Rust Around the Windshield...

[SoCal Dan]

I'm looking to pick up a 100 series for a few reasons (snow vehicle, extra vehicle, first car for my daughter in a couple of years). Checked out one today. Pretty rough but I'm not looking for a show vehicle.

What did concern me was a spot of rust on the A pillar, and then some rust along the leading edge of the roof. I've attached a couple of pictures.

I don't care about the aesthetics, and I live in Southern California so we don't have road salt to worry about. But, if this is indicative of a water intrusion issue or some other more serious problem, I'll keep looking around.

Would love your thoughts...

A Pillar

• SoCal Dan
• Oct 15, 2016

Leading Edge of Roof

• SoCal Dan
• Oct 15, 2016

 

[Emcd]

That's a bit of rust. Where is the car from? I have rust there to, not that bad, but still there. It can be fixed fairly easily. I got a quote for about a grand. Mine has no rust holes, just surface rust.

 

[SmoothLC]

That's typically a bad place for rust. If the windshield has been replaced, then it wasn't sealed properly.

 

[Emcd]

It is bad place, but it can be ground down, treated, and even cut out if there's a hole. It looks localized on the top p/s.

 

[Ducati]

Mine had same issue. Body shop told me that it came from a bad install of replacement
windshield.
You can cover the rust, or pull the windshield and deal with the cancer.
I chose to replace and repair because I'm going to keep the LC for a long time.

 

[Emcd]

Honestly, if it's been a CA all its life, I'd bet it's just surface rust that can be ground, treated and painted. I'm doing mine in a month or so.

 

[2001LC]

It's very possible we all have this issue to one degree or another. I'd like to see a few testimonials of older models, where they've never had windshield replaced to be sure.

I once advocated the use of wide upper molding to reduce paint chips on leading edge, but no longer. Now I say; use the slimmest molding, to reduce hidden organics from becoming acid and just paint the chips.

I say this because a manage (30 year man) of Safelite busiest store in my area, has told me it's more than installers nicking the paint, causing this rusting. He said it has to do with design, where molding is holding in organic matter, it then becomes acidic eating into paint. He showed me how newer vehicle have redesign this area, install procedure is now easier and less prone to nicking. Also new molding design covers less and area is more open lending itself to better cleaning.

I think it would be a GOOD idea to pull windshields as PM and de-rust on a schedule. Time interval would depend on environmental factors like geographic location and garaged or not.

I'm getting ready to pull my windshield to see if can just grind out the rust or if it will need to go body shop for re-tinning.

This spot was not from a rock chip and my rig has been garaged most of it's life. Although it's had two windshield replacement, so I suspect install nicks. This visible PS rust is the one I've seen the most on rig I've inspected. I'll bet this small spot will be two to three times larger under the paint, hopefully not through metal yet.

About two years ago, minor bubbling:

Before scraping this year:

After scraping revealing rust:

A pillar inspection, minor rust stain. This was from installer drilling holes, which is all to common:

I'll stay and watch all future installs.

 

[SoCal Dan]

As far as I know this truck was a Southern California truck it's whole life. Not sure about any windshield replacements- seller says he has maintenance records since new but he hasn't been able to find them.

Based on the responses I'm going to classify this as a fairly typical issue for these trucks, rather than as a problem that makes this truck a "bad one" to avoid.

Anyone have a ballpark idea how much a body shop would charge to remove the windshield, grind, paint, and install a new windshield?

Thanks for all the responses.

 

[Wetwillie]

When you pull that glass, I would bet that there is a great deal of rust. I just dealt with this, as my truck was leaking really bad. After pulling the windshield, and having all the surface rust repaired, I was still getting water inside. After 2 weeks of water testing, I found the leak in a tiny hairline seam between the top roof skin and the lower roof under the molding above the windshield. What a PITA. Good luck.....

 

[2001LC]

^ That's where I've been told is the most common rust & leak spot (between the weld of upper and lower roof tin).

I've heard $800 up to $2,500 for re-tinning, windshield, molding and paint.

If rust is not bad (reason for doing as PM) then just have installer come to house and remove. Either they will grind out rust for you and coat or you can grind yourself and have them come back to install. Then it's just around $300 or $500 for new windshield or windshield & molding. $100 if you've insurance to cover broken glass.

 

[Emcd]

That exactly what I was told. It's worth it, plus it's a great way to negotiate the LC's price downwards.