ROTW: Fiona

[GLTHFJ60]

the problem i am having is when i ordered the kit i apparently ordered the flat pitman arm VS. the dropped arm like i was wanting, TG said they would swap em for me if i shipped it back but that was a year ago and i have not done it yet. need to contact them and see if they are still willing to do this or not.

now the bigger problem is the 60 series factory pitman arm has a larger bore than the drag link end does on the TG kit so much so that the nut will bottom out before the end is even snug at all.

If i can get TG to swap my pitman arms they will match and problem solved, If I cannot i need to find a solution.
so any ideas on how to make the 60 arm fit the end i have now? im pulling a total blank on this and would rather not have to try and track down a TRE with the same thread pitch as the one used by TG and then also having it match the pitman.

Call Luke at 4x4Labs. He makes a cone spacer to fit over the 80 TRE to make it the same thread pitch as the 60 TRE so you can use your stock pitman arm. It's not listed on his website so you have to call directly. All of that is outlined somewhere in my thread.

 

[CruisinFJ60]

Call Luke at 4x4Labs. He makes a cone spacer to fit over the 80 TRE to make it the same thread pitch as the 60 TRE so you can use your stock pitman arm. It's not listed on his website so you have to call directly. All of that is outlined somewhere in my thread.

i saw where you mentioned getting it but no pictures...

anyhow, are the 80 series TRE's not larger than the 60 series?

the issue im having is the TRE is so much smaller than the hole that i can slide it all the way in and past where it should be by hand and it is still loose side to side and way beyond the point of the threads.

 

[kling-on]

1.) Joel had asked if the steering linkage was large enough to fit a 60 as trail gear had told him no... I set linkage visually close, then unscrewed one of the ends out to find there was about an inch and a half of thread contact still inside the tie rod.
2.) here is one of the drag link and tie rod, i also did the same on the drag link and it has about an inch of contact inside.
3.) i used a flash here...

Wow good to hear ... Keep the pics coming

 

[BlueCruiser84]

I think the taper on the 80 series end is just smaller. The whole thing itself is bigger.


I have a question about this martack mod since I am still waiting on parts to show up for my front end. I just put some tacks on the diff side splines of my axle shafts and then eliminate some C-clips and I don't have to F#*& around with pulling all that knuckle stuff apart? Could you/anyone enlighten me a little further on this?

Also, damn good progress. You zipped by my build like I was standing still. Looks good.

 

[CruisinFJ60]

Wow good to hear ... Keep the pics coming

Yes sir, i thought of you and cleaned my hands off enough to take pics just for you.

I think the taper on the 80 series end is just smaller. The whole thing itself is bigger.


I have a question about this martack mod since I am still waiting on parts to show up for my front end. I just put some tacks on the diff side splines of my axle shafts and then eliminate some C-clips and I don't have to F#*& around with pulling all that knuckle stuff apart? Could you/anyone enlighten me a little further on this?

Also, damn good progress. You zipped by my build like I was standing still. Looks good.

sounds like the cone wont work for me then as i have no contact. maybe its a mini end... they are smaller arnt they? guess i can ask em tomorrow when i call em to see if they will still exchange my pitman arm, and like i said if they will that will solve all of this, we will see.

Right.

on the tacks you want them between 1-1/2" and 1-3/8" from the very end of the diff side, you tack between the splines and grind the tacks flush with the splines. on both of my shafts the high point came in right at 1-7/16" so right in the middle of the recommended area. I also put one tack on one side then another 180* from that then another in between for over kill. you really and truly only need to do it in 1 spot but i did it the way i did it to help distribute the load (whish is very very little) and more so as a fail safe in case one didnt have a good contact and somehow came loose.

now the biggest advantage to this is the clip inside of the birf you eliminate, so if on the trail or just in general you dont need to mess with it anymore and when i pulled my short side apart it broke on the way out and on the long side i sheered it pitting it together. you are able to pull it all apart without tearing it all down by simply removing the c clip in the hub housing even if you havent done the mar tack but if you do the mar tack (and it is in the right place) you wont have to have that clip either so that is 1 less seal you are breaking open and 6 less bolts per side to pull off, and less places for dirt and crap to get in at. especially when on the trail and you are having to pull a birf or axle in the dirt or mud.

as far as flying past you had Kling-on not got me the birf i never woulda touched my truck and hd you not started your thread when you did i wouldnt have went ahead and tore it all apart. but im glad i did! Ive been wanting to do this since right after i got my wagon, but i wasted money on the lift as i thought i would be happy with it (and i was for a while and it flexed amazing for a SUA rig and definitely better than most ive seen) but it wasnt what i was truly wanting inside. now i think i will be ahppy again for hopefully longer than i was before. next time i make a major change to my suspension (other than adding tons or something) it will be for coils or most likely coil overs to make her like a slinky on the rocks.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

i saw where you mentioned getting it but no pictures...

anyhow, are the 80 series TRE's not larger than the 60 series?

the issue im having is the TRE is so much smaller than the hole that i can slide it all the way in and past where it should be by hand and it is still loose side to side and way beyond the point of the threads.

The 80 series taper is smaller than the 60 taper, even though the end itself is beefier. The cone will work for you. I had a picture of it in the last page of my thread when I had to take it out of the old arm.

If you have an 80 series TRE, then the cone washer will allow you to run that in your stock pitman arm.

 

[CruisinFJ60]

The 80 series taper is smaller than the 60 taper, even though the end itself is beefier. The cone will work for you. I had a picture of it in the last page of my thread when I had to take it out of the old arm.

If you have an 80 series TRE, then the cone washer will allow you to run that in your stock pitman arm.

man i feel like such a retard! i just read through that like yesterday

and the side by side you showed is exactly what mine does. Ill put in the call tomorrow, I do appreciate you lookin out.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

man i feel like such a retard! i just read through that like yesterday

and the side by side you showed is exactly what mine does. Ill put in the call tomorrow, I do appreciate you lookin out.

Anytime man! Now start tearing that rear axle out!!!

 

[BlueCruiser84]

on the tacks you want them between 1-1/2" and 1-3/8" from the very end of the diff side, you tack between the splines and grind the tacks flush with the splines. on both of my shafts the high point came in right at 1-7/16" so right in the middle of the recommended area. I also put one tack on one side then another 180* from that then another in between for over kill. you really and truly only need to do it in 1 spot but i did it the way i did it to help distribute the load (whish is very very little) and more so as a fail safe in case one didnt have a good contact and somehow came loose.

now the biggest advantage to this is the clip inside of the birf you eliminate, so if on the trail or just in general you dont need to mess with it anymore and when i pulled my short side apart it broke on the way out and on the long side i sheered it pitting it together. you are able to pull it all apart without tearing it all down by simply removing the c clip in the hub housing even if you havent done the mar tack but if you do the mar tack (and it is in the right place) you wont have to have that clip either so that is 1 less seal you are breaking open and 6 less bolts per side to pull off, and less places for dirt and crap to get in at. especially when on the trail and you are having to pull a birf or axle in the dirt or mud.

as far as flying past you had Kling-on not got me the birf i never woulda touched my truck and hd you not started your thread when you did i wouldnt have went ahead and tore it all apart. but im glad i did! Ive been wanting to do this since right after i got my wagon, but i wasted money on the lift as i thought i would be happy with it (and i was for a while and it flexed amazing for a SUA rig and definitely better than most ive seen) but it wasnt what i was truly wanting inside. now i think i will be ahppy again for hopefully longer than i was before. next time i make a major change to my suspension (other than adding tons or something) it will be for coils or most likely coil overs to make her like a slinky on the rocks.

Hmm, well I will have to look into the Martack further. Thanks for the info.

I'm glad my thread was an inspiration to you. I love watching springovers unfold and yours is proving to be a good one. Keep it up!

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Quick question on the martack mod, now that I'm thinking about it. What keeps the birf from sliding out into the hub farther than it's supposed to? Do the outer birf splines bottom out on the hub gear or does the top of the birf bottom out on the spindle bushing? Does that put excessive pressure on the hub gear or wear the bushing faster?

 

[CruisinFJ60]

Quick question on the martack mod, now that I'm thinking about it. What keeps the birf from sliding out into the hub farther than it's supposed to? Do the outer birf splines bottom out on the hub gear or does the top of the birf bottom out on the spindle bushing? Does that put excessive pressure on the hub gear or wear the bushing faster?

birf will hit spindle bushing, and wear will be the same as that is the same way it was held in place before.

 

[CruisinFJ60]

I'm glad my thread was an inspiration to you. I love watching springovers unfold and yours is proving to be a good one. Keep it up!

no problem man and thanks.

 

[CruisinFJ60]

well i got it mostly finished up today, enough so that i was able to take it for a spin around the block.

need to get the bushing adapter for drag link, rear drive shaft has a u joint ready to cut loose, no shocks, brakes ned to be re bled ect. so it wasnt the best ride but it did drive its self.

1.) jacked it up and got the rear axle out from under it
2.) bling bling
3.) set the perches on top of the axle got the weight of the truck on it and set the pinion angle.

 

[CruisinFJ60]

1.) i dont remember why i took this picture but here it is.
2.) sometimes i do a decent job at welding when i pay a little more attention
3.) other side

 

[CruisinFJ60]

1.) welded inside of the perches on both front and rear and both sides so i should never have to worry about it coming off.
2.) other side
3.) Finished!!

it is only on 33's in the pictures but it is way to high for its own good right now. ill be pulling some leafs out of the rear for sure if i dont go ahead and toss the stock FJ62 springs under it front and rear to get it lower. Not 100% sure what ill do just yet but i will be doing something.

 

[CruisinFJ60]

1.) just got back from driving it
2.) more
3.) nother

 

[CruisinFJ60]

1.) didnt get e brake hooked back up correctly yet either so thats what the brick is for.
2.) freaking huge...
3.) something i have in the back of the 60 for the 40....

 

[cruiser guy]

dude! nice job looks great!!

 

[CruisinFJ60]

front frame height...

it is tollerable i guess but still about 5 inches higher than i would ideally like, much less being on 33's it will increase when the tires get taller. for every 2 inches in tire height gained it will raise the height 1 inch.

 

[CruisinFJ60]

rear frame height...

way to high especially since on only little bitty 33's something will have to be done.