Ruff Stuff SOA Kit

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So if I get this kit, I will be able in do the SOA, what about the steering componets. I know that I am going to need new componets for that right?

thanks for the quick reply. :cheers:
 
I am all so looking at this kit and was having the same ? With the steering and if on this kit is it totally required to cut and turn the knuckles ?
 
Most people will say that it's a must-do to cut and turn the knuckles, because going to a spring-over changes your caster angle. Steering and handling characteristics can be adversely affected. While few others will say it's not necessary to cut and turn.

Since you have to strip the axle anyways to do the spring over, spend the extra time to rotate the knuckles. You will probably need hi-steer arms so the tie-rod can clear the springs. The length of the tie-rod and drag link shouldn't change, but if they're oem it would probably be a good time to upgrade them since a spring-over usually means larger tires and more stress on components.
 
Awesome! Thanks for the response on this, I still dont know If I will pick up the kit or not maybe just a Histeer kit. I can go to a 4wheel place and get the new perches from a dana 60 and modify them. The U bolts I can also pick up from there. I am trying to figure out from the kit how much will it be justifyable for $425. Am I missing something?

Is there an HiSteer kit you would recommend?
 
I'm no veteran of the SOA business but I assumed you need something along the following.

kit like from ruff stuff
High steer kit like Marlin or other source
potentially ram assist steering
torque bar/track bar setup to control axle wrap
 
Awesome, thanks for the reply. I see many people that do the SOA Conversion and do no user Torque bar. I was planning on installing one anyways, I know the low HP and Tourque from the 2F you normally dont have to worry about that. I want to do it anyways for stability reasons. I am also thinking about installing bigger sway bars back and front, we will see how it does from stock.
 
At it's best managing that right front spring perch is a pain, and MAY be made harder by trying to hack up a D60 perch to make it fit. Poke around a build thread featuring the Ruff Stuff kit to see how it's done their way.
Fitting traditional style sway bars onto a SOA cruiser seems tough. What is your expected performance out of the truck when it's all done?
 
Wile E Coyote said:
What is your expected performance out of the truck when it's all done?
Click to expand...

Great question... think about how your will use the truck majority of the time.

If the answer is not "rockcrawling", then there are other effective cheaper/easier solutions.

If ya wanna look good for the high school girls... I don't blame you, but don't be supprised if your not happy in the end.
 
SOA

If your planing to go big with tires, you will need to regear your
axles. pick up some 411s out of an fj62, that way you dont have to mess with your ring & pinion.
I went with the marlin hi-steer kit $400.00 well spent.
I bought the Ruff Stuff SOA kit as well.
Now I just need to find the time to put it together.:o
Good Luck. It is a long dark deep road that you want to go down with the SOA. BUT! At least you can go down that road in your crusier.:cheers:

RAMZ.
 
When you call Dan at Ruffstuff he will set you straight with exactly what you need. I know when I ordered mine it wasn't nearly as much as the listed price with only the parts I needed.

I don't know why steering gets drug in with a cut and turn. Steering has absolutely nothing to do with a cut and turn. In fact the only thing a cut and turn can do to steering is jack it up if done incorrectly. You can set your caster at whatever you want with the perches.

Cut and turning has everything to do with pinion angle/drive shaft angle. That is it, not steering. If you have an fj60 it is advisable to do as your pinion angle will be extreme. If you have an fj62 or an engine swap then you would probably not need it.

I run mine at about 3 degrees positive caster and its silky smooth up to 96mph when the governor shuts me down. Great offroad as well and I get excellent tread wear. I have an engine swap and no cut and turn. I do have a CV driveshaft since I had 2 new ones built when I did my swap.

If you cut and turn you will also need a cv driveshaft so keep that in mind as well.

So if your doing this to your fj60 you'll need,

Perches, Spring Plates, Ubolts, Shock Towers, Lower shock tabs, A high steer kit, 2 CV driveshafts 4 new shocks, A knuckle rebuild kit, and optional is a steering stabalizer.

SOA rides better than any other spring combo out there with the exception of maybe the Mojave kit (I don't know I have never been in one and it seems very well designed). My next step is fully linked but that is another discussion.

Here's A little motivation.
FJ60.webp
FJ602.webp
 
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Cut and turn accounts for the pinion angle and for caster. Set your pinion angle where you want (pointed at the Tcase if running a CV) and then adjust caster afterwards with a cut and turn. Caster does affect the steering; it helps the steering wheel return to center. Too much and it will be hard to turn, too little and it will be less stable at higher speeds. 3-4 degrees positive is a good place to be for SOA. As for a steering stabilizer Ram assist is the best stabilizer you can get, especially when running bigger tires.
 
DONT do the "0" perch s really "0" and the factory one is 4-5"ish" so make sure you go with the middle Offset front perch ... if your not doung a Shackle rev and using stock spring you dont need thoe whole kit I have ALOT of left overs ... just the front and rear purch and ubolt kits, a shock mounts from a mid 80's Ford F350 shock mounts for the front(part number E5tz-18183-a from Ford) MArlin Crawlers High steer kit... if I was to do it again I would do a cut in turn my pinon is way too low
 
boots4 said:
Cut and turn accounts for the pinion angle and for caster. Set your pinion angle where you want (pointed at the Tcase if running a CV) and then adjust caster afterwards with a cut and turn. Caster does affect the steering; it helps the steering wheel return to center. Too much and it will be hard to turn, too little and it will be less stable at higher speeds. 3-4 degrees positive is a good place to be for SOA. As for a steering stabilizer Ram assist is the best stabilizer you can get, especially when running bigger tires.
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It accounts for one or the other. If your perches are burned it is caster if your perches aren't burned in its pinion angle. You can have perfect caster without cutting and turning but in a fj60 your drive shaft angle will suck. You can have a perfect pinion angle but your caster will suck. Its only ever one or the other that you do a cut and turn.
 
Kurtis said:
Its only ever one or the other that you do a cut and turn.
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That's the point of a CNT you make BOTH right

Sent from outer space via my mind
 
kling-on said:
That's the point of a CNT you make BOTH right

Sent from outer space via my mind
Click to expand...


I agree that One is already right as soon as you A. burn in your perches or B. fix you axle in a jig, you fix the other with a cut and turn.




This really just annoys me because when I did my spring over axle I had quite a few very narrow minded individuals telling me if you don't do a cut and turn it will steer horribly. No matter how many times I tried to explain to them that 3 degrees of caster is 3 degrees of caster regardless if the axle has been cut and turned or not and all that is effected is pinion angle which is very close to stock.
 
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