RTH: Spider Gear Re-Installation (1 Viewer)

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I know it had to do with the locker, but realize that from my point of view, I didn't start the thread to bash or condemn the locker. I don't want to put it all on someone else. I just want my rig up and running, and frustration is building.

So there was no issue before the locker was installed, ran great. I installed the locker, then drove it around a limited amount. When I first installed it, the noises were truly bad, so I removed it at that time and reinstalled it. Noise level was greatly decreased, but still way louder than I thought it should be. I will admit that I have never heard a lunchbox locker before, and was told by several folks that they make more noise during the break-in period. So, I tried to just let it go for those few miles. That was my mistake. I read the gap distances in the installation booklet, and you can see from the pic that it was on the lower end of normal.

So, I drove home and didn't move it for a day after the initial (two) install(s). Next day I drove it again, still much more noise than I can stand to hear. I took it out after it continued to make noise. I do want to have a locker in the rear, but not at the expense of an ARB, etc. So that is where I'm at.

I found a 4.11 third for $190 shipped to me. Is that a good deal?
 
Is there a way to salvage the carrier, or should I go for the $190 option?
 
I'm with PinHead on this one, change the diff itself. If you've found a complete third member with gearset and all that for $190 I'd just drop that thing in and be done with it. Your old carrier can be used as a core for an ARB.
 
That carrier is done as Pin Head mentioned already. If you can get a complete good used third for $190, then there's your answer. Install the spartan correctly ( don't use that hammer again :lol: ) and you're good to go.

I have a few buckets full of spare carriers ( left overs from ARB installs ) that are up for grabs. Freebies, just pay shipping.

Georg
 
Thanks Georg! Already have the new third on the way.

Your comment brings up another question. The side couplers on the Spartan also show some wear. Not nearly as bad, but they're not machined smooth any more. Discard the locker and chalk it up to experience?
 
Thanks Georg! Already have the new third on the way.

Your comment brings up another question. The side couplers on the Spartan also show some wear. Not nearly as bad, but they're not machined smooth any more. Discard the locker and chalk it up to experience?

Warranty? At least call spartan and email them pics of what happened. Hopefully they can explain what the problem is, and either replace the parts or give you a discount on replacement parts if they determine that it was installation error or whatnot
 
I'd love to think so, but I need to be able to contact them first.
 
Who did you get the locker thru? I might try contacting the retailer first. I got mine thru Randy's ring and pinion and I have talked to them on the phone several times about other things and seem like a good bunch. Might try that route and then go direct if you can't get them.

I have had mine in for about 6 months and I literally buttoned mine up and backed out of the drive and took a 200+ mile trip, wheeled all weekend and drove back home and it worked great. To further my point, as I was backing out it ratcheted and my wife said is it supposed to do that, and as I put it in drive I said "I don't know, but we are about to find out"
 
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I bought the locker through a seller on ebay, jynx. I have determined that the maker/distributor is Randy's, and they are the folks I've been trying to reach. Unfortunately, haven't had any luck so far. Will try again tomorrow.
 
Got the new (to me) rear diff in via FedEx today. It looks to be in great shape, so waiting for resolution of the locker issue before installation.

BUT, I have a question: do some unlocked rear diffs have an extra part in them (by year maybe) that newer ones don't? This one has a center "sleeve" that's flat on opposite sides and the center cross shaft pin runs through the center of it. My old one definitely didn't have that part. Anyone?
 
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Almost looks like someone previously had a locker in this rear and took out the locker, leaving this part behind. See the marks on it? Thinking just pull the cross shaft pin and yank that part out.

 
That is odd... can the cross pin be removed? I haven't seen anything like that.
 
Pinhead is right, that diff was out of a semi float axle not a full float that is the reason for the block there. But, it won't matter because once you pull the cross pin out the block will come out too.
 
Ouch man I forgot to mention your not supposed to use those I assumed you left them out as the instructions believe state
 
Ah, I swapped my SF for a FF and never cracked that puppy open. Explains why I didn't know what it was. True that it doesn't matter the chunk is the same.
 
So out of curiosity, if I'd left it in, and reinstalled in my FF as-is, would it have worked? Or would it have caused an issue if it did initially work?

Thanks for the input!
 
That is a good question. I bet it would be fine, but I would take it out if it were me.

Any word yet from spartan or randy's
 
I plan to take it out either way, don't need any more surprises.

I've communicated with the eBay seller, who contacted Randy's, who in turn has asked for additional info and pics of the spider gears and washers that we took out at the time of install. That's about all I've heard so far. Hoping to get it wrapped up soon, this was my DD, and an F150 makes a poor substitute, lol. I've been reading good things about Randy's, so here's hoping something good comes of it soon.
 
Ah, so it isn't Randy's directly... well I hope they take care of you. Wish they would just ask to deal direct with you and cut out the middle-man but guess you have follow the channels.

Good luck and keep us posted.

Oh, and on the install without removal, probably would have been fine. Since the SF has c-clips it is probably for locating the shaft ends to minimize slop. Basically keeps the shaft from moving in further than needed to seat the c-clip and holds slight pressure on them once installed to keep them from sliding in and out while driving.
 

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