Rock Warrior Wheel Ring... (2 Viewers)

[g rant]

Is it possible to refinish one that has scuffs or scratch marks? Looking at a set of used wheels and the rings are going to need some TLC. I looked up the part and for four new rings it would cost ~$1k, so hoping for a cheaper option. Thanks all!

 

[TimCFJ40]

Sure, they're just a piece of machined then polished aluminum.
You could attempt to buff/sand out any scratches and polish back to new (if they're not too deep), you could sand and paint them, or have them powder coated. It's also possible that you could have them fixed by a company that repairs alloy rims.

How bad are the rings currently? Personally I don't worry about the shape of the rings as they protect the tire beads and the rim itself from further damage, and I do off-road my truck.

 

[g rant]

Thanks for the reply!


Pictures below:

These will see 99.9% pavement so I’d like them to look as new as possible.

 

[lx200inAR]

Anything is possible with enough money, but honestly seems like a weird goal. Pretty much all RWs are over 10 years old and many have been used hard at this point. Most have probably already lived 2 lives, once on a Tundra and once on a 200.

keep in mind as well, that there is a 50/50 chance those rings won’t even come off without some serious surgery.

 

[jlm43]

It's going to be very hard to make those look new. You can scuff them up and paint them but that corrosion will show up again in a short time. If you remove all of the corrosion to try and make sure it doesn't come back anytime soon, you'll be so deep into the ring that it will be noticeable.

 

[TimCFJ40]

I'd try a good aluminum polish with an orbital buffer, and you could make them look much better. You might even start with some fine grit sandpaper first. You won't get the curb/rock damage, but you could clean up the white spidery looking oxidation. Or, remove the rings and don't run them. I've seen a few folks go without the rings and they look pretty good to me.

 

[gasman4u]

I'd try a good aluminum polish with an orbital buffer, and you could make them look much better. You might even start with some fine grit sandpaper first. You won't get the curb/rock damage, but you could clean up the white spidery looking oxidation. Or, remove the rings and don't run them. I've seen a few folks go without the rings and they look pretty good to me.

This. I would start with something like 2000 grit sandpaper if you're going this route first. If they're matte aluminum you'll need to buff at some point, but you will want to knock off the oxidation first. give it a shot!

 

[RET2]

But,but Overlanders and such dig scars. Just make sure they're higher than parking curbs in the Malls.

 

[jlm43]

What’s on those rings isn’t scars, it’s all corrosion and goes deeper than what it looks like. Media blasting them would get the best long term results.

 

[Gr8Daneger]

If you’re dead set on keeping the wheels, take them to a wheel repair shop and have them all redone. Probably going to be about $1,000, but you can pick your powder coat colors and they will look brand new. It looks like there is pitting on one of the wheels too.

 

[g rant]

Thank you all!

I think the plan will be to purchase a nicer set so as to not have to worry about the nuances of removing and repairing the rings.

 

[turbo8]

Thank you all!

I think the plan will be to purchase a nicer set so as to not have to worry about the nuances of removing and repairing the rings.

I'm probably going to make updated rings that will allow the following:

• Use of more standard zinc coated hex hardware($10 for 60 bolts, will require low profile 13mm socket~$10)
• Reduce the weight by 20%
• Allow more room for air deflators
• Spots for more valve stems
• Cheaper than OEM ~$150 per ring
• Option to use stainless studs and jam nuts to secure ring (pretty expensive though~$175)

People that go in the mud might not want the pockets in the back, they probably will fill with mud over time.
Open to design changes

 

[nwfl4runner]

Any way to open the ring up with drain holes on the front? Those little hidden slits don’t really do all that much, but larger visible openings might look cool

 

[turbo8]

Any way to open the ring up with drain holes on the front? Those little hidden slits don’t really do all that much, but larger visible openings might look cool

Yeah, I think so. Like extra holes instead of the slots?

 

[nwfl4runner]

Yeah, I think so. Like extra holes instead of the slots?

Yeah I’m biased as I run this ring and this ring on all my beadlocks, but I like the look and it drains great

 

[turbo8]

Yeah I’m biased as I run this ring and this ring on all my beadlocks, but I like the look and it drains great

Gotcha, I can do something similar. I might make it built into the valve stem clearance cutouts. Maybe increase them from 6 to 12.

 

[GTV]

I’m not a beadlook fan.

 

[bloc]

I was pretty sure these aren’t just polished aluminum or they would have lost their shine a long time ago, like the center caps. Mine appear to have some kind of clear coat on them. And the corrosion so often seen is moving along under the clear.

 

[Markuson]

I’m not a beadlook fan.

View attachment 3596180

They aren’t bead-locks. They are stem protectors…and effective ones at that.

 

[jjtrou2072]

I'm probably going to make updated rings that will allow the following:

• Use of more standard zinc coated hex hardware($10 for 60 bolts, will require low profile 13mm socket~$10)
• Reduce the weight by 20%
• Allow more room for air deflators
• Spots for more valve stems
• Cheaper than OEM ~$150 per ring
• Option to use stainless studs and jam nuts to secure ring (pretty expensive though~$175)

People that go in the mud might not want the pockets in the back, they probably will fill with mud over time.
Open to design changes

I would pick up a set.