RTP w/ Radflo shock
- Thread starter 3D FJ
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Because with the way it's mounted it has a range of motion within the mount. They've probably been slamming up and down inside the mount since you put them on, the one side finally just deformed the washer enough to come out.
Here's a radlfo from expo, you can see the bushings are the same size and bigger than the mounting hole. It doesn't look like they ship with washers in the middle. Looks like you got the wrong upper bushing.
EDIT - SD's post also points out that you have the top washer upside down. They're slightly cupped, the dome should go up.
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- Thread starter
- #43
Yes he has. I didn't have any extra parts that i didn't install. (not like ikea furniture)
This is how my Radflo's came from the factory. Seems they should have a washer between the two rubber grommets to prevent rubbing..
- Thread starter
- #45
that's the way the fronts looked. So if the bushing are too small and they bounce around and allowed to hit the top washer below the nut, then substantial downward force could cause the shock to pull out of the mount. hmm.... The only active downward force would be caused by my springs when compressed. If while wheeling, a force upward of the left wheel would cause droop of the right in the absence of pavement... could the shock be too short? (i'm not good at writing down my thoughts.)
Mine absolutely had a metal washer between the rubber bushings otherwise, it wouldn't fit in the mount, meaning, it would move all around.
Not a washer, but kinda like a metal spacer.
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It would be when your spring was extending. And when this happened - over speed bumps, gutters, potholes - rather than the shock absorbing the jolt, the whole shock body was probably bouncing around off the top (and upside down) washer. You said you've been hearing a thud, that was probably it.
Your fix is simple:
- new upper bushings for both PS and DS
- new upper washer for PS
- replace DS upper bushing and flip washer
- Thread starter
- #47
trunk- I see what you say about the cupped washer.
Should i have cranked down on the nut til the washer sat against the mount? At the time of installation, i didn't think to take a pic of the top of the mount or even to be able to look at it as i was going based on torque specs. But if i didn't have my iphone to take a picture of it, i wouldn't have been able to see whether or not the washer was sitting against the mount. Back in 03, i don't even think they had camera phones.
Should there be any movement at all within the top mount? There's gotta be right? Otherwise why have the bushings there? With movement and articulation, the shock has to move. but... Why then include a metal spacer to fit the mounting hole?
Thus Glenn is sending new bushing kits.
Should i have cranked down on the nut til the washer sat against the mount? At the time of installation, i didn't think to take a pic of the top of the mount or even to be able to look at it as i was going based on torque specs. But if i didn't have my iphone to take a picture of it, i wouldn't have been able to see whether or not the washer was sitting against the mount. Back in 03, i don't even think they had camera phones.
Should there be any movement at all within the top mount? There's gotta be right? Otherwise why have the bushings there? With movement and articulation, the shock has to move. but... Why then include a metal spacer to fit the mounting hole?
Thus Glenn is sending new bushing kits.
No. Again, the upper bushing is the WRONG ONE. It's small enough that it can fit through the body mounting hole. Make sure in the new kit you get that the upper one is the same size as the lower one you have on there now.
The small washer/spacer inbetween the two bushings is meant to keep the shock from moving horizontally around in the hole, not from moving vertically. The shock body should not move once it's mounted. The only thing that should move is the piston inside the shock - that's it. The movement the bushings provide is minimal at best.
You should tighten the top nut until the bushings deform just slightly. You should NOT compress the bushing to the point that the washer is against the mount.
If you're not sure how much to tighten them, what order they should go in, etc. I would suggest having another Mud member nearby help you out or having a shop do the install.
First you've mentioned that - what did he say the problem is?
The small washer/spacer inbetween the two bushings is meant to keep the shock from moving horizontally around in the hole, not from moving vertically. The shock body should not move once it's mounted. The only thing that should move is the piston inside the shock - that's it. The movement the bushings provide is minimal at best.
You should tighten the top nut until the bushings deform just slightly. You should NOT compress the bushing to the point that the washer is against the mount.
If you're not sure how much to tighten them, what order they should go in, etc. I would suggest having another Mud member nearby help you out or having a shop do the install.
First you've mentioned that - what did he say the problem is?
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- Thread starter
- #49
I am comfortable doing the install. Before i do any install, i just like to make certain to try and cover all bases before doing anything. I try to understand what i'm doing.
He didn't say what the problem is other than the replacement bushings he's sending me are more robust and made of a different material. Hopefully i'll get them within the next few days.
Thanks for the correction! I had L-shocks on the mind....
Same here. Tried re-using the metal spacer from OEM, but there is barely enough threads to get the nut started with just the OEM rubber. No way with anything else in there. If Radflo has updated this I'd like to know...
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- #52
Ok. So i received new bushings on thursday from Glenn. They are the same as those in SDC's picture. Here's the pic again.
Couple of things to note... I honestly think my truck rides much better than it ever did even when i first installed the radflo's. I really think that the original bushings that they came with really didn't do the shocks justice. I will say though that I believe that I feel that the bushing could still be a tad bit larger (diameter wise) as I had to install, unbolt, reposition and rebolt my left shock as i kinda felt that the bushing wasn't quite wide enough the way the shock was sitting and it seemed as if it were missing the mount hole in a very small section. Then again, i suppose that if i had another person holding the shock and guiding it along as i tightened the bolt, then perhaps that would have made everything align the first time.
Another thing was, with these new bushings, it wasn't the easiest thing to get the nut threaded. I kinda had to create a lever of sorts to push the shock body up just to get it threaded.
I made sure to be mindful of the caliper, and any zerks (lca, caliper)
Now my bushings look like this.
Overall, I am happy. Just one more thing though...
Couple of things to note... I honestly think my truck rides much better than it ever did even when i first installed the radflo's. I really think that the original bushings that they came with really didn't do the shocks justice. I will say though that I believe that I feel that the bushing could still be a tad bit larger (diameter wise) as I had to install, unbolt, reposition and rebolt my left shock as i kinda felt that the bushing wasn't quite wide enough the way the shock was sitting and it seemed as if it were missing the mount hole in a very small section. Then again, i suppose that if i had another person holding the shock and guiding it along as i tightened the bolt, then perhaps that would have made everything align the first time.
Another thing was, with these new bushings, it wasn't the easiest thing to get the nut threaded. I kinda had to create a lever of sorts to push the shock body up just to get it threaded.
I made sure to be mindful of the caliper, and any zerks (lca, caliper)
Now my bushings look like this.
Overall, I am happy. Just one more thing though...
...which is?
- Thread starter
- #54
Stay tuned.
I've learned that things should be best dealt with by the people involved first. I made that mistake once already. BTW.. We should go wheeling soon. I just have to connect the electrics for the lockers first.
lots of stuff going on there in the island of the long
good to see that beast back on the road with lockers!!!
see you soon D!
good to see that beast back on the road with lockers!!!
see you soon D!
An easier way is to get the nut on without the top conical washer. Let it compress and seat the bushings. Then back it off and install the top washer. You'll still have 2-3 threads showing and can drive it down.
What was unclear to me was how much preload to put on them. It's not like you can get a torque wrench up there. I stopped with about 3 threads visible above the nut.
Because it's easier to get to the top nut with the vehicle on jack stands. Good point, though, that the pre-load on the bushing needs to be set after the truck is back on it's feet.