RUST-OLEUM Paint Too Soft?

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May 6, 2004
In my first attempt at DIY painting I have run into a snag. I want to repaint all of the grey parts on my 76 FJ40. I started on 1 slider to test the following:

Sand to bare metal wherever possible
Clean with mineral spirits
Prime with Eastwood Rust Encapsulator rattle can (3 hours dry time)
Paint with RUST-OLEUM Gloss Protective Enamel rattle can (48 hours dry time)

I use the slider to get up into the cab as the truck is pretty tall and the paint is scratching off. Where did I go wrong? Wrong paint? Not enough dry time? Not enough coats?

Any advice is appreciated.




I am Painting my 60 with Rusto - and as far as I can tell, Rustoleum does not like to stick to primer. I have had only 2 tiny chips in my paint but they both happened on the fender that i decided to use primer on. No more primer for me.

I am trying the roller method as described in the now famous MOPAR thread. That guy didn't use primer either.

Just my .02 man.
I found the same thing: Areas I used self-etching primer, the paint would easily scratch, leaving primer. Where it was directly on the metal, it was much tougher.... And I was using rusto, too.
Thanks for the feedback. The parts I'm going to paint are a bit rusty (roll cage, bullbar). After I sand or blast off as much of the rust as I can what should I do to treat the rust that remains? I've seen a lot of reference to phosphoric acid based rust converters in this forum. Should I use that as a prep before painting with RUST-OLEUM? Or would 2 or 3 coats of RUST-OLEUM do the job by itself after the metal is as clean as I can get it?

My goal here is to end up with a coating that stands up to use and will last a few years.

Thanks again for the help.
well, you have dirt or even stones on your soles, it's gonna be scratched pretty much no matter what you paint or even PC it with...

but yes, it'd be better if it didn't peel off...
after you primer, sand it down a bit w/ fine grit like 600 to knock off the overspray and hit it with Bulldog adhesion promoter than spraypaint it.
it's never going to be as good as PC but that's teh best I can think of
your 40 looks great!
A buddy of mine works at a body shop. He told me that (in this situation) you don't want your primer to dry before you spray it with color. Wait for the primer to get "tacky" and then spray your color. That way, the paint and the primer "bond" together to make a much more durable surface.

Good luck! :cheers:
Off the top o my noggin, I'd be thinking about paint incompatibility issues, and just how thick the Eastwood RE went on. I've not ever used it, but if'n it has similar characteristics to Zerorust, that stuff doesn't like some top coats, and also can have very prolonged dry times at heavy coats.
Remember, the Rust- O adhesion to the base metal depends entirely on the RE underneath.
Thanks to everyone for their help. I did both of the sliders this morning and they came out great. Time will tell if I did a good job or not but they look awesome!

I took FF LC FREAK's advice and painted the topcoat when the primer had "flashed" after about 20 minutes. This method is also mentioned here: LINK.

e9999 inspired me to rethink the requirement that the paint be hard enough to step on regularly so I ordered 2 inch wide traction tape to protect the area where I step to get into the vehicle. It should arrive in a few days.

My process was:

Sand to bare metal wherever possible
Clean with mineral spirits
Clean with a clean dry cloth
Prime with Eastwood Rust Encapsulator rattle can (20 minutes dry time)
Paint with RUST-OLEUM Gloss Protective Enamel rattle can

Now pics!
Down to metal









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