A frame mounted roll cage is a must for saftey, question is how? Do I cut holes in the new tub, and find a way to seal aaround the bars. this would allow the tub to flex. Or use flange plates on either side of the body panels. What is the best answer, anyone? ???
roll cage (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter northernfj40
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brian
SILVER Star
imo frame mounted cages are so over kill in most(but not all ) cases.
unless you're doing high speed runs the average rock monster does'nt need a frame mount.
going over 1-5 time moving less than 5 mph in my book does'nt justify the work required to "cleanly" make a frame mounted cage.(i've gone 2x over@45-55mph,landed right side and drove it home)
the best in my thinking would be to have holes with the tubing comiing through the floor.not the flange idea.
unless you're doing high speed runs the average rock monster does'nt need a frame mount.
going over 1-5 time moving less than 5 mph in my book does'nt justify the work required to "cleanly" make a frame mounted cage.(i've gone 2x over@45-55mph,landed right side and drove it home)
the best in my thinking would be to have holes with the tubing comiing through the floor.not the flange idea.
The biggest question with regards to frame mounting is the integrety of your existing body....add some rust in and a frame mount is a nice safety factor.
I used sandwhich plates for my main and front hoop and the rear stringer is a custom mount. The top and bottom plates should be different sizes so as to not create a shear point in the sheet metal.
IMO, it is minimal expense to add in the frame tie in's and with the minimal weight gain it's a worthwhile safety point.
Do you need it? 99% of wheelers only roll on their side or once over, and 95% of those are so slow you feel it's taking forever. The overbuild factor is for that one time you roll hard, when your running a ridge, and the bottom is 4-5 rolls away. I've done those and have come close to rolling...I was not scared cause I trusted my cage design and mounts.
I like my cages to be removable, for future bodywork needs, cleaning purposes, or should you change your cage design and want to remove your existing one.
I used sandwhich plates for my main and front hoop and the rear stringer is a custom mount. The top and bottom plates should be different sizes so as to not create a shear point in the sheet metal.
IMO, it is minimal expense to add in the frame tie in's and with the minimal weight gain it's a worthwhile safety point.
Do you need it? 99% of wheelers only roll on their side or once over, and 95% of those are so slow you feel it's taking forever. The overbuild factor is for that one time you roll hard, when your running a ridge, and the bottom is 4-5 rolls away. I've done those and have come close to rolling...I was not scared cause I trusted my cage design and mounts.
I like my cages to be removable, for future bodywork needs, cleaning purposes, or should you change your cage design and want to remove your existing one.
