Rust Bullet or Chassis Saver (or other) before sealing gutter?

[Spook50]

This winter my priority is fixing pillar/windshield leaks and fixing the rust that's starting to form around my gutter, along with resealing it. Would any of you recommend a rust converter (or sealer) be applied to the gutter prior to applying the body sealer? My hope is that thinned down enough, Chassis Saver or something similar would be able to wick into the tighter areas where a brush couldn't reach and provide better long term protection.

Thoughts?

 

[Spook50]

No one's done this?

Damn, looks like I'm gonna be the guinea pig.

 

[gregnash]

Keep us informed of what you do Spook. I know I have read a couple (literally a couple) threads where this has been tackled but dont remember anything about using a rust converter first. Maybe try in the 40/55 section as those guys might have a bit more info?

 

[HIKCM]

Try some Ospho, had success with this stuff on my 85 4 Rnnr! Good luck rust is hard to beat unless you cut it out!

 

[Spook50]

Keep us informed of what you do Spook. I know I have read a couple (literally a couple) threads where this has been tackled but dont remember anything about using a rust converter first. Maybe try in the 40/55 section as those guys might have a bit more info?

That's what I'm unsure of is if a rust converter like Rust Bullet or Ospho would be a good way to go (which I'm thinking might be, since I'm sure there will be at least small bits of rust there that I won't be able to physically remove without a ton of cutting), or if a protectant like Chassis Saver to seal it all off from the elements would be my best bet.

Hikcm, Ospho is one of the converter products I was thinking of. Blanked on the name when I started the thread though

 

[24HOURSOFNEVADA]

Check out Kevin Rowland's thread on his 60 series rebuild. He is the owner of Wagon Gear if that helps your search. It specifically deals with this repair (And every other one).

 

[canman]

I'm in the middle of some small rust repair. Depending on the severity of the rust, I would look at spot blasting if warranted as rust is usually worst than it appears. I have some Eastwood rust converter product and top coat, but haven't yet used it. I'm using Chassis Saver on my repair for coating the interior surfaces of my rear quarter panel. Other options are high zinc primers. I have some I picked up at a local welding supply store (Linde) and it seem to work well.

 

[Splangy]

I would take it down to bare metal, spray with epoxy primer, apply seam sealer, prime again (optional), and then paint. You won't beat those results.

 

[Spook50]

I'm hoping the rust isn't as bad as I'm fearing it is. I'm seeing some bubbling underneath both rear corners of the gutter and I'm really hoping it hasn't penetrated too deep into the sheet metal.

If it's just surface stuff that I can wirewheel away that'd be awesome, but somehow I don't think my luck is that good.

 

[ozcrusier]

I had a few bubbles forming in the stock paint of my old 1985 hj60 wagon. I searched every wrecking yard on the east coast of Australia until I found burnt out wreck so I could find out how to get fish oil into the roof turret.
The only way was to come up the rear corner seam in the roof trim about 12 inches and push a hole through the trim to get a 12 inches of thin tube into the roof corner. I used a horse syringe loaded with fish oil and just pushed a few loads in each corner. I owned the truck for 10 years and never had any problem with rust growing but the truck stunk like a sea food market for months. The fish oil was wicking out from under all the corking around the roof turret and windows seams for months after. The fish oil will wick and walk all around the roof turret especialy in the summer months.
Hope this helps you 60 owners

 

[Spook50]

I had a few bubbles forming in the stock paint of my old 1985 hj60 wagon. I searched every wrecking yard on the east coast of Australia until I found burnt out wreck so I could find out how to get fish oil into the roof turret.
The only way was to come up the rear corner seam in the roof trim about 12 inches and push a hole through the trim to get a 12 inches of thin tube into the roof corner. I used a horse syringe loaded with fish oil and just pushed a few loads in each corner. I owned the truck for 10 years and never had any problem with rust growing but the truck stunk like a sea food market for months. The fish oil was wicking out from under all the corking around the roof turret and windows seams for months after. The fish oil will wick and walk all around the roof turret especialy in the summer months.
Hope this helps you 60 owners

Fish oil??? That's the first I've ever heard of using fish oil to treat rust. The smell doesn't sound too pleasant though. I don't want my truck to smell like the lowest point of a drunken night in Vegas.

 

[ozcrusier]

A drunken night in Vegas sounds good to me as it would hold some fond memories depending on the fuel comsumpion

 

[norsk]

I have the same issues

Kevin Rowland's thread, he used ATF oil and inserted with a dental syringe. ATF wicks up into tight areas

Like him, I have several spots on the roof I have cut out and need to weld in new ones.

I have sprayed Metal Blaster (From the Rust Bullet gang) into the seams (have taken down the headliner to gain access).

Thought about using Zero Rust into there as well, followed by the ATF oil. Kevin also drilled drain holes into the pillars so that water would not puddle therein.

I am still looking for solutions prior to trying my own

dougbert