Rust conversion coatings? Frame maintenance... (1 Viewer)

[CharlieS]

Having spent a bunch of time under my rig doing modifications in the last few months, I've been up close and personal with lots of rust. I'd like to do some maintenance and clean it up a bit.

In the past I was under the impression that POR-15 was a good way to go, but have since been told by folks here that it isn't a great solution.

So I'm thinking that maybe a rust conversion product might be a decent approach.

I've heard of several rust brands - Corroseal, Mar-Hyde, Ospho, Vactan, etc. I don't have any way to differentiate between them, so thought I'd ask around her on 'mud.

Do any of you have preferred products?

Any tips and tricks, or techniques that you'd be willing to recommend?

From what I can tell, most people top coat them with paint. Do you have any product recommendations?

 

[ACACG8]

How bad is the rust?

 

[CharlieS]

Here is a representative snapshot that I have on my phone from a recent suspension job:

 

[Cruisin911]

POR-15 is fine. Do the whole process though. Wire brush it, use the degreaser, the metal prep, and then the POR-15. Ive used it successfully for years.

Other options are a simple naval jelly and standard repaint.

Either way can be successful if completed correctly.

 

[Gus]

I'll second Cruisin911, the POR products work great when they are used for the entire process/ as a system.
In general, a very thorough degrease/cleaning followed by a wire brush/wire wheel to remove the rust scale, then a rust converter (I've had success with Ospho for years), which is then top coated with a good automotive primer then paint. Being meticulous about prep pays off.

 

[Supra88]

I will never use por-15 on a rusty vehicle again. I used it on my 100 and in many places it trapped moisture and accelerated the oxidation process. I probably put 40 hours into the prep work following all of their instructions. It looked great initially then it started to flake. In hindsight I wouldn't ground off the rust, hit it with some cheap paint and soak it in your favorite rust inhibitors. Plus it's a nasty isocyanate. Make sure you use a respirator if you do use it.

 

[KLF]

I will never use por-15 on a rusty vehicle again. I used it on my 100 and in many places it trapped moisture and accelerated the oxidation process.

Totally AGREE. Unless you are sandblasting back to fresh metal, it's just gonna go bad, and it did for me. The stuff is just too expensive, and hard to work with. I threw away more than I put on, due to it getting hard in the can. Never again.

Power wash and wire brush what you can reach, then paint with Rustoleum Satin Black. Then a nice multi-coating of some sort of preventative, like NHOU: Home | NH Oil Undercoating

 

[grinchy]

Power wash and wire brush what you can reach, then paint with Rustoleum Satin Black. Then a nice multi-coating of some sort of preventative, like NHOU: Home | NH Oil Undercoating

Would you etch or go straight to the enamel?

 

[tincan45]

While I've never used it on a vehicle, I've used zero-rust on on a trailer that I leave in the back of my property and I'm always amazed how rust free the treated areas are. Even after several years exposed to the elements.

Zero Rust Products

Lowest Online Price | Zero Rust Paint

www.zero-rust.com

 

[eatSleepWoof]

I used Rust Converter Ultra last autumn.

My rust fight starts with post 59 in my build thread.

 

[Angelo1]

Pictures of the rust would help. If it’s flakey and thic

Here is a representative snapshot that I have on my phone from a recent suspension job:

View attachment 2306999

Love the Kings though. I can’t wait to put those on next fall. The blue will look great on my blue 200

 

[codename607]

I've used fluid film with good success but you need to keep applying it every year.

Check this video out for some other options.

 

[CharlieS]

Thanks, I may use fluid film or Woolwax after I do some rust conversion and painting, but I want to do some remediation first.