- Thread starter
- #41
I do have a circuit breaker on that same circuit right by the Bussman, but a frontal collision is worth thinking about. Good point! I'll see where I can mount another circuit breaker closer to the battery.
Builds eatSleepWoof's '14 LX
- Thread starter eatSleepWoof
- Start date
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I do have a circuit breaker on that same circuit right by the Bussman, but a frontal collision is worth thinking about. Good point! I'll see where I can mount another circuit breaker closer to the battery.
- Thread starter
- #42
Installed the RedArc Elite trailer brake controller last night. Didn't have any switch blanks, nor the RedArc switch replacement, so I opted to mount right through the panel to the right of the steering column:
Minor trimming was required on the back of the panel:
Fits & works great.
Also spontaneously decided to mount my ARB2000 awning. I'm not too concerned about the OEM rack, and would ideally like to replace it down the line (either with the LC rack or a RhinoRack platform), so I went ahead and drilled right through it to secure the ARB mounting brackets. Since there are horizontal surfaces of varying heights, I added a thin strip of rubber under the main part of the bracket, and some thick, rubber washers under another part, to try to keep things both level~ish and minimize any damage from over-tightening the bolts.
Very solid. In hindsight, I should have considered using my RhinoRack awning brackets and flipping them upside down so that the awning sits lower, at essentially rack height. Oh well.
Minor trimming was required on the back of the panel:
Fits & works great.
Also spontaneously decided to mount my ARB2000 awning. I'm not too concerned about the OEM rack, and would ideally like to replace it down the line (either with the LC rack or a RhinoRack platform), so I went ahead and drilled right through it to secure the ARB mounting brackets. Since there are horizontal surfaces of varying heights, I added a thin strip of rubber under the main part of the bracket, and some thick, rubber washers under another part, to try to keep things both level~ish and minimize any damage from over-tightening the bolts.
Very solid. In hindsight, I should have considered using my RhinoRack awning brackets and flipping them upside down so that the awning sits lower, at essentially rack height. Oh well.
- Thread starter
- #44
Happy to report virtually no audible noise from having the awning mounted as it is. I'm very sensitive to new noise, to the point of finding roof racks (that others said to be silent) completely unacceptable (previous vehicle). The only noise I can pick up with the awning is at 110kph+, and it is a quiet rush of air; completely muffled by any level of music. Pleasantly surprised!
--
Did the sensor lift last weekend and netted 1 1/4" of height in all corners. 30mm rear spacers will be installed tomorrow.
I was initially apprehensive about the less-stable handling, but I think I've gotten used to the change. Will do an alignment soon and expect things to improve even more.
In the meantime, I did some work on my workbench, building a new shelf, hanging more storage, and organizing some of the commonly used tools. Much nicer work area now!
--
Did the sensor lift last weekend and netted 1 1/4" of height in all corners. 30mm rear spacers will be installed tomorrow.
I was initially apprehensive about the less-stable handling, but I think I've gotten used to the change. Will do an alignment soon and expect things to improve even more.
In the meantime, I did some work on my workbench, building a new shelf, hanging more storage, and organizing some of the commonly used tools. Much nicer work area now!
dubyahard
SILVER Star
Spacers on the front too?
- Thread starter
- #46
No, not planning to.
I'm mostly concerned about retaining my ability to carry weight in the rear. I don't plan on any heavy front-end mods (ie. bumper), and expect it to be just fine without the spacers.
Have you had the chance to test out the RedArc brake controller yet? Any feedback on performance? Your build is looking awesome!
dubyahard
SILVER Star
So do your front AHC shocks have to work harder to maintain the front lift? Similar to the way the 100 series AHC lift works?
- Thread starter
- #49
Went for a quick tow around town right after install, and a ~7hr round-trip camping trip the next weekend. Brake controller did it's job as much as I would expect it to, but I've never used one before (or had a trailer with brakes), so I don't have anything to compare against. Easy to use, clean-looking finished product, and it works; meets all of my criteria!
I'd imagine so, yes. I don't have access to TechStream to see the actual pressure values and compare before/after, but from what I've read online, it shouldn't be a large enough difference to have any real negative impact. But if someone knows otherwise, I'm certainly all ears! Adding front spacers is always a possibility down the line, too.
- Thread starter
- #50
Took the LX to the local indy this morning for an oil change.
I asked the indy to get Synthetic 0W-20 oil from Toyota, which they did. The oil was a mere $6.49 CAD/L (or is that quart?), and they used 7, as well as Toyota oil filter # 04152YZZA4. Including $21 worth of labour, the entire oil change was just $86 CAD. I'm pleasantly surprised by the cheap price, but also a bit wary/suspicious. This shop is highly recommended by seemingly everyone in town, and the guys were great to talk to, but I can't get over the feeling that they used some kind of wrong/cheap oil. This feeling is compounded by the "next oil change" sticker they put on the dashboard, on which they suggest the next oil change in just 7000km (4400 miles). I think I'll call Toyota next week and see what specifics I can find out.
They also installed the Fumoto F-103N engine oil drain valve, which I had bought for my Tacoma and never installed. The shop was hesitant to install this, saying they frequently see such valves leak. I've read nothing but good things myself, but I'll keep an eye on it. I also kept the original drain plug and put it w/ the tools in the LX.
The valve:
My front rotors finally got delivered this afternoon, so this evening I decided to swap the front rotors + pads. Didn't have time for the rear; will either do those this Sunday, or let the local shop install them for me, as the LX will be going in for rear spring spacers + alignment in any case.
This was my first time doing rotors or pads on any vehicle. Watched a few YouTube videos and dug in - pretty simple stuff. Going real slow, it took two hours to do the front; could probably do them in half the time if need be.
The front rotors are Power Stop JBR1312XPR (slotted & drilled), the rear rotors are Power Stop (JBR1355XPR), and the set of pads (front & rear) is TRD Performance PTR09-0C110. The pads came with instructions for how to break them in; outside of some details, the majority of the procedure is accelerating to 60mph, then rapidly slowing down to 5-10mph, and instantly repeating this process to a total of 10 times. The pads & rotors are then given a chance to cool off (without being used - ie. cruising) and the whole procedure is repeated a second time. I did a third time, too.
Initial impression is good. The pulsation I had in the previous rotors is gone, and the braking is smooth and strong. I expect another (small) improvement after doing the rears.
I was disappointed to find a fair bit of surface rust behind the rotors. This is after I took a wire brush to most of it:
And rust in the pistons:
Perhaps I'll need to do a calliper rebuild/replacement in a few years...
Shiny new parts:
I asked the indy to get Synthetic 0W-20 oil from Toyota, which they did. The oil was a mere $6.49 CAD/L (or is that quart?), and they used 7, as well as Toyota oil filter # 04152YZZA4. Including $21 worth of labour, the entire oil change was just $86 CAD. I'm pleasantly surprised by the cheap price, but also a bit wary/suspicious. This shop is highly recommended by seemingly everyone in town, and the guys were great to talk to, but I can't get over the feeling that they used some kind of wrong/cheap oil. This feeling is compounded by the "next oil change" sticker they put on the dashboard, on which they suggest the next oil change in just 7000km (4400 miles). I think I'll call Toyota next week and see what specifics I can find out.
They also installed the Fumoto F-103N engine oil drain valve, which I had bought for my Tacoma and never installed. The shop was hesitant to install this, saying they frequently see such valves leak. I've read nothing but good things myself, but I'll keep an eye on it. I also kept the original drain plug and put it w/ the tools in the LX.
The valve:
My front rotors finally got delivered this afternoon, so this evening I decided to swap the front rotors + pads. Didn't have time for the rear; will either do those this Sunday, or let the local shop install them for me, as the LX will be going in for rear spring spacers + alignment in any case.
This was my first time doing rotors or pads on any vehicle. Watched a few YouTube videos and dug in - pretty simple stuff. Going real slow, it took two hours to do the front; could probably do them in half the time if need be.
The front rotors are Power Stop JBR1312XPR (slotted & drilled), the rear rotors are Power Stop (JBR1355XPR), and the set of pads (front & rear) is TRD Performance PTR09-0C110. The pads came with instructions for how to break them in; outside of some details, the majority of the procedure is accelerating to 60mph, then rapidly slowing down to 5-10mph, and instantly repeating this process to a total of 10 times. The pads & rotors are then given a chance to cool off (without being used - ie. cruising) and the whole procedure is repeated a second time. I did a third time, too.
Initial impression is good. The pulsation I had in the previous rotors is gone, and the braking is smooth and strong. I expect another (small) improvement after doing the rears.
I was disappointed to find a fair bit of surface rust behind the rotors. This is after I took a wire brush to most of it:
And rust in the pistons:
Perhaps I'll need to do a calliper rebuild/replacement in a few years...
Shiny new parts:
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Anecdotal data for you, I've had a fumoto valve on all of my vehicles for years without a single leak.
- Thread starter
- #52
Back from the shop. They installed the new rear rotors + pads, 30mm rear spring spacers (to take pressure off the AHC system), and did an alignment. LX feels much tighter, and higher (although it can't be).
Really impressive work! Yes, we are all jealous of your workshop and blinged out garage!Made the small drawer and carpeted it inside. I originally planned to cover the top edges with aluminum c-channel, but after trying it, realized it was damn near impossible to get the channel to sit nicely with the carpet tucked in under it, so I gave up on that idea and just the left the cut carpet edge as-is.
Test fit:
When extended, the drawer tilted down and rested on the tailgate.
To minimize the tilting, I made "spacers" with HDPE on the bottom of them. It's a very tight fit, with merely 2mm of room between the bottom fo the spacer and the top of the drawer side. With this setup the drawer can be extended 95% and not be in contact with the tailgate. Of course, that changes when the drawer is loaded.
Threw on some tie-down rings and Front Runner Stratchits for day to day use.
The "small" drawer fits a pretty large amount of stuff. Recovery basic gear, tools, tons of ratcheting tie downs, water, paper towels, and there's lots of room to spare. The large drawer will be simply cavernous, but next up is building the new dog crate - that's higher priority.
Fantastic build... I can't imagine how maticulous you are about your LX and garage...
FWIW, I just had a Toyota dealership change my oil (2010 LX) and paid $86.09 CAD. Don't have the filter part number right now, but they used the same oil.
- Thread starter
- #56
This winter I want to park both the LX and the fiancee's Corolla outside the garage. No garage warmth means slower growth/progression for any rust, way cleaner garage (got really tired of bi-weekly cleaning of salt and grime last winter), and more room for toys (inside). Parking outside means I need remote starts, and I settled on the Compustar Pro G15 2-way for both vehicles.
I originally wanted the LCD-screened T11/T12 unit for the LX, but after giving it some thought, decided that simpler is better. The LCD screen is reported to be difficult to read in sunlight, and the additional functionality of that unit requires a lot more integration work with the vehicle - ie. more places for things to go wrong down the line (for functionality that I realistically don't even need). The cheaper Pro G15 is the better option for me.
The system was installed in my LX today (Corolla is being done tomorrow morning). Sounds like install went smoothly and simply. The tech merely stripped the insulation of a few wires, wrapped the wiring from the new unit, soldered, and wrapped everything in electrical tape. Simple and should prove to be problem-free.
The LX works as intended with one caveat: the trunk release button does open the rear hatch, but unlike the OEM remote, does not close it. That's a bit of a bummer, but not the end of the world. Outside of that, there's lock/unlock/start/shutdown, and a (advertised) 2-mile range, along with two-way confirmation for all actions.
The antenna is quite small, and invisible from the outside:
The remote itself is also fairly small (the unit came with two of these):
My LX came with the Lexus card key, but I never used it because I liked being able to open the trunk and doors from the remote. Now that I have a new remote for those features, I put the OEM remote away and put the card key in my wallet. Everything works like a charm, and is quite convenient. Although I do wonder what would happen if the card key's battery were to die while I was in the middle of nowhere... would I still be able to open & start the car? Maybe I'll take the battery out and try it out.
Total "regular" cost of the unit + install is $550 CAD + tax. The shop price-matched a big-box competitor at $500 CAD + tax. Not cheap, but not too bad, either.
I originally wanted the LCD-screened T11/T12 unit for the LX, but after giving it some thought, decided that simpler is better. The LCD screen is reported to be difficult to read in sunlight, and the additional functionality of that unit requires a lot more integration work with the vehicle - ie. more places for things to go wrong down the line (for functionality that I realistically don't even need). The cheaper Pro G15 is the better option for me.
The system was installed in my LX today (Corolla is being done tomorrow morning). Sounds like install went smoothly and simply. The tech merely stripped the insulation of a few wires, wrapped the wiring from the new unit, soldered, and wrapped everything in electrical tape. Simple and should prove to be problem-free.
The LX works as intended with one caveat: the trunk release button does open the rear hatch, but unlike the OEM remote, does not close it. That's a bit of a bummer, but not the end of the world. Outside of that, there's lock/unlock/start/shutdown, and a (advertised) 2-mile range, along with two-way confirmation for all actions.
The antenna is quite small, and invisible from the outside:
The remote itself is also fairly small (the unit came with two of these):
My LX came with the Lexus card key, but I never used it because I liked being able to open the trunk and doors from the remote. Now that I have a new remote for those features, I put the OEM remote away and put the card key in my wallet. Everything works like a charm, and is quite convenient. Although I do wonder what would happen if the card key's battery were to die while I was in the middle of nowhere... would I still be able to open & start the car? Maybe I'll take the battery out and try it out.
Total "regular" cost of the unit + install is $550 CAD + tax. The shop price-matched a big-box competitor at $500 CAD + tax. Not cheap, but not too bad, either.
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This winter I want to park both the LX and the fiancee's Corolla outside the garage. No garage warmth means slower growth/progression for any rust, way cleaner garage (got really tired of bi-weekly cleaning of salt and grime last winter), and more room for toys (inside). Parking outside means I need remote starts, and I settled on the Compustar Pro G15 2-way for both vehicles.
I originally wanted the LCD-screened T11/T12 unit for the LX, but after giving it some thought, decided that simpler is better. The LCD screen is reported to be difficult to read in sunlight, and the additional functionality of that unit requires a lot more integration work with the vehicle - ie. more places for things to go wrong down the line (for functionality that I realistically don't even need). The cheaper Pro G15 is the better option for me.
The system was installed in my LX today (Corolla is being done tomorrow morning). Sounds like install went smoothly and simply. The tech merely stripped the insulation of a few wires, wrapped the wiring from the new unit, soldered, and wrapped everything in electrical tape. Simple and should prove to be problem-free.
The LX works as intended with one caveat: the trunk release button does open the rear hatch, but unlike the OEM remote, does not close it. That's a bit of a bummer, but not the end of the world. Outside of that, there's lock/unlock/start/shutdown, and a (advertised) 2-mile range, along with two-way confirmation for all actions.
The antenna is quite small, and invisible from the outside:
The remote itself is also fairly small (the unit came with two of these):
My LX came with the Lexus card key, but I never used it because I liked being able to open the trunk and doors from the remote. Now that I have a new remote for those features, I put the OEM remote away and put the card key in my wallet. Everything works like a charm, and is quite convenient. Although I do wonder what would happen if the card key's battery were to die while I was in the middle of nowhere... would I still be able to open & start the car? Maybe I'll take the battery out and try it out.
Total "regular" cost of the unit + install is $550 CAD + tax. The shop price-matched a big-box competitor at $500 CAD + tax. Not cheap, but not too bad, either.
It will work via proximity. Just put the keycard as close to the start button when you push it and it will work. There is a laser cut key in the card as well that you can open your driver door with.
- Thread starter
- #58
Awesome, thanks for confirming!
- Thread starter
- #59
Last weekend I took the pressure washer (with some degreaser) to the undercarriage and did what I could to clean it. The end result was far from perfect, but a lot better than when I started. I also took the opportunity to give the exterior a good waxing using Turtle Ice Seal N Shine:
I washed the undercarriage largely in preparation for addressing the surface rust which had accumulated before my ownership. Original owners clearly did nothing to prevent it, and despite the low mileage, ~5 years of living on the west (wet) coast still resulted in some rust.
This is what I started with:
All fairly light stuff, with the rear corners of the frame being the worst:
I initially started brushing rust off with metal wire brushes (in the drill), but quickly realized that getting the drill + brush in place was a chore in the tight spaces, so I only brushed off what could be easily accessed.
I then liberally brushed on a few coats of Rust Converter Ultra, and waited 48hrs for it to fully cure. As advertised, it does turn rust black, but you have to brush on several coats for the full effect. The instructions also mention to apply this in temps > 10C, and sure enough, the only time I had to work on the LX, the air temperature was exactly 10C. Not ideal.
The product is a milky, bubbly-like liquid. After drying I was left with a lot of "dried up bubbles," almost like little bits of sand caught under paint. I suspect this is due to the cold temperatures in which I applied the product. Should have done this in the summer!
This is what the cured result looked like. You can see the bubbles I'm talking about, as well as a few spots where I could have applied some more of this rust converter:
I then started spraying everything with the DupliColor Self-Etching Primer. The Rust Converter product says a primer is not needed, but I figured it wouldn't hurt. I went through two cans, and sent the fiancee for three more. I figure I'll use around four total, to fully cover everything I can access with a few coats.
This type of "handle" makes spraying a hundred times easier. It is a life safer which allows for very moderate, controlled pressure on the spray can's trigger, which then lets you apply very light, very controlled strokes. Can't imagine spraying without it.
After a few light coats of primer I ended up with this:
I still have more priming work to do before I can paint. After painting, I will apply fluid film to the entire undercarriage.
My goal here is to prevent/minimize rust growth & accumulation, and not entirely "beat" rust, which is largely impossible without a frame-off sandblasting/painting/por15 treatment. Removing or masking parts is also entirely too much work, so there is overspray in various parts. Given that this is the undercarriage, I'm not concerned with the aesthetics too much. I do block off (with a piece of cardboard) body panels, and avoid spraying rubbers, hoses, etc. whenever possible.
Time will tell how much my efforts will pay off, but I hope that with this work done, and annual fluid-film (or similar) applications, I can extend the life of the frame & other components by some 5-10 years.
Also primed the TrailTailor recovery points, will paint them apple red and install soon:
I washed the undercarriage largely in preparation for addressing the surface rust which had accumulated before my ownership. Original owners clearly did nothing to prevent it, and despite the low mileage, ~5 years of living on the west (wet) coast still resulted in some rust.
This is what I started with:
All fairly light stuff, with the rear corners of the frame being the worst:
I initially started brushing rust off with metal wire brushes (in the drill), but quickly realized that getting the drill + brush in place was a chore in the tight spaces, so I only brushed off what could be easily accessed.
I then liberally brushed on a few coats of Rust Converter Ultra, and waited 48hrs for it to fully cure. As advertised, it does turn rust black, but you have to brush on several coats for the full effect. The instructions also mention to apply this in temps > 10C, and sure enough, the only time I had to work on the LX, the air temperature was exactly 10C. Not ideal.
The product is a milky, bubbly-like liquid. After drying I was left with a lot of "dried up bubbles," almost like little bits of sand caught under paint. I suspect this is due to the cold temperatures in which I applied the product. Should have done this in the summer!
This is what the cured result looked like. You can see the bubbles I'm talking about, as well as a few spots where I could have applied some more of this rust converter:
I then started spraying everything with the DupliColor Self-Etching Primer. The Rust Converter product says a primer is not needed, but I figured it wouldn't hurt. I went through two cans, and sent the fiancee for three more. I figure I'll use around four total, to fully cover everything I can access with a few coats.
This type of "handle" makes spraying a hundred times easier. It is a life safer which allows for very moderate, controlled pressure on the spray can's trigger, which then lets you apply very light, very controlled strokes. Can't imagine spraying without it.
After a few light coats of primer I ended up with this:
I still have more priming work to do before I can paint. After painting, I will apply fluid film to the entire undercarriage.
My goal here is to prevent/minimize rust growth & accumulation, and not entirely "beat" rust, which is largely impossible without a frame-off sandblasting/painting/por15 treatment. Removing or masking parts is also entirely too much work, so there is overspray in various parts. Given that this is the undercarriage, I'm not concerned with the aesthetics too much. I do block off (with a piece of cardboard) body panels, and avoid spraying rubbers, hoses, etc. whenever possible.
Time will tell how much my efforts will pay off, but I hope that with this work done, and annual fluid-film (or similar) applications, I can extend the life of the frame & other components by some 5-10 years.
Also primed the TrailTailor recovery points, will paint them apple red and install soon:
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This is a great built!
