ROTARY INJECTION PUMP RE-TIMING QUESTION (1 Viewer)

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Sep 8, 2009
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Location
Temecula, California
Hello you guys, I have a leaking seal below Throttle Linkage on this injection pump pictured where my finger is pointed. The pump is on my 3B. If we pull the injection pump to replace the seal then is it hard to re-time the pump when we put it back in? Somebody mentioned a Key Way and that it just goes back in. We are not real familiar with diesel injection pumps so dont want to get it out an then not properly get it back in. Any help on the subject would be great. Thanks. Dave
dave83injectionpump.jpg
 
To replace that seal, you should be able to pull the top cover off the pump (4x5mm Allen screws) without removing the pump, and without upsetting timing.
The governor mechanism in the pump is linked to the throttle arm by a spring under the cover.

Removing and re-attaching the governor/throttle spring will be the most difficult part of the job, particularly with the inlet manifold in place.
I'd avoid removing the pump for this, re-fitting the pump can be potentially problematic

Top cover has an o-ring seal where it meets the body of the pump, so re-sealing afterwards should be no problem
 
Thanks so much MUDGUDGEON for taking the time to answer in detail and to point out the Bosch Rebuild info as well. Question: I know you mention to avoid removing the pump. We will take your advice but what about the KEY WAY ? Is that False info that I received regarding Key Way? What part of the job ( when the pump is out ) is so problematic when putting it back in? Just curious.

Dave
 
@fjfjfj
Ok, so this is from experience with a 1HD-T. Getting the timing gears, and pump positioned correctly is problematic. Sounds simple enough if you're handy with a spanner.
If not installed in the correct sequence, and carefully aligned, you can end up with a lateral load on the pump shaft which can chew out the shaft seal, which can then leak diesel into the crankcase.
Honestly, I don't know how similar your engine is.
To me, removing the inlet manifold, and top cover of the pump is non-invasive/non-critical. Removing the timing case, timing gears and pump is. Plus it's a lot of work!
 
Thanks for the detailed explanation. Will follow your advice and remove IM and go through the top. Appreciate it. Sounds like you know what the heck your doing, unlike us. LOL. Another reason for us to keep it simple. Dave
 
Beno, I remember what you said in the other thread. My main concern is finding someone, once I get it rebuilt, to put it back in there properly. Everything I read about is saying how delicate this pump in regards to putting it back in and retiming it. I have been looking around here in my area but nobody wants to mess with it. My mechanic says he will repair the leak now that he does not have to pull it out. So, if I can find someone who can do the full rebuild AND get it back in there properly then I will go that route. If not then I will replace that seal. I at least have to stop the leak. I hear ya though. I am not going El-Cheapo. Just want someone who knows what the F,,,, their doing to mess around with it. Thanks man for your assist. Wish you were around here. I would pay you to do all the work. :) Anybody know anybody between San Diego and Los Angeles who will do this job? I will contact them if I get a solid lead. Thanks, Dave
 
You are wasting time and energy band-aiding things.

I agree up to a point. it could be the first sign of impending doom**, but if a simple fix can save $1000s why wouldn't you give it a crack?

Know one I know goes to a surgeon to deal with a mosquito bite :meh:
A pump rebuild in Aus can be anything from $2k to $3k+, plus remove and replace cost.
What's a rebuild cost you NA guys?


** can't be though. Trump took that title already.
 
I have had inline-six IP's rebuilt for $1500 in the states, Bosch pumps. I used a place in Salt Lake City, Utah who did an excellent job but I did have to source a few parts on my own from Japan.

Considering the resources in SoCal I see it being no issues at all if you find the right shop. There must be dozens of them in SoCal.

Cheers
 
I have had inline-six IP's rebuilt for $1500 in the states, Bosch pumps. I used a place in Salt Lake City, Utah who did an excellent job but I did have to source a few parts on my own from Japan.

Considering the resources in SoCal I see it being no issues at all if you find the right shop. There must be dozens of them in SoCal.

Cheers

Not sure CA is real friendly to diesel engines. Believe a year or so ago a woman had a BJ4X that was driving down from CA. Engine has issues in CA. Believe she ended selling it not running because she couldn't get it repaired. Main reason I stick with my F engines. Besides being able to work on them have collected my own junk yard of spare parts.
 
I deal with John Carter at Turbo Diesel and Electric Systems in Forest Park, GA.

My rotary IP rebuild was about $1100. Very reasonable. They know the NipponDenso/Bosch units well.

And don't have to deal with it again for another 10-15 years.
 
Beno, I will use that place in Ga. BUT,,,,,,,,,,,Could you please let me know about getting it back in there properly once its rebuilt? That is my main concern, not getting it rebuilt but getting it back in there properly. Do you know anyone in Southern California that can put that pump back in there and re-time it? Thanks for any suggestions. I will pass along everything to my mechanic if I can some instruction on getting the pump put back in and properly retimed so that I can drive it without concern for the future. Thanks. D
 

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