RTP w/ Radflo shock

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On the 100 series, the shocks is the limiting strap for the suspension. Even with arms that allow more flex.

There should be no need for limiting straps. As for compression, that is where bump stops come into play if needed to protect the shock from over compressing.

If the shock is way to short and you have no down travel at normal driving and you are repeatedly pounding the mounts of the shocks and the internals, then I can see it lead to early shock failure.

I don't know what the original order of bushings / washers was, but something failed and the bushing /washers got pulled through the mounting hole.

The Pro Fenders will need a strap, do you have any tips on length? I found some that are 7.5" online.
 
On phone so let me know if answer isn't clear. You may need to lower bump stops and possibly add limiting straps. Remember, with straps, they stretchy and eventually need replacing.

You have the cycling correct. Whatever distance beyond your shock extension is the bump stop extension needed. Add a little safety.

Before you go l-shock, search for the thread "do shocks push axle down" or something like that. It is from 2006. Lots of good info there and talks about l-shocks and bumpstops and pros/cons.

Hope this helps!

You mean this? https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series-cruisers/86953-does-shock-push-axle-down.html

YOU!!!! I found the thread and i'm only on page three! Hopefully the rest of the pages aren't like the first two. Man. The first two were so frustrating! Really frustrating. Thank you for the direction to find that post though. Honestly, if you read it slow, it all makes sense (ie: christo's, ats's) explanation. Hope it helps someone here.


On the 100 series, the shocks is the limiting strap for the suspension. Even with arms that allow more flex.

There should be no need for limiting straps. As for compression, that is where bump stops come into play if needed to protect the shock from over compressing.

If the shock is way to short and you have no down travel at normal driving and you are repeatedly pounding the mounts of the shocks and the internals, then I can see it lead to early shock failure.

I don't know what the original order of bushings / washers was, but something failed and the bushing /washers got pulled through the mounting hole.

My limit strap broke loose. The original order of bushing/washers is just as you see it.
 
My limit strap broke loose. The original order of bushing/washers is just as you see it.

You should not need a limit strap, except if you have shocks that long that the spring can come unseated.

Was there a washer above the mounting hole / below the top bushing? I can't see in that in the photos.
 
Are all shocks made with this in mind, or will limiting straps be needed with certain ones?

As of now the Pro Fender shocks need them. The UCA now stops down travel on the frame...not good IMO.

image-547615431.webp
 
As of now the Pro Fender shocks need them. The UCA now stops down travel on the frame...not good IMO.
you are talking front straps...pretty sure slee is referring to the rear shock issue...front straps are needed, depending on the shock length...
 
ya that was my next question... Nick, are you hitting the front bumpstops before your shock is fully compressed?

I have not checked, I will tomorrow though. I'm a bit confused on why Pro Fender shows they are for a 2" lift, it's a 2" longer shaft...and these trucks (100's) are pretty picky with shock length. I am VERY tempted just to throw some cheap OEM's in there and replace them once a year. I have found out that the more stuff you add on these rigs the more of a pain in the ass it gets to make sure you won't have any issues. While the benefits are apparent, sometimes the amount of work to get it all right isn't worth it. GSMTR will tell me very quickly if I have any issues. That will be the trip to determine whether I go back to a traditional shock and keep it simple.
 
You shouldn't need one on the rear, unless, as Christo said, your shock is long enough that you can droop the axle enough to maybe have the spring fall out.

Was there a washer above the mounting hole / below the top bushing? I can't see in that in the photos.

That was my question, it almost appears that there's a big washer missing in the stack.
 
You should not need a limit strap, except if you have shocks that long that the spring can come unseated.

Was there a washer above the mounting hole / below the top bushing? I can't see in that in the photos.

This is the left side that is currently still intact.





All the bushings will be replaced.
 
looks like there should be a bigger washer....but i do not have my truck close by to look at.
 
When my Radflo 2.5 Reservoirs are fully extended, the rear coil is loose, but it does not fall out. It's well documented that Radflos are too short in the front..
 
That does not look right. Does the washer move down and hit the top of the mount if you lift the rear by the bumper? If so it's put together wrong or something has already failed.

As Christo pointed out you should not need straps but the shock has to be designed to be the travel limit.
I recall some Radflow discussions about aluminum travel stops inside the shock, that would NOT be a soft way to limit travel and something must give. Not sure, just throwing it out there.

You doing a lot of jumps or washboard on your way to the office with the kids?

As Truck mentioned I would want to know WHY this happened so it could be prevented/corrected I would not just swap in like parts and hit the road.
 
Def. should not look like that. The way it is the shock can move from where it is to the washer and back. You should have something like this - with the mount sitting between the two middle metal washers and the washers being bigger than the mounting hole.

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That does not look right. Does the washer move down and hit the top of the mount if you lift the rear by the bumper? If so it's put together wrong or something has already failed.

You doing a lot of jumps or washboard on your way to the office with the kids?

As Truck mentioned I would want to know WHY this happened so it could be prevented/corrected I would not just swap in like parts and hit the road.


Washer does not move up and down. It surprisingly doesn't move at all. If you look at the third or fourth picture in the first post, that's the way it would look if i removed the left shock minus the bent washer.

I live on Long Island. Ask Loud where to find jumps or washboards here cuz i haven't found them. hahaha... I work in Queens (suburb in a county of NYC). Unfortunately, all paved (potholed) roads.


Def. should not look like that. The way it is the shock can move from where it is to the washer and back. You should have something like this - with the mount sitting between the two middle metal washers and the washers being bigger than the mounting hole.

The mount... the shock has a metal collar in the middle of the shock post that sits in the mount. My guess is that the bushing on top of the mount is too small, but still... why did the shock pull out? It's like getting to the center of a tootsie roll tootsie pop... the world may never know.


Here's a question to ponder... Could it be possible, that if the top mount is not completely sandwiched by the bushings/washer, that going over a speed bump could cause it to pull out? If this is the case, would proper fitting bushings prevent this from happening?

Really.... All i want is a comfortable ride with a lift. I dare not ask the question of which lift is best. :doh:
 
Are you sure the chassis mount is as it was? i.e. a little piece of landcruiser is not still attached to your shock. Can't tell from the pics if the mount tore out and the top washer is suposed to be a safety retainer for when this occurs? Rear shocks are one of a few components I haven't worked on on the 100 yet so I'm not 100% sure of what the pre-break looked like.
 
Are you sure the chassis mount is as it was? i.e. a little piece of landcruiser is not still attached to your shock. Can't tell from the pics if the mount tore out and the top washer is suposed to be a safety retainer for when this occurs? Rear shocks are one of a few components I haven't worked on on the 100 yet so I'm not 100% sure of what the pre-break looked like.

Pretty sure otherwise i'd be pretty pissed.
 
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