Rough Starting 3Fe

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TN_LandCruiser

TN_LandCruiser

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Looking for some advise here...I just bought my FJ80 and when I start my 3FE, it seems to take 4-5 cranks (seems like a lot) before it will turn over, then it will cough and sputter for just a couple seconds like its over choked before it will start running smoothly. It primarily does it when its cold, but it still takes 4-5 cranks to start up, even when its hot...just doesnt cough and sputter.

Also, occasionally, it will blow a small puff of what appears to be white/light blue smoke out the back on cold start-up.

I replaced the old Autolite plugs that had a tremendous amount of build-up on them with the OEM Denso's and have a OEM cap, rotor and wires on order...

Do you think this will resolve the issue or is it more extensive than a basic tune-up.
 
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if you want you can also replace the plug wires and dizzy cap. check the wires, if they are toyota they should have a date stamped on them...

the white puff scares me... does it go away? if not, check the under side of your oil filler cap for sludge. does the truck run hot at all? could be the head gasket but i doubt it.

also, check all the vacuum hoses. those get old and brittle.
 
I replaced the PCV valve with an aftermarket brand also...what exactly does that do anyway? Old one had some oil in it, but it moved freely.

The white smoke only lasts for a split second on start-up...and not all the time. It does not do it when its being driven...nor does it run hot. The cap does have some sludge...Im running Marvel Mystery oil in with my 5w-30...plan to add to ATF a few hundred miles prior to oil change.

The radiator fluid ( I cant call it water or antifreeze, looked like freakin' Mississippi mud. Tremendous amount of rust in it when I got it. Even after flushing running it while flushing, have not been able to get clean water. I added some fresh antifreeze and have been running it to try and break it up some more before flushing again...but again, does not run hot at all. Gauge is dead center of the dial.
 
Sounds like you might have a leaky valve seal. I would pull the head and have it worked over if this is the case. But try a oem pvc valve first must aftermarket ones suck.
 
TN_LandCruiser said:
I replaced the PCV valve with an aftermarket brand also...what exactly does that do anyway? Old one had some oil in it, but it moved freely.

The white smoke only lasts for a split second on start-up...and not all the time. It does not do it when its being driven...nor does it run hot. The cap does have some sludge...Im running Marvel Mystery oil in with my 5w-30...plan to add to ATF a few hundred miles prior to oil change.

The radiator fluid ( I cant call it water or antifreeze, looked like freakin' Mississippi mud. Tremendous amount of rust in it when I got it. Even after flushing running it while flushing, have not been able to get clean water. I added some fresh antifreeze and have been running it to try and break it up some more before flushing again...but again, does not run hot at all. Gauge is dead center of the dial.
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Why are you adding marvel and then atf later on?
 
Not to be unappreciative...but is that the only suggestion? Pull the head? I was hoping for some other alternatives/ideas...

Never considered rough starting to be a "pull the head" kind of problem...atleast as a first alternative. It runs fine once started...I do have a ticking noise that increases with motor rev...I assumed it was a lifter...someone else suggested a injector...but I dont think that has any effect on starting.
 
Toyota mech told me that the Marvel was not very aggressive and that the ATF for a short period of time would be more effective.
 
TN_LandCruiser said:
Not to be unappreciative...but is that the only suggestion? Pull the head? I was hoping for some other alternatives/ideas...

Never considered rough starting to be a "pull the head" kind of problem...atleast as a first alternative. It runs fine once started...I do have a ticking noise that increases with motor rev...I assumed it was a lifter...someone else suggested a injector...but I dont think that has any effect on starting.
Click to expand...
Well if it is a leaky valve seal then yes in the long run its better depending on the milage on your rig and work history.(no that ok) Yea valves just need adjusting. I had something similer weeks ago thats why i said buy a oem pvc valve first, cause my new aftermarket was junk.


No injecter would cause nothing of the such, at best black in color not blue. You can run thosands of miles on a leaky valve seal;) In the past on domestic i have put what the call oil burners (hotter running spark plugs is at it is).
 
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cruiser88 said:
Well if it is a leaky valve seal then yes in the long run its better depending on the milage on your rig and work history.(no that ok) Yea lifter valves just need adjusting. I had something similer weeks ago thats why i said buy a oem pvc valve first, cause my new aftermarket was junk.
Click to expand...

What exactly does the PCV valve do/effect? Just looked like a sliding piece of metal inside a tube...

Also, is there only one?
 
Just something i stole:D and yes there is only one.


blowby vapors that end up in an engine’s crankcase contain moisture as well as combustion byproducts and unburned fuel vapors. The crankcase is sealed to prevent the escape of these gases into the atmosphere, but the vapors must be removed to prevent oil contamination that leads to sludge formation. The positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) system siphons these vapors from the crankcase and routes them into the intake manifold so they can be reburned in the engine.
The main component in the PCV system is the PCV valve, which is usually located in the valve cover. A hose connects the PCV valve to the intake manifold. A second hose between the air cleaner and crankcase or other valve cover (V6 or V8 applications) provides fresh air to help flush the vapors out of the crankcase. Some engines have a separate air filter for the PCV breather hose located inside the air cleaner.
The PCV valve is a spring-loaded
 
Try the easiest things first, I WOULD NOT PULL THE HEAD yet. Have you replaced fuel filter, fuel system cleaners? ie BG44K, redline, seafoam. There could be alot of crap built up in there if its been along time since its been cleaned. Hopefully its just some built up spider webs that you can easily clear out of there. Oh, and what is the intake hose condition? Good luck

J
 
Ah, no...good call...didnt think about the fuel filter. Regarding fuel system cleaners...are you just referring to adding it to the gas? If not, where do you introduce it to the system?

Air Intake is fine.
 
Before you do any thing crazy like pull the head, Check the cold start injector. I have seen this many times. When stuck open, it will drip fuel until the pressure runs out, flooding the open cylinders and fouling spark plugs. You will have to crank it until fuel pressure is back up and the fuel clears the cylinders. It is usually worse on hot restarts. Sometimes the EGR gasket below the cold start injector, on the upper intake, is wet.
 
Before you do any thing crazy like pull the head, Check the cold start injector. I have seen this many times. When stuck open, it will drip fuel until the pressure runs out, flooding the open cylinders and fouling spark plugs. You will have to crank it until fuel pressure is back up and the fuel clears the cylinders. It is usually worse on hot restarts. Sometimes the EGR gasket below the cold start injector, on the upper intake, is wet.

Is there any way to fix the cold start injector if it is stuck open? My 3fe is acting similarly: kinda slow to start in the morning and runs rough just for a second but after that it runs fine. Thanks
 
Cold start injector

I tested mine by unbolting it and inserted it into a clear beer :beer: bottle. During a cold start it should squirt into the bottle during start up. After warm up it should not drip or squirt any more. I found mine to not squirt on cold start causing a rough and hard to start situation. Solution...I found one from SOR for about $75 used, works great. 92 fj80 w/ 280K.
 
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