RTH busted driver side CV axle (1 Viewer)

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TLC2013

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Hoping some folks can lend some advice, currently broke down on signal peak ohv trail. Driver side cv boot is torn leaking and there is substantial play in it. My plan is to return home in two wheel drive disconnecting the front drive shaft and limp home with rwd.

Anything advice on my plan of attack

Lock the centerr better diff first? Is this correct?

Much appreciated, thanks
 
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No error codes or water crossings. I have a full socket set. Starting the removal of the front drive shaft

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Hoping some folks can lend some advice, currently broke down on signal peak ohv trail. Driver side cv boot is torn leaking and there is substantial play in it. My plan is to return home in two wheel drive disconnecting the front drive shaft and limp home with rwd.

Anything advice on my plan of attack

Lock the centerr better diff first? Is this correct?

Below is my number if anyone is able to assis. Much appreciated, thanks
916-792-7395
Yes lock center diff and remove front shaft, if you can get it out of there without dropping the cross member. I can’t remember if that’s possible.

If things get bad up on the busted CV corner you might have to find a way to pull the axle shaft, star, cage, and ball bearings out of the outer CV. If it’s like most there is a clip in there that will make getting the shaft out pretty tough. You might know this but you can’t remove the outer CV end from the hub bearing because it holds everything including the hub in place.
 
Let's get you home safely.

Few questions
1) How far do you have to go?
2) Is it just a torn boot, or is the CV busted?
- If just a torn boot, driving on it is fine for a distance. Just don't go through any water or too much dust/dirt to avoid contamination. If you have tape, wrap it up a few times to keep as much grease in and contamination out.
 
Thanks to everyone for the help. The cv is busted for sure. No water to deal with. I am at the point of sliding out thr front drive shaft. Taking a break now. Spent the last 10 min trying to angle it out. Any tips?
 
I am about 3 Miles into the signal peak trail. And about 2 homes from home. Trying to limp back to the main road and can AAA tow home if needed
 
Headed back down the trail. Got the font drive shaft removed and the center diff lock engaged. So far so good.
Question, can I get into 4 hi with the center diff locked and get home on the freeway?
 
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Heaved back down the trail. Got the font drive shaft removed and the center diff lock engaged. So far so good.
Question, can I get into 4 hi with the center diff locked and get home on the freeway?

[Edit: I’m apparently wrong. Mea Culpa]
I wouldn’t be comfortable driving on a hard surface at higher speeds for distance with the CDL engaged.

You should be able to disengage and drive in what was 4Hi.
 
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Good job on the shaft!

Yes, you'll need to keep the center diff locked in high to put any power down without the front drive shaft. No concern for binding, again because your front shaft is out.
 
Hope you have uneventful drive home.

Was this driver error or hardware error? How high is you lift?
 
I wouldn’t be comfortable driving on a hard surface at higher speeds for distance with the CDL engaged.

You should be able to disengage and drive in what was 4Hi.

This is totally inaccurate.

With the front shaft out there will be no binding if driven at high speeds with CDL engaged. If it is disengaged and driven very far, again with the front shaft out, kiss that center diff and possibly the whole transfer case goodbye.

OP with CDL engaged and that shaft out, you probably won’t even get any error codes, other than your usual VSC disable that comes with CDL engagement. All power is getting sent straight to the rear axle.. so it will probably feel a little different through tight turns on the throttle but otherwise behave just fine.

And I’m pretty sure CDL is fine in high range.
 
This is totally inaccurate.

With the front shaft out there will be no binding if driven at high speeds with CDL engaged. If it is disengaged and driven very far, again with the front shaft out, kiss that center diff and possibly the whole transfer case goodbye.

OP with CDL engaged and that shaft out, you probably won’t even get any error codes, other than your usual VSC disable that comes with CDL engagement. All power is getting sent straight to the rear axle.. so it will probably feel a little different through tight turns on the throttle but otherwise behave just fine.

And I’m pretty sure CDL is fine in high range.

Should OP have removed the busted CV? Reason I'm asking, if the CV had sheered or had small pieces flying around diff side would it not end up messing up gears in the diff since it is still being rotated by the tire?
I've snapped an axle on a solid axle before and that almost screwed my diff up.. wondering if same outcome could happen.
 
Should OP have removed the busted CV? Reason I'm asking, if the CV had sheered or had small pieces flying around diff side would it not end up messing up gears in the diff since it is still being rotated by the tire?
I've snapped an axle on a solid axle before and that almost screwed my diff up.. wondering if same outcome could happen.
Most likely the failure was in the diff-end CV cup, and didn't harm the shaft going into the diff itself. Even if you somehow split the whole cup, I suspect it would crack open and leave the shaft itself intact. Possibly mess with the diff seal surface.. but things shouldn't get into the diff.

A solid axle is a different story, since the part of the axle that breaks is usually within the same housing as the diff itself. Everything can mix up.


OP's strategy of leave the axle in place and remove the driveshaft is the best method for most of these issues.. it lets the broken CV only take on the role of keeping all it's parts in place. It no longer has to transmit any torque to the wheel, so you should be able to drive.. understanding it might make minor problems within the CV worse, but realistically they will likely just have to buy an axle anyway.

If the shaft itself had broken things get more complicated, since it would likely want to flop around everywhere. That would require removing the shaft and leaving both cups in place, or finding some way to sleeve it to keep everything close to center. Driving at high speeds with this problem would make me much more nervous.
 
i believe it’s on the visor. I’ve run it at 55 in a cloudburst, and in the right kind of snow. I don’t recall if it dings or disengages or puts up a mid warning. Or if I was just nervous regarding speed And watching it. . .
 
Appreciate everyone here who helped out. I am never going to here the end of this from my wife lol. We made back safety to the highway. Quite eventful without four wheel drive, had to winch over a few obstacles as the rear wheels couldn't keep traction in the dirt and rocks.

Sliding out the front drive shaft was a nightmare. Removed the bolts connecting it to the t-case and front differential and also the zerk fitting, then compressed the driveshaft. This gave just enough room to squeeze the drive shaft out. Spent the next 45 min trying to Find the right angle to slide it out.

Kick to the crotch; AAA is unable to tow back the 120 miles, due to high demand and wild fires. Kept the speed under 55 and made it safety home. This is one for the books.

failure was completely user induced. Steep hill, Loose dirt, and rocky terrain. must have come down too hard on the spinning front wheels. Had traction control off after I couldn’t get up with the Crawl control. Should have picked a different route, live and learn, tough lesson.
 
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Picked up some pieces off the trail.

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