to ensure the paint adheres or will it still bond with the converted rust, metal, and phosphoric acid residue?
Bear- good thread.
I use a respirator... it is a good one and well worth the investment. I have my compressor in the garage and run my hose 50 feet to the back yard where the work is. I've not gotten any complaints from the neighbors at all.
I recently blasted my tag holder and treated it with phosphoric acid to kill any residual rust. I let the work sit until it dried and used soapy water to clean it up for painting. Man it looked great!... but, before I could dry it, you could see the rust getting started. I was amazed at how quickly it takes hold. I squirted it down with the acid and let it dry... this time I just wiped it down and then primed.
Does anyone have a better method? I don't mean to hijack, because you to will need this knowledge. Once the metal has been etched with phosphoric acid do you need to clean back down to the metal to ensure the paint adheres or will it still bond with the converted rust, metal, and phosphoric acid residue?
Bear- good thread.
- Thread starter
- #74
Yea it does look bad, but like I said before, the body panels are being replaced, so I am not worried much about the body. The frame is what I am concentrating on now, and a lot of the frame is actually rust free. but where there is rust, it is the thick crusty type. But I have probed all the heavy rust pockets and there is solid metal underneath. I just need to knock off the top layers.
- Thread starter
- #75
Hey! you ain't hijacking anything here! It's all good, and good info. Keep your questions coming! shared info is good info in my book!
regarding your question about needing to prime immediately after ectching it with the Phosphoric acid… I have "refreshed" other parts on on ther projects that I had to convert rust to a working surface. (the axle from my Tacoma) It was too large to dip obviously. I just wire wheeled it to bare matal. coated it with the Phosphoric acid. Let dry and then primed it using etching primer.
The axle sat that way for 3 years. When I finished adding the axle to my truck all I did was clean it with mineral spirits and painted it using Rustoleum hammerite paint. Today, two years since the install the ubolts hav rusted on the axle but the axle looks great. So Five years from beginning to current with only wire brushing, phosphoric acip wipe (no wash and rince down) and etching primer, sat and cure for three years, refresh primer with mineral spirits and paint, worked for me!
regarding your question about needing to prime immediately after ectching it with the Phosphoric acid… I have "refreshed" other parts on on ther projects that I had to convert rust to a working surface. (the axle from my Tacoma) It was too large to dip obviously. I just wire wheeled it to bare matal. coated it with the Phosphoric acid. Let dry and then primed it using etching primer.
The axle sat that way for 3 years. When I finished adding the axle to my truck all I did was clean it with mineral spirits and painted it using Rustoleum hammerite paint. Today, two years since the install the ubolts hav rusted on the axle but the axle looks great. So Five years from beginning to current with only wire brushing, phosphoric acip wipe (no wash and rince down) and etching primer, sat and cure for three years, refresh primer with mineral spirits and paint, worked for me!
Get all that rust off and down to bare metal, you might consider Rhino Lining everything. 
Did I use the wrong type of gun?
I tried do-it-yourself sandblasting and was bitterly disappointed. I found the moisture created in the nozzle (from the compressed air) kept causing the gun to clog with sand. And even when the gun did manage to fire sand, the sand didn't seem to have the impact force necessary to strip the paint properly. (The sand sure ended up getting inside my ears and everywhere else though.) In the end I gave the gun to a charity junk shop to resell.
I seem to remember my air compressor is rated at 12.5 cfm. (It is certainly good enough for spraypainting.)
I used fine pebbly-type sand from the beach, after washing it with fresh water, drying it in the oven, and sifting it. (So I thought the sand would have been OK.)
Perhaps my cheap gun was the problem? It had a long rubber suction tube that you stuck in your sand. (Its lack of ability to suck-up sand did seem to be a big part of the problem.)
Can someone post a photo of the type of gun I should have used?
I tried do-it-yourself sandblasting and was bitterly disappointed. I found the moisture created in the nozzle (from the compressed air) kept causing the gun to clog with sand. And even when the gun did manage to fire sand, the sand didn't seem to have the impact force necessary to strip the paint properly. (The sand sure ended up getting inside my ears and everywhere else though.) In the end I gave the gun to a charity junk shop to resell.
I seem to remember my air compressor is rated at 12.5 cfm. (It is certainly good enough for spraypainting.)
I used fine pebbly-type sand from the beach, after washing it with fresh water, drying it in the oven, and sifting it. (So I thought the sand would have been OK.)
Perhaps my cheap gun was the problem? It had a long rubber suction tube that you stuck in your sand. (Its lack of ability to suck-up sand did seem to be a big part of the problem.)
Can someone post a photo of the type of gun I should have used?
i applied rust bullet (automotive silver) on the roof of my 1949 willys wagon. it was really rusty. even thought they say you don't need to clean off the rust, i d/a sanded with 200 grit....blew it off....clean with decreaser......applied the 2 recommended coats.
it turned out great.
with rust bullet, you don't need to top coat if you don't want to.
por 15 is uv sensitive....can't use where it's would be exposed to sunlight without top coating.
good luck!
it turned out great.
with rust bullet, you don't need to top coat if you don't want to.
por 15 is uv sensitive....can't use where it's would be exposed to sunlight without top coating.
good luck!
lostmarbles- Sounds like you were using a siphon feed sandblaster. I'm with you... waste of time. I posted a link early on in this thread that is the harbor freight $15 USD gravity feed gun. It is maybe 30 to 50% better than what I was getting with my siphon feed.
Coolerman has the pot that harbor freight sales... maybe he would post up a pick of the gun.
Coolerman has the pot that harbor freight sales... maybe he would post up a pick of the gun.
Sand blast fully, then treat with Metal Ready, or similar acid etch, then coat with POR-15 or similar. I have LOTS of experience with POR-15 and I can tell you that it will permanently bond to everything but your truck if there is any oil/grease on it. I assume this is true with all paints...prep is everything. Sandblasting to bare metal is the best option. Shameless plug, I have quite of bit of POR-15 left of my old inventory (used to be a dealer for it) I'm selling it off at less than my cost because I don't want to have inventory and don't need it. POR-15 is a great product when used correctly, but Rust bullet may actually be more forgiving to apply, I dunno. Sandblast that frame! Did I say that already????
