Rust Question

[Coffeemanbob]

Hey Yall -
Long time lurker first time poster.

I’ve got this 05 LC and I’d like feedback on how bad this rust is? I adore this rig and want it to last another 5-10 years ideally, maybe longer if I can do work and keep it going.

I know this is a common question, I’d just really appreciate feedback on my rig.

Thanks so much

 

[2000UZJ]

It can definitely be cleaned up to last a lifetime, but you are at the tipping point. I can assume you had a major brake fluid leak at the MC at some point? Probably want to get that frame rail rust cleaned up and coated. Maybe install 4 matching shocks and get the exhaust pipe installed correctly?

 

[Coffeemanbob]

It can definitely be cleaned up to last a lifetime, but you are at the tipping point. I can assume you had a major brake fluid leak at the MC at some point? Probably want to get that frame rail rust cleaned up and coated. Maybe install 4 matching shocks and get the exhaust pipe installed correctly?

Hi there! The leak happened before my ownership. I’ve been trying to come up with a game plan to address everything, and I was torn on whether I should just move on or tackle it. I’m really leaning towards just doing what I can and keeping it as long as I can.

 

[2000UZJ]

Hi there! The leak happened before my ownership. I’ve been trying to come up with a game plan to address everything, and I was torn on whether I should just move on or tackle it. I’m really leaning towards just doing what I can and keeping it as long as I can.

I'd wire wheel and hit it with some paint, the longer you do nothing the deeper that rust eats into the frame.

 

[Coffeemanbob]

I'd wire wheel and hit it with some paint, the longer you do nothing the deeper that rust eats into the frame.

After the wire wheel, does it go Corroseal and then what kind of paint? This part I’m never clear on

 

[excessive]

you are at the point where you have to decide are you going to try to just stop the rust , or are you going to clean up / srape off / re-paint over whats already there. its all about how much time you are willing to put into it.

 

[whitec13]

Where I’m from, that is literally nothing. Knock down the loose. Spray it with fluid film every year or two inside and out. Should never get worse.
Or go balls out and scrape clean, Correseal, and paint.
I’ve done both on mine and still do so. Mine is way beyond your case.
But always manage the inside too, or you’re really just masking.

 

[delz05]

Best way to clean off that scale and surface rust.... Needle gun and then grind (80 grit) all exposed areas, then Rust Kill or brush on acid wash. Prime with a rust reformer primer and paint with a semi-gloss black. To insure there will be very little rust return, take the extra steps to blow out the inner frame of all debris after using the needle gun. Spray Woolwax inside the frame (flows better than Fluid Film, lasts longer) nand either coat the exterior frame with Woolwax or spray on Rusfree coating.

It does not look like you have any rot to take care of, but you will want to check the crossmember behind the gas tank that runs above the spare tire (not the spare carrier mamber) where it meets the left side of the frame (above left rear wheel). Seems to be the first area to rot through. Also the rear bumper cross member that ties the left and right rear frame rails together (best checked after removing the rear bumper cover and dropping the spare tire). Another very common area for rot to creep in is the lower radiator support, easily checked by dropping the skid plates.

Attached a few pictures of what my shop repairs on a daily/weekly basis. The first picture shows the area I refer to above the left rear wheel... you want to check both sides of that cross member, where it attaches to the frame.

 

[Rednexus]

I'd suggest Woolwax or Fluid Film instead. Applied it on my '07 GX470 in 2021 and it stopped the rust cold in it's tracks.

^2021 post-pressure wash / pre 1st application

^2024 post-pressure wash

^2024 post-2nd application

 

[Live to Ski]

Best way to clean off that scale and surface rust.... Needle gun and then grind (80 grit) all exposed areas, then Rust Kill or brush on acid wash. Prime with a rust reformer primer and paint with a semi-gloss black. To insure there will be very little rust return, take the extra steps to blow out the inner frame of all debris after using the needle gun. Spray Woolwax inside the frame (flows better than Fluid Film, lasts longer) nand either coat the exterior frame with Woolwax or spray on Rusfree coating.

It does not look like you have any rot to take care of, but you will want to check the crossmember behind the gas tank that runs above the spare tire (not the spare carrier mamber) where it meets the left side of the frame (above left rear wheel). Seems to be the first area to rot through. Also the rear bumper cross member that ties the left and right rear frame rails together (best checked after removing the rear bumper cover and dropping the spare tire). Another very common area for rot to creep in is the lower radiator support, easily checked by dropping the skid plates.

Attached a few pictures of what my shop repairs on a daily/weekly basis. The first picture shows the area I refer to above the left rear wheel... you want to check both sides of that cross member, where it attaches to the frame.

View attachment 3615907

View attachment 3615908

View attachment 3615909

View attachment 3615910

brings back nightmares....mid 70's to mid 80's Rhode Island/vermont (winter road salt)

 

[delz05]

brings back nightmares....mid 70's to mid 80's Rhode Island/vermont (winter road salt)

I would gladly take that salt now, as opposed to the adverse chemicals they are using today! You can wash away the salt... not so much with the road kill chemicals... they eat everything! Frames, brake parts, wires, exhaust....

 

[Live to Ski]

I would gladly take that salt now, as opposed to the adverse chemicals they are using today! You can wash away the salt... not so much with the road kill chemicals... they eat everything! Frames, brake parts, wires, exhaust....

what road kill chemicals do you speaketh?

 

[SteveH]

Some states add beet juice to calcium chloride (or magnesium chloride) to help the product stick to the roads. It sticks well to your truck, too.

As a kid in Michigan, my father referred to the salt and brine spread on the roads as 'fender solvent'....

 

[rexlap]

Best way to clean off that scale and surface rust.... Needle gun and then grind (80 grit) all exposed areas, then Rust Kill or brush on acid wash. Prime with a rust reformer primer and paint with a semi-gloss black. To insure there will be very little rust return, take the extra steps to blow out the inner frame of all debris after using the needle gun. Spray Woolwax inside the frame (flows better than Fluid Film, lasts longer) nand either coat the exterior frame with Woolwax or spray on Rusfree coating.

It does not look like you have any rot to take care of, but you will want to check the crossmember behind the gas tank that runs above the spare tire (not the spare carrier mamber) where it meets the left side of the frame (above left rear wheel). Seems to be the first area to rot through. Also the rear bumper cross member that ties the left and right rear frame rails together (best checked after removing the rear bumper cover and dropping the spare tire). Another very common area for rot to creep in is the lower radiator support, easily checked by dropping the skid plates.

Attached a few pictures of what my shop repairs on a daily/weekly basis. The first picture shows the area I refer to above the left rear wheel... you want to check both sides of that cross member, where it attaches to the frame.

View attachment 3615907

View attachment 3615908

View attachment 3615909

View attachment 3615910

What is the repair process for the rear crossmember? Looked and realized I have some rot on the left side.