The final paint line on the roof:
View attachment 3869788
I also used the Rustoleum on the inside vertical walls of the rain gutters where the moulding leaves it exposed. This will probably need to be touched up relatively frequently but it's all very accessible.
At this point, I did a test fit with the oversized Toyota rivets (PN 9026905034) that I had ordered from Partsouq and they were just barely too big for most of the holes. I used a round chainsaw file to expand the holes in the 'A' pillar and the aluminum side mouldings until the rivets would fit. Then three more coats of POR 15 in the body holes.
After that dried it was back to the glass shop:
View attachment 3869791
Then, back at home, installing the side aluminum moulding;
View attachment 3869792View attachment 3869793
And it is finally all back together!
View attachment 3869794
Even if this isn't a forever solution due to the black rust that I wasn't able to remove, I'm very glad that I bought myself some time with this fix. After looking back at the original photos, I'd guess that I would have had, at most, one more year of a leak free windshield with the state of the rust. Overall this was a lot more work/time than I was originally planning, but I'm pretty happy with the result (assuming that I don't have any leaks).
If I were to do it over again (with better planning) I would definitely use the low-profile riv nuts that
@HoustonFj80 suggested. I also would have used Ospho (like
@AARONTLC suggested) or another more aggressive rust treatment rather than just the POR 15 metal prep liquid.
Good job.
I know, what a mess job it is. Getting down to metal.
BTW: POR-15 has a UV stable paint now. Top Coat (TC). Not as tough as POR-15 rust, but can be painted over to UV protect. It too, is a direct to metal paint.
To save time. We can paint over POR-15 rust or TC. Before it cures, without sanding. Just like when painting on coats of POR-15. Which is done as soon as dry enough, finger drag across with resistance. The Top Coat is very tough. Much tougher than typically automotive paint in spray cans. I've been using the POR-Top Coat spray cans on parts like knuckles, brake dust shields, crossmembers, bumper supports, etc. I use it or epoxy paint.
In my derusting tank, prior to Evapo-rust hot bath.
Windshield rust:
This always an issue to be on the lookout for, when factory windshield has been replaced.
The installers, nick the paint and molding retains the moisture. If they also glued in the side molding, water drainages is often dammed.
When I see any issue with molding, anything concerning. Like screws, open hole, molding bent, sides or upper portion in rain gutter glue down or not lying flat. I remove the side molding and file the holes with bytul, until I can get to it. By removing the molding, the rusting will slow. But be warned. Very often if upper molding along roof line removed. We create a leak.
I'm working on a windshield now. It actually had a Lexus windshield, with good molding and factory type rivets. But was not factory installed. In removing side molding. I found what at first appeared to be an exceptional install. But was not. Although one thing interesting, was a dab of clear silicone on rivet hole area. Seems to have seal area well. The rivets where holding new molding up tight to "A" pillar as they should. The silicone did a good job of protecting, bare metal in rivet holes, sealing out moisture.
Once I had this molding off. I studied the area, for any signs of rust. Which I found some, albeit minor.
Last installer, did coat with something. Not sure what. It was a shinny black and thick like a black ploy, but I don't think it was.
Seeing any rust, under black stuff. I could not trust what may be under all of it. So I strip down to metal.
Only one small area on each "A" pillar, had any pitting. No holes and above area hidden by molding. 20 minutes acid bath on the two pit areas, than 20 more minutes on all area to be paints. I used POR-15 silver to paint.
I pulled off tape while wet, just after third coat. Today I'll work the holes.
sad day. Fingers crossed the guys in Grand Junction will be able to help.
