Windshield Rust - General Questions (2004 LX) (1 Viewer)

[JlinLX]

After lots of time with the wire wheel along with scraping and chipping with a screwdriver, I still wasn't able to get to good metal under the heavily rusted spots:

Hopefully the POR 15 will keep it contained but time will tell.

After degreasing and using the POR 15 metal prep:

Then three coats of POR 15 with about 6-8 hours between coats due to the low humidity over the weekend:

The POR 15 didn't stick very well in a couple places where metal overlaps so I sanded these areas back and coated another 3-4 times:

Then I scuffed and painted the roofline with two coats some cheap satin Rustoleum to protect the POR 15 from UV and to blend better with the rubber moulding. This gave me a chance to visually clean up the POR 15 paint line since it bled through/under the masking tape in a few places.

 

[JlinLX]

The final paint line on the roof:

I also used the Rustoleum on the inside vertical walls of the rain gutters where the moulding leaves it exposed. This will probably need to be touched up relatively frequently but it's all very accessible.
At this point, I did a test fit with the oversized Toyota rivets (PN 9026905034) that I had ordered from Partsouq and they were just barely too big for most of the holes. I used a round chainsaw file to expand the holes in the 'A' pillar and the aluminum side mouldings until the rivets would fit. Then three more coats of POR 15 in the body holes.
After that dried it was back to the glass shop:

Then, back at home, installing the side aluminum moulding;

And it is finally all back together!

Even if this isn't a forever solution due to the black rust that I wasn't able to remove, I'm very glad that I bought myself some time with this fix. After looking back at the original photos, I'd guess that I would have had, at most, one more year of a leak free windshield with the state of the rust. Overall this was a lot more work/time than I was originally planning, but I'm pretty happy with the result (assuming that I don't have any leaks).

If I were to do it over again (with better planning) I would definitely use the low-profile riv nuts that @HoustonFj80 suggested. I also would have used Ospho (like @AARONTLC suggested) or another more aggressive rust treatment rather than just the POR 15 metal prep liquid.

 

[AARONTLC]

The final paint line on the roof: View attachment 3869788
I also used the Rustoleum on the inside vertical walls of the rain gutters where the moulding leaves it exposed. This will probably need to be touched up relatively frequently but it's all very accessible.
At this point, I did a test fit with the oversized Toyota rivets (PN 9026905034) that I had ordered from Partsouq and they were just barely too big for most of the holes. I used a round chainsaw file to expand the holes in the 'A' pillar and the aluminum side mouldings until the rivets would fit. Then three more coats of POR 15 in the body holes.
After that dried it was back to the glass shop:
View attachment 3869791

Then, back at home, installing the side aluminum moulding;
View attachment 3869792View attachment 3869793

And it is finally all back together!
View attachment 3869794

Even if this isn't a forever solution due to the black rust that I wasn't able to remove, I'm very glad that I bought myself some time with this fix. After looking back at the original photos, I'd guess that I would have had, at most, one more year of a leak free windshield with the state of the rust. Overall this was a lot more work/time than I was originally planning, but I'm pretty happy with the result (assuming that I don't have any leaks).

If I were to do it over again (with better planning) I would definitely use the low-profile riv nuts that @HoustonFj80 suggested. I also would have used Ospho (like @AARONTLC suggested) or another more aggressive rust treatment rather than just the POR 15 metal prep liquid.

Good job! It is a lot of work. You are going to be very happy with your windshield.

 

[Tentsontop]

Man, those pics of you driving with no windshield made me laugh. Hopefully, your fix will keep that rust at bay for a good long while. I was under the impression rust in that area is coming from moisture under the sheet metal from a leaky sunroof or whatever. Fingers crossed all your work pays off!

 

[AARONTLC]

Man, those pics of you driving with no windshield made me laugh. Hopefully, your fix will keep that rust at bay for a good long while. I was under the impression rust in that area is coming from moisture under the sheet metal from a leaky sunroof or whatever. Fingers crossed all your work pays off!

I am understanding that the rust we see along the edges of our windshields, are due to previous installations chipping the paint down to bare metal and water then getting to interact with bare steel causing blisters.

 

[2001LC]

The final paint line on the roof: View attachment 3869788
I also used the Rustoleum on the inside vertical walls of the rain gutters where the moulding leaves it exposed. This will probably need to be touched up relatively frequently but it's all very accessible.
At this point, I did a test fit with the oversized Toyota rivets (PN 9026905034) that I had ordered from Partsouq and they were just barely too big for most of the holes. I used a round chainsaw file to expand the holes in the 'A' pillar and the aluminum side mouldings until the rivets would fit. Then three more coats of POR 15 in the body holes.
After that dried it was back to the glass shop:
View attachment 3869791

Then, back at home, installing the side aluminum moulding;
View attachment 3869792View attachment 3869793

And it is finally all back together!
View attachment 3869794

Even if this isn't a forever solution due to the black rust that I wasn't able to remove, I'm very glad that I bought myself some time with this fix. After looking back at the original photos, I'd guess that I would have had, at most, one more year of a leak free windshield with the state of the rust. Overall this was a lot more work/time than I was originally planning, but I'm pretty happy with the result (assuming that I don't have any leaks).

If I were to do it over again (with better planning) I would definitely use the low-profile riv nuts that @HoustonFj80 suggested. I also would have used Ospho (like @AARONTLC suggested) or another more aggressive rust treatment rather than just the POR 15 metal prep liquid.

Good job.

I know, what a mess job it is. Getting down to metal.

BTW: POR-15 has a UV stable paint now. Top Coat (TC). Not as tough as POR-15 rust, but can be painted over to UV protect. It too, is a direct to metal paint.
To save time. We can paint over POR-15 rust or TC. Before it cures, without sanding. Just like when painting on coats of POR-15. Which is done as soon as dry enough, finger drag across with resistance. The Top Coat is very tough. Much tougher than typically automotive paint in spray cans. I've been using the POR-Top Coat spray cans on parts like knuckles, brake dust shields, crossmembers, bumper supports, etc. I use it or epoxy paint.
In my derusting tank, prior to Evapo-rust hot bath.

Windshield rust:

This always an issue to be on the lookout for, when factory windshield has been replaced.

The installers, nick the paint and molding retains the moisture. If they also glued in the side molding, water drainages is often dammed.

When I see any issue with molding, anything concerning. Like screws, open hole, molding bent, sides or upper portion in rain gutter glue down or not lying flat. I remove the side molding and file the holes with bytul, until I can get to it. By removing the molding, the rusting will slow. But be warned. Very often if upper molding along roof line removed. We create a leak.

I'm working on a windshield now. It actually had a Lexus windshield, with good molding and factory type rivets. But was not factory installed. In removing side molding. I found what at first appeared to be an exceptional install. But was not. Although one thing interesting, was a dab of clear silicone on rivet hole area. Seems to have seal area well. The rivets where holding new molding up tight to "A" pillar as they should. The silicone did a good job of protecting, bare metal in rivet holes, sealing out moisture.

Once I had this molding off. I studied the area, for any signs of rust. Which I found some, albeit minor.
Last installer, did coat with something. Not sure what. It was a shinny black and thick like a black ploy, but I don't think it was.

Seeing any rust, under black stuff. I could not trust what may be under all of it. So I strip down to metal.

Only one small area on each "A" pillar, had any pitting. No holes and above area hidden by molding. 20 minutes acid bath on the two pit areas, than 20 more minutes on all area to be paints. I used POR-15 silver to paint.
I pulled off tape while wet, just after third coat. Today I'll work the holes.

 

[juicemode]

Can anyone recommend primers “M” and “G” per the FSM. And maybe good urethane to use? And finally an adhesive for the top moulding, I can’t find the one referenced in the FSM.

Is there adhesive tape on the dams? Mine have yet to arrive.

Thanks

 

[AARONTLC]

Can anyone recommend primers “M” and “G” per the FSM. And maybe good urethane to use? And finally an adhesive for the top moulding, I can’t find the one referenced in the FSM.

Is there adhesive tape on the dams? Mine have yet to arrive.

Thanks

Yes, dams have adhesive.

 

[Rhetoric]

Very nice work! Nice to see folks put in the work to keep these rigs in good shape.

DOT563 looks like Shenzhen CSG Auto Glass. Curious if you notice any "wave" in the glass closer to the passenger A-pillar. My Fuyao glass had it, but my AGC Lexus glass does not.

 

[offoradjunkie]

Good work! There is a rust pimple just above my windshield on the roof and Im not sure how it got there.

 

[juicemode]

Got the glass removed. Not a dam or spacer in sight just a 1” wide bead of urethane all around. Now the restoration begins, fingers crossed for a good outcome.

 

[AARONTLC]

View attachment 3872638View attachment 3872639View attachment 3872640

Got the glass removed. Not a dam or spacer in sight just a 1” wide bead of urethane all around. Now the restoration begins, fingers crossed for a good outcome.

Little crusty. Let’s see what it looks like when you get the rust removed. You will probably need a little welding and body work done but we will see. Good luck and hang in there.

 

[2001LC]

View attachment 3872638View attachment 3872639View attachment 3872640

Got the glass removed. Not a dam or spacer in sight just a 1” wide bead of urethane all around. Now the restoration begins, fingers crossed for a good outcome.

Damm! That is what I worked, to protect against above.

I have extra unopened can of POR-15 silver. Let me know if you need it. Silver has small practical's to help fill. Same as I used, on above windshield body seat area. Bought it for, a rear quarter tip rust issue I fixed. That had, fist size hole, after I cut out rust. I used POR-metal prep, once metal worked and I sand a feather edge into paint for adhesion.

I used fiberglass mats & coth with the POR-15 silver, to build hole patch. Rather than fiberglass resin. I also used POR-15 epoxy putty, to create leading edge. Very cool stuff. I've extra POR epoxy putty, also.

I didn't put a finish on area, since hidden. But it came out very nice. Should last.

Created weep holes and dilled new drain plug hole.

POR-15 Epoxy putty, very easy to work with and shape. Really hardens, very well. Drill, file, grind, sand, paint. Cool two part stuff, just knead together to activate.

Here's the windshield rivet holes, after POR-15 prep and painting with POR-sliver using a QuikTrip.

New glass seems distortion free.

 

[juicemode]

Thanks for the encouragement guys. I haven’t seen one as bad a mine. With the $7k purchase price I knew it was a gamble. I have really grown to like the car though and hope I can come out on the other side of this one. Once I get the rust removed I’ll need to decide if I can handle the restoration. Living in Durango is awesome but not great for getting professional help with things like this. My local body shop told me they would not touch it.

 

[AARONTLC]

Thanks for the encouragement guys. I haven’t seen one as bad a mine. With the $7k purchase price I knew it was a gamble. I have really grown to like the car though and hope I can come out on the other side of this one. Once I get the rust removed I’ll need to decide if I can handle the restoration. Living in Durango is awesome but not great for getting professional help with things like this. My local body shop told me they would not touch it.

WTF? That is body work. What makes it difficult? I don’t understand that at all! Ugh!

 

[JlinLX]

We've been getting rain in Denver and I haven't found any leaks so I think I'm in the clear!

@Rhetoric - I haven't noticed any distortion in the glass.
@juicemode - Hang in there! hopefully it isn't as bad as it looks. Keep us updated, I'm really curious to see how the metal looks once it's cleaned up.

 

[2001LC]

Thanks for the encouragement guys. I haven’t seen one as bad a mine. With the $7k purchase price I knew it was a gamble. I have really grown to like the car though and hope I can come out on the other side of this one. Once I get the rust removed I’ll need to decide if I can handle the restoration. Living in Durango is awesome but not great for getting professional help with things like this. My local body shop told me they would not touch it.

I've heard of a guy north of you, in Grand Junction. The Rising Sun 4WH club in Denver, calls him: The Rust doctor. Apparently, he specializes in Toyota Land Cruisers.

 

[Tentsontop]

We've been getting rain in Denver and I haven't found any leaks so I think I'm in the clear!
View attachment 3874032

@Rhetoric - I haven't noticed any distortion in the glass.
@juicemode - Hang in there! hopefully it isn't as bad as it looks. Keep us updated, I'm really curious to see how the metal looks once it's cleaned up.

Nice.

 

[juicemode]

15min with the baby wire wheel on the die grinder and holes like Swiss cheese. Upper horizontal and both left and right vertical. sad day. Fingers crossed the guys in Grand Junction will be able to help.

 

[juicemode]

Has anyone been down the road of cutting out rusted metal and welding in new clean metal in areas around the windshield frame? I have a ballpark estimate from a shop that will do this for me but I have no idea if the price is in line or not.