RTP w/ Radflo shock

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3

3D FJ

10 Year 15 Year
Joined
Aug 19, 2010
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53
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696
Location
Long Island, NY
Yes. I am having a real time problem (don't need RTH but thank you to those who help) with my radflo rear shock. Here's the story:

I'm on my way to my office with my son to grab a harbor freight 20% coupon. I'm about half way there when i noticed a very different clunk. Now I've been noticing a clunk coming from the rear of my truck for the last month. (my truck has been drivable for only about 1 week of the last month as i was having my gears replaced and lockers put in so it's been on jack stands in my driveway for that time) So essentially, i've noticed it for approximately a weeks time. At first i thought it was my rear lca's as i have the ones from hardline fabrication and have not upgraded the bolts to the bigger size. So i left it alone and figured i'd order bolts soon. Today as i was going over a speed bump, i noticed a very different clunk. It was more of a hollow sound. I pulled over to look, and to my surprise, my right rear shock had pulled through the upper shock mount. :eek: I don't know if the nut that holds it in is still there, however i am positive that it was torqued down and i'm pretty sure i used thread locker. The washer that holds the shock on top of the mount is still there but it's pretty bent, so perhaps the nut is still there. I hobbled home and there it sits in the driveway until my wife or someone comes home to watch the kids until i can remove the shock. Hopefully my shock mount isn't buggered up. I don't think it is. Pics to follow...

BTW. I know i torqued the bolt because i used a torque wrench utilizing the hole i made in the floor of my body. (yes... i went that route)

Radflo's are about a year and a half old. ordered through the first couple that metaltech were selling (they barely had a mount for the front resi's at the time)
 
Are you sure....I mean absolutely positively sure you didn't use an air impact when installing your shocks? :flipoff2: Good luck.....
 
pics heavy

The little one is asleep so here they are...









 
jonharis said:
Are you sure....I mean absolutely positively sure you didn't use an air impact when installing your shocks? :flipoff2: Good luck.....
Click to expand...

All by hand, using a craftsman torque wrench to factory spec.
 
call radflo and let us know how that goes....:rolleyes:....the new FOX bolt on shocks just keep sounding better and better......
 
As far as the bushings, I actually called radflo during install to make sure I had the order of the correct both on the fronts and rear. I spoke to Glenn at that time for sure. I may remove the other side when I have time to make sure that side is ok as well. I just wished I took pics of the install as I have done with some of the other things u have installed. I am pretty OCD when it comes to getting things installed in the proper order. Gosh.. Ben @ sleeoffroad will tell you how many questions I hit him with during the whole process of the regearing. I try to leave no stone unturned. I hate having to do things twice.

Right now, I really don't know if its my imagination but I just took a ride to pick up my daughter from school and the truck actually felt less harsh over the bumps in the road. Is this possible?
 
Less harsh with no shock? Probably....the Radflos seem to be setup up quite stiff.
 
Glenn Comes through!

As with every telephone call i've ever had with glenn (radflo head honcho), he was courteous, understanding and fixed the problem. He's sending out the parts to fix the problem today. As with anything we do with these trucks, sometimes things break or problems arise. Nothing and no one is perfect but i think it's a true reflection of a company with how they deal with it. I'm glad it's all going to work out.
 
you need to properly cycle your suspension. With the Hardline LCA, you will notice that you will get more axle droop than with the OEM/Slee style LCA. Therefore right now your shock is the limiting factor in the rear travel. You will need to limit that travel or it will most likely happen again.
 
How do I limit downward travel of the axle? Bump stops? Is this where one would go for longer travel shocks? 1st I have to cycle the suspension. Is it safe to say that Without shocks and springs, when I make one side of the rear suspension compress as much as possible, the opposite side length from mount to mount should not be longer than the shock fully extended?
 
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3D FJ said:
How do I limit downward travel of the axle? Bump stops? Is this where one would go for longer travel shocks? 1st I have to cycle the suspension. Is it safe to say that Without shocks and springs, when I make one side of the rear suspension compress as much as possible, the opposite side length from mount to mount should not be longer than the shock fully extended?
Click to expand...

On phone so let me know if answer isn't clear. You may need to lower bump stops and possibly add limiting straps. Remember, with straps, they stretchy and eventually need replacing.

You have the cycling correct. Whatever distance beyond your shock extension is the bump stop extension needed. Add a little safety.

Before you go l-shock, search for the thread "do shocks push axle down" or something like that. It is from 2006. Lots of good info there and talks about l-shocks and bumpstops and pros/cons.

Hope this helps!
 
On the 100 series, the shocks is the limiting strap for the suspension. Even with arms that allow more flex.

There should be no need for limiting straps. As for compression, that is where bump stops come into play if needed to protect the shock from over compressing.

If the shock is way to short and you have no down travel at normal driving and you are repeatedly pounding the mounts of the shocks and the internals, then I can see it lead to early shock failure.

I don't know what the original order of bushings / washers was, but something failed and the bushing /washers got pulled through the mounting hole.
 
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